Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree7Likes

Hot Bodies TCXX

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-28-2013, 01:55 PM
  #1006  
Tech Rookie
 
EvaldasD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kaunas, Lithuania
Posts: 16
Default

Originally Posted by EvaldasD
What is the main difference and for what situation should be used those new v2 front spindles ?
EvaldasD is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 05:18 PM
  #1007  
Tech Elite
 
ShaunMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Loading...
Posts: 3,421
Default

Are the V2 blocks the ones with the third hole spaced a bit more outside and back than the standard kit blocks?

Like these?
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies TCXX-v2.jpg  
ShaunMac is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 05:29 PM
  #1008  
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
 
DirtyDog3375's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Queenslander
Posts: 1,978
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Are the V2 blocks the ones with the third hole spaced a bit more outside and back than the standard kit blocks?

Like these?
Yep. They are only a new part. So might take some to filter out to all the HB stockists. The part number is HB68489.

HTH
DirtyDog3375 is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 08:39 PM
  #1009  
Tech Regular
 
M3Armand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 263
Default

Can anyone answer what the new V2 spindle blocks are for? i.e. - why did they change it again?
M3Armand is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 08:43 PM
  #1010  
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,238
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M3Armand
Can anyone answer what the new V2 spindle blocks are for? i.e. - why did they change it again?
forget about the spindles. I want the new towers and short shocks used at the TITC
goots is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 10:19 PM
  #1011  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,176
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M3Armand
Can anyone answer what the new V2 spindle blocks are for? i.e. - why did they change it again?
I know they look like they move it further out than the TCXX blocks, but they are in between the OLD OLD steering blocks and the TCXX blocks. The new V2 blocks are a modified version of the original blocks from the Cyclone and TCX.
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 10:40 PM
  #1012  
Suspended
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: awahtukee, AZ
Posts: 1,433
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by i am cornholio
does anyone have a good setup for 17.5 at norcal hobbies..or tamiya
ok then...good talk
i am cornholio is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 10:51 PM
  #1013  
Suspended
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: awahtukee, AZ
Posts: 1,433
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
Probably the main reason you won't be seeing much on Hara's setup is because of a few key prototype parts that were on the car. A lot of people don't realize the difference some of these can make to what the overall setup should be, so they aren't posted. If you need a solid setup, I'm sure one of us can help you out though.

-Korey
still waiting
i am cornholio is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 11:48 PM
  #1014  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,176
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ali_g
Fred, care to share your setup for carpet?
Originally Posted by ali_g
Fred, care to share your setup for carpet?
I know I'm not Fred... but I'd like to consider myself as a credible source as well .

Front:
Spring: Yokomo Pink
Oil: Much More 500
Piston: Kit 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock Length: 63.5mm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe: 0
Droop: 9.5-10.00mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, 1mm gap on links
Shock Position: #3 on tower, #2 on arm
Camber link: Short, w/2mm under the inner pivot
Ackerman: 2.5mm on steering rack, #3 hole on V2 steering block
Suspension blocks: FF=1.5 deg, FR= solid +1.5
Shims under suspension blocks: FF= 1.0mm, FR=1.0mm
Wheelbase: 1.25 behind arm, 1.5 in front
Front Drive: Spool, Long POM outdrives, 46mm driveshafts (Tamiya for 2mm pin)

Rear:
Spring: Yokomo Pink
Oil: Much More 500
Piston: Kit 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock Length: 64.0mm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Toe: 3 deg
Droop: 9.5mm
Swaybar: Narrow 1.2mm, 1mm gap on links
Shock Position: #3 on tower, #3 on arm
Camber link: Short on bulkhead, short on hub carrier, w/1.5mm under the inner and outer pivot.
Suspension blocks: RF: Solid 0, RR, 3 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: FF= 1.0mm, FR=1.0mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind it. 1.5 in front of rear hub, 1.25 behind it.
Gear Diff: AE 35wt shock oil. (orings are swelled a bit, you might need to run thicker if stability/forward bite issues come up).

Body: LW Mazdaspeed 6
Wing: LW HB from Subaru Type C

I think that's everything... Let me know if you have any questions.

