Associated RC12R5
#1411
This is the response that I just received from Associated concerning the new 12R5.1:
Response:
Ok the only difference is that the rear pod is optimized for brushless motors. Just like you have already done.
Bill Martinez
Customer Support Specialist
Associated Electrics, Inc
Tel: +1 (949) 544-7500 Ext: 2115
Fax: +1 (949) 544-7501
Email: [email protected]
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:34 PM
To: AE CustomerService
Subject: Kit Service
Hello,
I just purchased a 12R5 kit last week from Amain Hobbies and just got in the mail. I also ordered all the parts from the 10R5 to make it a centered rear pod chassis. Now I just read on your home page that Associated is releasing the 12R5.1 kit... what is the main difference in the 2 kits. Will there be an upgrade conversion kit available or will I need to buy a whole new kit?
Please let me know what the part numbers are so I can put them on order at my local hobby shop if my 12r5 can be converted to the new 12R5.1 version.
Thank you!!
Marvin Brannon
Response:
Ok the only difference is that the rear pod is optimized for brushless motors. Just like you have already done.
Bill Martinez
Customer Support Specialist
Associated Electrics, Inc
Tel: +1 (949) 544-7500 Ext: 2115
Fax: +1 (949) 544-7501
Email: [email protected]
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:34 PM
To: AE CustomerService
Subject: Kit Service
Hello,
I just purchased a 12R5 kit last week from Amain Hobbies and just got in the mail. I also ordered all the parts from the 10R5 to make it a centered rear pod chassis. Now I just read on your home page that Associated is releasing the 12R5.1 kit... what is the main difference in the 2 kits. Will there be an upgrade conversion kit available or will I need to buy a whole new kit?
Please let me know what the part numbers are so I can put them on order at my local hobby shop if my 12r5 can be converted to the new 12R5.1 version.
Thank you!!
Marvin Brannon
The new car still uses the 10R5 bottom plate. The new pieces you will need are the 2 aluminum bulkheads, the cross tube and the graphite upper plate. The only advantage to this pod versuses the 10R5 pod is it is easier to get the motor in and out and solder the wires to the motor. Motor position stays the same as 10R5 pod plates.
You will not see any performance difference in these parts, just easier access to the motor.
#1412
Deleted: Sean posted the same comment.....
#1413
I thought the wider front end was weird feeling at first but I stayed with it and adjusted other areas that I felt needed a change. After a good tunning session on the setup I've got a car that's faster than what I was running and easier to drive. Can't go wrong with faster and easier to drive.
#1415
I adjusted the droop spacer and went back up to a gold spring. Then I went back to 20s in the front and blue side springs in the rear. Both of those changes seemed to make the car easier to drive through the whole run. With the bumps and inconsistant traction I would get caught out by the soft front spring and stiffer rear. Last week was the best the car has felt and the laps only dropped off .4 from beginning to end. My previous best was more like .6-.7 from begining to end.
#1416
Tech Champion
What size threading is the tie rod on the front suspension upper arm?
#1417
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Once I finally got the right tires, now black and yellow, I found that I needed to adjust the set up some to make it more consistant through the run.
I adjusted the droop spacer and went back up to a gold spring. Then I went back to 20s in the front and blue side springs in the rear. Both of those changes seemed to make the car easier to drive through the whole run. With the bumps and inconsistant traction I would get caught out by the soft front spring and stiffer rear. Last week was the best the car has felt and the laps only dropped off .4 from beginning to end. My previous best was more like .6-.7 from begining to end.
I adjusted the droop spacer and went back up to a gold spring. Then I went back to 20s in the front and blue side springs in the rear. Both of those changes seemed to make the car easier to drive through the whole run. With the bumps and inconsistant traction I would get caught out by the soft front spring and stiffer rear. Last week was the best the car has felt and the laps only dropped off .4 from beginning to end. My previous best was more like .6-.7 from begining to end.
#1418
Tech Addict
iTrader: (33)
Did you end up working anything out with your car alex?
Im new to 12th scale and only ran my 12r5 for the first time last weekend. From what i can tell tyres are most important thing to start with and your best bet is pink rears purple fronts. Double pink fronts will give you more steering but will wear faster.
I think standard kit setup might be ok, but a few people seem to be using a stiffer blue spring on the center shock. As for rollout i think you need something big like around 58mm but dont quote me on that. Its also going to be dependent on how you setup your speedie and timing on the motor although i think the prince has fixed timing
Im new to 12th scale and only ran my 12r5 for the first time last weekend. From what i can tell tyres are most important thing to start with and your best bet is pink rears purple fronts. Double pink fronts will give you more steering but will wear faster.
