rcnewb2004

What i really mean is... i have never seen the gears for sale on the market for the Evo 5.

skytrooper

Alright progressing, taking it easy though, one question regarding the very rear suspension mount (E 1), is it correct for it to be longer than the inner suspension mount (1 XA) near the spur gear? I guess i'ts deliberately so for giving it toe in??

The problem i have with that is that when i firmly mount the rear suspension mount the suspension arm will not move freely, only when i tighten the suspension mount firmly it will not move as freely. When i leave it slightly loose the suspension arm is as free as can get. Is this a problem?? Does everyone have this problem? Will it loosen out over time? Should i rather get mounts of the same length for neutral wheel alignment?

Rcnewb2004, thanks for the encouragement, i'm moving ahead and am focussed on completing this machine

Thanks.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Leave the rear blocks as is. If you have neutral arm alignment, you'll 1) remove all rear toe-in (the rear hubs are 0deg), and 2) take away rear traction. Also, if you go with straight arms, you'll actually make it tighter (pythag's law... more of an angle in the arms, will make the pin length longer)

Just lightly sand the wishbones on the inner hinge pin area, until they stop binding.
Just to help, you can change the blocks to alter the toe-in on the rear.

HiH
Ed

rcnewb2004

skytrooper,

i really like the evo 5, but i have only ran it about 30 times in about 2 years... i miss my car... i am apart from it when i am at work (like 10,000km).

i second Tryhard's advice. Definitely screw things down equally tight (well try to at least make sure the "feel" is the same for both left and right. The arms should move up and down freely without binding. Sanding the arms VERY slightly is good, i don't remember how... but when i built mine... it didn't bind... i used the titanium nitrate (nitride?) coated shafts. They are very good.

Another thing with screwing things down... is if u have metal to metal connections... add a very very very small drop of thread lock to keep the vibrations from losening the screws. I know some people will say metal to metal will cause binding... but i have lost too many titanium screws at the bottom of my chassis already...

becareful not to put too much threadlock... otherwise... u will never be able to unscrew the screws... causing even bigger problems!

skytrooper

see next post

skytrooper

Thank you both, I do no like sanding, maybe i should leave the ceramic grease and use some good 3 in one oil to get it to stop binding. otherwise just leave it like it is, maybe i'll sand if i can get myself to do it.

Thanks

skytrooper

Hi, my evo is almost complete, just a question regarding the front stabilizer, does the extra 2mm needto be cut off, or should i use the open ball link arms on the front stabiliser, unlike stated in the manual which shows to use the grey closed ones instead of the open black one's?

skytrooper

Duplicate post, please see above post.

skytrooper

Well i assume i need to cut off the 2mil on the stabilizer tips, the linkages will not go onto it if 2mil is sticking out, if anyone disagrees, please let me know, hopfully i won't do the wrong thing by cutting them?
Thanks.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

easiest way... just cut a small amount of material off the ball cup. either that or drill a hole in it.... much easier than cutting the roll bar.

HiH
Ed

rcnewb2004

Do not cut the stabilizer! odds are that you will bend the stabilizer in the process... and make things look ugly... cut the cup, much easier.

skytrooper

Too late i have already cut the stabilzer, the ball links were already added so it was easy just to cut the 2mm off each end, thanks anyway, finally all that's left to do is to assemnle the dampers and add them to the chassis. Hope
nothing unexpected pops up after assembly...

Thanks

rcnewb2004

put holes in the cups anyway... because u may want to change to different stabilizers... and i guess... unless u like cutting the other stabilizers short...

skytrooper

Thanks, are the stock stabilizers crappy? The yellow ones look nice i must say, but i have another problem now, just as i thought everything is now sorted out i realize that i can't seem to get all the air out of the damper oil, moving the piston slowly like indicated in the manual does not take out all the air bubbles,
does anyone else have the same problem? I'm using the soft dampening oil. will they somehow rise to the top and dissapear if i leave the damper open for say a couple hours, or should i just live with the little air bubbles in it?

rcnewb2004

whether a stabilizer is "crappy" or not depends on what track u use it on. Each stabilizer (blue, red, yellow normally for tamiya) is a different thickness, used for different types of surfaces and tracks.

Depending on your racing level, those bubbles can mean nothing or everything. Normally, i move the piston up and down a few times to get the bubbles to come out... then i let the pistons just sit for an hr... before putting the plastic seal on.

Since i am just a parking lot racer at best, small amount of bubbles don't mean anything to me. If you want to get anal, you can place your pistons in a vacuum pump and suck all the bubbles out from them, but i think that is unnecessary for lower levels of racing. Better focus on driving than spending cash to perfect the details.