Serpent 966
#1861
Great Job Paolo! You and your car were smooth as butter. TQ and a win on a very difficult circuit - well done.
Paolo, you are a class act and a terrific RC racing ambassador. Always ready with a smile and a kind word. For any racer out there - Paolo is quite approachable and VERY knowledgeable I always enjoy technical exchanges with him.
Once again, very well done!!
Paolo, you are a class act and a terrific RC racing ambassador. Always ready with a smile and a kind word. For any racer out there - Paolo is quite approachable and VERY knowledgeable I always enjoy technical exchanges with him.
Once again, very well done!!
I don't care what Scotty Barnes says about you Rich you are a classy dude too
#1862
Tech Master
#1863
Tech Adept
Rick is correct. The black shoe with the alu bell is the best clutch in my opinion. If you are running the steel bell, then the yellow pad is the best option, since the black will slip too much.
I run the black shoe with the 909520 serpent spring, 0.9 preload and 0.7 gap
Paolo
I run the black shoe with the 909520 serpent spring, 0.9 preload and 0.7 gap
Paolo
I actually had some very good results using the black XP shoe with the steel housing. I run on a medium traction complex circit and with a gap of .55 the clutch performed well with very little wear.
#1864
Tech Rookie
new to s966.
Hi All,
I just check my 966 carefully.........
I found that the drive train isnt smooth.
1)
the front oneway has movement of about 1~2mm side to side
Do i need to add shims to fix it?
2) the sterring part "servo saver" is slightly touching the the front belt.
is it expected?
3) Both front and rear belt are set to default position. it seems very tight.
And I found a few point the will slightly enlongate the belt. it make the drive train doesnt smooth..
Do i need to use move the pole to "loose" position?
Thanks,
Ray
I just check my 966 carefully.........
I found that the drive train isnt smooth.
1)
the front oneway has movement of about 1~2mm side to side
Do i need to add shims to fix it?
2) the sterring part "servo saver" is slightly touching the the front belt.
is it expected?
3) Both front and rear belt are set to default position. it seems very tight.
And I found a few point the will slightly enlongate the belt. it make the drive train doesnt smooth..
Do i need to use move the pole to "loose" position?
Thanks,
Ray
#1866
Tech Fanatic
Hi All,
I just check my 966 carefully.........
I found that the drive train isnt smooth.
1)
the front oneway has movement of about 1~2mm side to side
Do i need to add shims to fix it?
2) the sterring part "servo saver" is slightly touching the the front belt.
is it expected?
3) Both front and rear belt are set to default position. it seems very tight.
And I found a few point the will slightly enlongate the belt. it make the drive train doesnt smooth..
Do i need to use move the pole to "loose" position?
Thanks,
Ray
I just check my 966 carefully.........
I found that the drive train isnt smooth.
1)
the front oneway has movement of about 1~2mm side to side
Do i need to add shims to fix it?
2) the sterring part "servo saver" is slightly touching the the front belt.
is it expected?
3) Both front and rear belt are set to default position. it seems very tight.
And I found a few point the will slightly enlongate the belt. it make the drive train doesnt smooth..
Do i need to use move the pole to "loose" position?
Thanks,
Ray
1) That movement is neccessary to have a free drive train. Do not shim
2) You need to loose the 16t pulley and move it a little bit more toward the exhaust. This will clear your servo saver
3)If you are using the belt included in the kit, i will recommend the softest setting in the front and middle in the rear. After you run it the first time they will be free. For best result in term of free car, use the rubber belts
#1867
Tech Fanatic
#1869
Tech Rookie
Hi Ray
1) That movement is neccessary to have a free drive train. Do not shim
2) You need to loose the 16t pulley and move it a little bit more toward the exhaust. This will clear your servo saver
3)If you are using the belt included in the kit, i will recommend the softest setting in the front and middle in the rear. After you run it the first time they will be free. For best result in term of free car, use the rubber belts
1) That movement is neccessary to have a free drive train. Do not shim
2) You need to loose the 16t pulley and move it a little bit more toward the exhaust. This will clear your servo saver
3)If you are using the belt included in the kit, i will recommend the softest setting in the front and middle in the rear. After you run it the first time they will be free. For best result in term of free car, use the rubber belts
Really solved my problem.
you are real expert!!!
can't wait to test my car!
#1872
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hi Pattojnr,
When putting the front end together, I believe the 'amount' of caster clips on each side of the top arms is 4 + 4 + 2 + 1... 11mm worth of clips. i find i have approximately 1 mm of play for the top arms (i.e. able to move them forward and back). Is this normal? Do you find this on your kit as well?
adding an additional 1mm caster clip will cause binding. unless of course I sand the clips down.
But just want clarification as to whether the free-play with 11mm of caster clips is normal.
thanks in advance.
sam
When putting the front end together, I believe the 'amount' of caster clips on each side of the top arms is 4 + 4 + 2 + 1... 11mm worth of clips. i find i have approximately 1 mm of play for the top arms (i.e. able to move them forward and back). Is this normal? Do you find this on your kit as well?
adding an additional 1mm caster clip will cause binding. unless of course I sand the clips down.
But just want clarification as to whether the free-play with 11mm of caster clips is normal.
thanks in advance.
sam
#1874
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Sammies, i put in the Xtra 1mm clip. it is tight, but not bad. it will free up nicley after a run .
also, last thing i did last night before packing up, the rear axles, i put in the axles, bearings, and the tapered spacer, couldnt get the pin in. so i used some other shims i had. it basically locked up the bearings in the hub ? different shims are fine. i like a little ply in my axles spacing. just a tiny bit.
#1875
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Noted. Thanks again Pattojnr
Cheers Sam .
Sammies, i put in the Xtra 1mm clip. it is tight, but not bad. it will free up nicley after a run .
also, last thing i did last night before packing up, the rear axles, i put in the axles, bearings, and the tapered spacer, couldnt get the pin in. so i used some other shims i had. it basically locked up the bearings in the hub ? different shims are fine. i like a little ply in my axles spacing. just a tiny bit.
Sammies, i put in the Xtra 1mm clip. it is tight, but not bad. it will free up nicley after a run .
also, last thing i did last night before packing up, the rear axles, i put in the axles, bearings, and the tapered spacer, couldnt get the pin in. so i used some other shims i had. it basically locked up the bearings in the hub ? different shims are fine. i like a little ply in my axles spacing. just a tiny bit.