I think standard kit setup might be ok, but a few people seem to be using a stiffer blue spring on the center shock. As for rollout i think you need something big like around 58mm but dont quote me on that. Its also going to be dependent on how you setup your speedie and timing on the motor although i think the prince has fixed timing
If someone could let me know what i settings i use on the 4 cell GTB that would be great. i'll try 58mm rollout and go up or down from there.
thanks
Alex
#1419
I adjusted the droop spacer and went back up to a gold spring. Then I went back to 20s in the front and blue side springs in the rear. Both of those changes seemed to make the car easier to drive through the whole run. With the bumps and inconsistant traction I would get caught out by the soft front spring and stiffer rear. Last week was the best the car has felt and the laps only dropped off .4 from beginning to end. My previous best was more like .6-.7 from begining to end.
Car tonight fell off ~.2 sec in 8 min. I think I might be under geared a bit but I was experimenting with the v200 Tekin software update and didn't want to do any damage to the motor. Motor came off at 145 deg racing.
#1420
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Hara 40,
Have you run 12th scale before? I started pretty soft when i started running but ended up using pretty aggressive settings like you would on a touring car.
Also if you are using a tekin, i would probably not use boost although if you have the new software you may want to try using the turbo.
With regards to springs, software front springs is meant to give you more steering as are HARDER and stiffer side and center springs. There is a 12th scale bible floating around if you cant find it let me know your email address and i'll email it to you.
PS. I got one of those prince motors. Dont know if its just me but i reckon they are good motors **SHRUG**
Have you run 12th scale before? I started pretty soft when i started running but ended up using pretty aggressive settings like you would on a touring car.
Also if you are using a tekin, i would probably not use boost although if you have the new software you may want to try using the turbo.
With regards to springs, software front springs is meant to give you more steering as are HARDER and stiffer side and center springs. There is a 12th scale bible floating around if you cant find it let me know your email address and i'll email it to you.
PS. I got one of those prince motors. Dont know if its just me but i reckon they are good motors **SHRUG**
#1421
Parts from RC10R5O
8536 FT Motor Mount
8537 FT Left Rear Bulkhead
8538 FT Motor Mount Standoff
The rest I didn't find...
8536 FT Motor Mount
8537 FT Left Rear Bulkhead
8538 FT Motor Mount Standoff
The rest I didn't find...
#1422
Tech Addict
iTrader: (33)
Hara 40,
Have you run 12th scale before? I started pretty soft when i started running but ended up using pretty aggressive settings like you would on a touring car.
Also if you are using a tekin, i would probably not use boost although if you have the new software you may want to try using the turbo.
With regards to springs, software front springs is meant to give you more steering as are HARDER and stiffer side and center springs. There is a 12th scale bible floating around if you cant find it let me know your email address and i'll email it to you.
PS. I got one of those prince motors. Dont know if its just me but i reckon they are good motors **SHRUG**
Have you run 12th scale before? I started pretty soft when i started running but ended up using pretty aggressive settings like you would on a touring car.
Also if you are using a tekin, i would probably not use boost although if you have the new software you may want to try using the turbo.
With regards to springs, software front springs is meant to give you more steering as are HARDER and stiffer side and center springs. There is a 12th scale bible floating around if you cant find it let me know your email address and i'll email it to you.
PS. I got one of those prince motors. Dont know if its just me but i reckon they are good motors **SHRUG**
my email is [email protected] if you can send me that 1/12th bible. cant wait to get this thing running. batteries still havent rocked up
#1423
#1424
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Sean C..I just printed both of your setups and gona take them to the track with me tonight. You didnt list what rear rubber on the new sheet. Also can you give me a front width in mm? Last thing, I see your running the rear higher than the front. Are you setting the pod flat or letting it rake with the chassis?
Thanks
DK
Thanks
DK
#1425
Sean C..I just printed both of your setups and gona take them to the track with me tonight. You didnt list what rear rubber on the new sheet. Also can you give me a front width in mm? Last thing, I see your running the rear higher than the front. Are you setting the pod flat or letting it rake with the chassis?
Thanks
DK
Thanks
DK
Front width 165mm
I check the ride height at the back edge of the chassis, just let the pod droop to achieve the correct ride height.