fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

i plan on running it on carpet... but i think we should talk about this stuff on the cyclone's thread not the pro4s so if you want to talk about the car go here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63658

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

you should post your question on the Cyclone specific thread..you'll probably get more answeres there...
I for sure will be running the cyclone on carpet. going to have a 3mm+ chassis made and upperdeck just for carpet racing. like the pro4... the cyclone should have a complete diff available. should be the same front and rear.

cyclone

o dear, last time i raced my pro4, something bad happend to my rear diff.

wat happen was it was slightly slipping or sumthings and so it put it on for about 3 inspection laps and wen i brought it of i realised that my rear diff ad locked its like a spool now because as far as im aware its melted and the diff balls have melted into the beval gear
only thing is i had just rebuilt the diff before that race so i must have done something so i thought that i must have been lose which then caused it to heat up and melt
am i right?

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

when you rebuild a diff you usually want to put in a new lock nut. that might have been the case, the lock nut was locking and the diff came loose or you just my not have rebuilt it right. take it apart and if you dont see anything wrong just rebuildit again. o and make sure you put in new diff balls too, when you rebuild a diff

DOMOisCOOL

Shameless plug:

Selling my Pro 4. Look here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80707

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

Anyone have any special tips when it comes to building shocks? ie the initial assembley of the orings around the shock shaft etc

Thanks

chr15tophe

Yeah righty o, replacing carbide diff balls everytime you rebuild a diff, you must have some money, the reason there carbide doesnt wear out that quickly

billtc3

how can i stop the front wheels from "chattering" when on full lock (left or right) and full power?

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

Make sure your CVD's are smooth. Take them apart and clean them, make sure none of the parts are binding or the pins are tweaked, and lube them with some moly grease. With the parts dry the pins should fit easily into the pin holes in the cup but should have enough play that the axel flops up and down easily and does not bind at all. If the pins bind in the drive cup you can usually just take the pin with a pair of pliers and *lightly* work it at an angle to open up the hole slightly enough to give it more play.

Also make sure there is not too much play, if the pins have worn the cup holes oval you'll chatter. Ensure your bearings are free and clean, spin easily and don't bind, your CVD's should not be bent, and your wheels should spin true and not be broken or massivly out of balance.

Yeah that is a bit excessive. You should replace the parts that have failed when you rebuild a diff. Unless you run your diff all year until it's nothing but chunks inside and feels like a ratchet head when you spin it, you can typically just clean the parts and debris out and reassemble. Balls tend to outlast the diff rings, and the nylon nut should last awhile as well. When your diff no longer holds a setting, thats when you know to replace it. Most people take apart and clean their diffs every couple of races, imagine the cost involved if you were replacing all the parts each time. Yikes.

billtc3

thanx desolas. everything is clean and free. i think the problem is that the cup holes have got oval. in japan they use a different cvd system, it's like you turned a regular cvd link inside out. maybe i should try that. it could be better and wear less.

Aurra Sing

been trying out this new asphalt setup, its been working extremely good. low traction/high traction, VHT, soda, you name it... almost always the fastest car or one of the fastest. too bad the driver hasnt been driving consistenly lately

setup influenced by recent setup trends of the JRX-S, which is to have a high front roll center.. it has a lot of steering and rounds corners well


(front/rear)
springs: gold/silver or silver/silver (or harder overall depending on track)
sway bar: copper OR silver/no rear sway bar (again varying on track)
oil: 50/40
piston: #3/#3
damper positions on shock tower: #2/#4
camber: -1deg/-1deg
droop: 6mm/5mm (measured using HPI droop guage)
inboard toe: 1.5deg/3deg
roll center:
f/f: 2mm
f/r: 2mm
r/f: 0mm
r/r: 0mm

inner camber link spacing: 3mm/2.5mm

- camber link mounted on inside hole on rear hub
- one way
- mazda 6 body
- use short wheel base for tight tracks
- 2mm chassis

wagonman72

Cyclone not available yet, but soon.

ChadCapece

thanks, I'll have to try that out.

Goofey

Dont mind if I too try it/Tks

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

yes...Aura Sing is very fast...his car was glued to the track.

my young apprestice is now a jedi master.