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 04-28-2013, 11:56 PM
  #1015  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,176
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by i am cornholio
still waiting
Sorry to keep you waiting. Since I live in continuously rainy Washington state, I don't get to run asphalt very much (or see sunlight... I was very confused as to what the bright ball in the sky was last time I visited California).

I do know a Norcal local that always has a solid 17.5 setup on his HB cars, and he goes by "Advil" on these forums. I would contact him and see if he has a solid starting point for you specific for Norcal Raceway in the 17.5 class.

Sorry I couldn't be as much direct help.

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 04-29-2013, 04:09 AM
  #1016  
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
 
ali_g's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,156
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I know I'm not Fred... but I'd like to consider myself as a credible source as well .

Front:
Spring: Yokomo Pink
Oil: Much More 500
Piston: Kit 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock Length: 63.5mm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe: 0
Droop: 9.5-10.00mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, 1mm gap on links
Shock Position: #3 on tower, #2 on arm
Camber link: Short, w/2mm under the inner pivot
Ackerman: 2.5mm on steering rack, #3 hole on V2 steering block
Suspension blocks: FF=1.5 deg, FR= solid +1.5
Shims under suspension blocks: FF= 1.0mm, FR=1.0mm
Wheelbase: 1.25 behind arm, 1.5 in front
Front Drive: Spool, Long POM outdrives, 46mm driveshafts (Tamiya for 2mm pin)

Rear:
Spring: Yokomo Pink
Oil: Much More 500
Piston: Kit 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock Length: 64.0mm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Toe: 3 deg
Droop: 9.5mm
Swaybar: Narrow 1.2mm, 1mm gap on links
Shock Position: #3 on tower, #3 on arm
Camber link: Short on bulkhead, short on hub carrier, w/1.5mm under the inner and outer pivot.
Suspension blocks: RF: Solid 0, RR, 3 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: FF= 1.0mm, FR=1.0mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind it. 1.5 in front of rear hub, 1.25 behind it.
Gear Diff: AE 35wt shock oil. (orings are swelled a bit, you might need to run thicker if stability/forward bite issues come up).

Body: LW Mazdaspeed 6
Wing: LW HB from Subaru Type C

I think that's everything... Let me know if you have any questions.

-Korey
Do you normally run a light oil for gear diff on carpet tracks?
ali_g is offline  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:23 AM
  #1017  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,885
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by i am cornholio
ok then...good talk
Sorry, didn't look here recently...

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
Sorry to keep you waiting. Since I live in continuously rainy Washington state, I don't get to run asphalt very much (or see sunlight... I was very confused as to what the bright ball in the sky was last time I visited California).

I do know a Norcal local that always has a solid 17.5 setup on his HB cars, and he goes by "Advil" on these forums. I would contact him and see if he has a solid starting point for you specific for Norcal Raceway in the 17.5 class.

Sorry I couldn't be as much direct help.

-Korey
Slacker!

Here is what I have as of yesterday.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies TCXX-tcxx-4-28-13-setup.jpg  
Advil is offline  
Old 04-29-2013, 10:51 AM
  #1018  
Suspended
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: awahtukee, AZ
Posts: 1,433
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

thx advil...are you using tcx motor mount or tcxx one..and are you using all the top deck screws..sorry to be such a pain..
i am cornholio is offline  
Old 04-29-2013, 12:46 PM
  #1019  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,885
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by i am cornholio
thx advil...are you using tcx motor mount or tcxx one..and are you using all the top deck screws..sorry to be such a pain..
I am using the stock TCXX motor mount. On the setup sheet the top deck screws that are filled in with black should be blank. I don't know why it did that when I converted the .pdf to .jpg for posting. I do have a 2mm top deck on order...next weekend we will see if it works.

Art
Advil is offline  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:05 PM
  #1020  
Suspended
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: awahtukee, AZ
Posts: 1,433
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Advil
I am using the stock TCXX motor mount. On the setup sheet the top deck screws that are filled in with black should be blank. I don't know why it did that when I converted the .pdf to .jpg for posting. I do have a 2mm top deck on order...next weekend we will see if it works.

Art
thx ..you going to the speedtech race at tamiya?? and i assume you will be at the reedy race..i will look for you ..thx again
i am cornholio is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.