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Old 01-26-2006, 02:40 AM
  #13786  
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2 cheap ways to get faster laps.
1: practice and do NOT hit anything.
2: work with setup.
Both cost nothing. Other then that you will have to spend money on stuff that will do nothing if you dont master the first 2 listed above.
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Old 01-26-2006, 08:35 AM
  #13787  
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Originally Posted by wannabe_racer
ok, this will be my first time into on-road racing, ive got a traxxas bandit that i bash, but would like a good rc car, that comes with most of the stuff needed, (MSC/ESC, Motor, Body, Electronics) is the Pro 4 good for that (seen that it doesnt come with lots of gear) or should i get these:
http://www.southeastrc.com/Items/Std...ookup=LOSA0255 (Not sure if comes with gear)
http://www.southeastrc.com/Items/Std...ookup=ASC30110
(Was looking at that before
or get the cars that the blokes at the track use?

Thats all, any good offers are welcome
The start up costs of this hobby are crazy. Try and buy used high end stuff from a trusted seller if you can. Preferably something less than 6 months old. You might get lots of spare parts included which you'll need. Also get a car that you can find parts easily for- stuff your local shop carries. Starting out you will go through many many parts. Next year or 2 you can easily get the latest greatest chassis and convert your car. Hopefully by then you'll be more skilled to justify running the latest
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Old 01-26-2006, 04:15 PM
  #13788  
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Originally Posted by kyracer
buffing the glues? Hmm what polish would you use to smooth out the glue surface?

I have some old foams and will try shoe goo and epoxi on to see the results.
I was thinking epoxi with less harding.

Just use CA glue (preferably Proline's thin type) on the sidewalls. Apply a coat to your new foams, straight from the box . Let it dry, then, apply one more. Allow the tires to dry, then, true them down to your starting size on a tire truer and use a file to round the edges and give the tire a low profile. They'll have a nice hard ring right below the tire's edge.
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:52 PM
  #13789  
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Thanks dawg, I done some test and it seem that CA glue done the best. The 2nd coat after drying is a great idea.

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:14 AM
  #13790  
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Should I use a spool or one way for this new track?
pics http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...page=316&pp=30 Post #9466 Post #9475

video of the track http://rapidshare.de/files/11926191/Mvi_0957.avi.html

Thats not me driving btw. local racers driving.
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:56 AM
  #13791  
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New to this stuff and was wondering was hop-ups does the hara have over the regular pro 4?
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:06 AM
  #13792  
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Originally Posted by KillWency
Should I use a spool or one way for this new track?
pics http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...page=316&pp=30 Post #9466 Post #9475

video of the track http://rapidshare.de/files/11926191/Mvi_0957.avi.html

That's not me driving btw. local racers driving.
I would try a spool,a few sections look like you could use your brakes to your advantage when racing with guys running one ways..
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Old 01-29-2006, 03:54 PM
  #13793  
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I think the Hara has:
Included Spool
Delrin outdrives
Modified top-deck
Alu servo mount
Updated motor mount(open ended)
Alu spur adapter shaft (now one-piece)
Improved diff nut
Upgraded shocks(fluorine coated)

hope that helps..
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Old 01-29-2006, 05:24 PM
  #13794  
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Originally Posted by RSR
New to this stuff and was wondering was hop-ups does the hara have over the regular pro 4?
According to the HPI website:

Hara Edition Pro 4 features:
* 2.25mm upper deck provides more grip with the same front to rear stiffness for improved track performance. The included cone washers and o-rings improve chassis durability.

* Competition aluminum threaded shock set with fluorine coated shock body, new smoother o-ring, and new pistons provides extra smooth action for improved suspension performance.

* Precision machined aluminum servo mounts for extra durability.

* Heavy duty, self lubricating ball cups for increased strength and smoother suspension movement.

* Included Front Solid Axle Set (spool) for more stable acceleration out of corners and during heavy braking. Precision machined from light weight aluminum for quick acceleration and higher top speed.

* Additional set of pivot blocks and spacers provide a wide range of tuning options to accommodate different track conditions and layouts.

* Integrated differential nut design adds strength and prevents the differential from loosening up.

* Delrin outdrive set to reduce drivetrain friction for higher performance and increased efficiency.

* Machined aluminum motor mount with open ended design for easier motor installation and removal.

* Precision machined lightweight input shafts for quicker acceleration and throttle response.

* Integrated spur gear mount adds rigidity and prevents spur gear flex.

All this and more data can be yours at the HPI website at http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

Ira
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Old 01-29-2006, 06:32 PM
  #13795  
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Has anyone tried the HPI bearing adapters that let you switch to 5x8x2.5 bearings for the axles (i.e., the bearings go in the steering blocks (front) and hubs (rear)). I just got a set and am about to try them, but wanted to hear if there were any nasty surprises awaiting me.

Ira
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:17 PM
  #13796  
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Default any good carpet set ups going to snowbirds

any body got any good carpet set ups going to birds
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:49 PM
  #13797  
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I have been snapping diff screws in mod. Rigth at the head. Any one find one that holds up?
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:57 PM
  #13798  
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I was having that problem in stock. Apparently the AE TC3 ones work but I was snapping them too. The only response I was given was "Don't crash!!"
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:42 PM
  #13799  
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
I have been snapping diff screws in mod. Rigth at the head. Any one find one that holds up?
Try using HPI Diff screw and heavy duty nut part number #73522. I hope this would help.
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:48 PM
  #13800  
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
I have been snapping diff screws in mod. Rigth at the head. Any one find one that holds up?
The TC4 screw and nut are supposed to fit and be stronger.

Good luck.

Ira
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