Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0
11-07-2014, 12:46 PM
#271
2nd hand info, but I am told some of the Xray drivers were actually using 6 degree hubs angled forward to good effect.
Has anyone tried changing toe at the arm (similar to front arm sweep) with the same toe at the knuckle to get varying results? You could adjust for some amount of the width in that way depending on the effect. I got the blocks to run 0 and 0.5 but have not tried it yet. 0-0 will bind the hinge pins.
Has anyone tried changing toe at the arm (similar to front arm sweep) with the same toe at the knuckle to get varying results? You could adjust for some amount of the width in that way depending on the effect. I got the blocks to run 0 and 0.5 but have not tried it yet. 0-0 will bind the hinge pins.
11-07-2014, 12:48 PM
#272
I am not any closer to an answer to the question if there is something strange with the diff housing I got with the 3.0 or if it is something wrong with my intellect 
I sent the question to Jirka working at the distributor in Germany but I have not heard back yet.
I am using a housing from a 2.0 car.
I sent the question to Jirka working at the distributor in Germany but I have not heard back yet.I am using a housing from a 2.0 car.
11-07-2014, 01:23 PM
#273
2nd hand info, but I am told some of the Xray drivers were actually using 6 degree hubs angled forward to good effect.
Has anyone tried changing toe at the arm (similar to front arm sweep) with the same toe at the knuckle to get varying results? You could adjust for some amount of the width in that way depending on the effect. I got the blocks to run 0 and 0.5 but have not tried it yet. 0-0 will bind the hinge pins.
Has anyone tried changing toe at the arm (similar to front arm sweep) with the same toe at the knuckle to get varying results? You could adjust for some amount of the width in that way depending on the effect. I got the blocks to run 0 and 0.5 but have not tried it yet. 0-0 will bind the hinge pins.
11-08-2014, 02:06 AM
#274
Tech Apprentice
The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.
11-09-2014, 11:16 PM
#275
I tried the RRS at a tight indoor carpet track with medium grip and I drive modified. Ended up using 0.5-0.5 block in the rear and 1 mm shims in front of the rear arms to get the wheelbase right. It felt ok but not a huge difference in lap times compared to regular hubs. My best RRS 5 minute run was equal to my best run without it. Best laptime a little better with the RRS. The feeling though is quite different. There is potential in the sytem but I´m unsure of how to unlock it.
11-10-2014, 02:37 AM
#276
Won´t the wheelbase be very long with this?
11-10-2014, 05:31 AM
#277
The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.
I tried the RRS at a tight indoor carpet track with medium grip and I drive modified. Ended up using 0.5-0.5 block in the rear and 1 mm shims in front of the rear arms to get the wheelbase right. It felt ok but not a huge difference in lap times compared to regular hubs. My best RRS 5 minute run was equal to my best run without it. Best laptime a little better with the RRS. The feeling though is quite different. There is potential in the sytem but I´m unsure of how to unlock it.
Yes wheelbase will be longer, but that seems to be common in many of the setups. My 17.5 carpet car is 5mm front, 1mm rear of the arm, and my mod asphalt car is 6mm front, 0mm rear. The longer wheelbase calms the car down for me.
11-11-2014, 01:15 PM
#278
The 2.0 kit runs the v3 diff. The v1 and v2 diffs ran metal gears and the large gear in the housing was screwed to the outdrives. Thus the reason there are no pin slots in a v2 casing. With the v3 diffs they have pins holding the composite gears in place. We used much lighter oils and sometimes only 2 satellite gears in the metal diffs. The new composite diffs are 10x better than the old ones due to the weight savings alone. Metal gear diffs are very good for putty or heavy oils for a front diff.
11-11-2014, 01:20 PM
#279
The 2.0 kit runs the v3 diff. The v1 and v2 diffs ran metal gears and the large gear in the housing was screwed to the outdrives. Thus the reason there are no pin slots in a v2 casing. With the v3 diffs they have pins holding the composite gears in place. We used much lighter oils and sometimes only 2 satellite gears in the metal diffs. The new composite diffs are 10x better than the old ones due to the weight savings alone. Metal gear diffs are very good for putty or heavy oils for a front diff.
11-12-2014, 08:06 AM
#281
The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.
Were you able to use the 0.5-0.5 without the pin binding? My hingepin is too long to run straight on the rear without some amount of toe.
Yes wheelbase will be longer, but that seems to be common in many of the setups. My 17.5 carpet car is 5mm front, 1mm rear of the arm, and my mod asphalt car is 6mm front, 0mm rear. The longer wheelbase calms the car down for me.
Yes wheelbase will be longer, but that seems to be common in many of the setups. My 17.5 carpet car is 5mm front, 1mm rear of the arm, and my mod asphalt car is 6mm front, 0mm rear. The longer wheelbase calms the car down for me.
The 2.0 kit runs the v3 diff. The v1 and v2 diffs ran metal gears and the large gear in the housing was screwed to the outdrives. Thus the reason there are no pin slots in a v2 casing. With the v3 diffs they have pins holding the composite gears in place. We used much lighter oils and sometimes only 2 satellite gears in the metal diffs. The new composite diffs are 10x better than the old ones due to the weight savings alone. Metal gear diffs are very good for putty or heavy oils for a front diff.
I just got a used car and upon taking the diff apart, it also had the black seals. The satalite gears look to be a different material and the big gears where stripped, so I'm not sure if the previous owner changed out parts, or if this is a factory change up.
Hey Cody good luck in Cleveland, hope you and Paul (and any other Serpent drivers) have a successful race.
11-12-2014, 08:51 AM
#282
@ Mr. Wishbone hopefully Paul and I will keep both mod cars in the Amain, and I'm feeling good about the stock car! My friend Adam (a recent convert) nearly put his in the stock Amain at the Halloween Classic and he hasn't been doing TC very long, so I expect good results from him at Indoor Champs also
11-13-2014, 06:13 AM
#283
I went threw all my diffs this weekend, and I don't have one that doesn't have deep and shallow pockets for the pins. So not sure what you ended up with there, maybe a defective part from the factory?
I have my car setup with .5/.5 right now, I haven't run it yet, but I get no bind issues. The arms are very close to the lower bearing bulkheads, so make sure you have the extra arm flashing trimmed for good clearance. Not sure what to expect from this though, as the car will be narrower, but wonder what taking the rear arm sweep out of it will do? Also have to remember that that lower shock point moves inboard more with this setting so may have to play with shock angle. It definitely get the axles deeper into the plunge of the outdrive. I also have a set of Xray -.75mm hexes that could get the rear more narrow if required. Testing tonight so should get some feedback.
When I run a front diff, I use the older ones as well, I like the steel outdrives just for the durability factor up front, and I think the little extra weight helps the car a bit too.
I don't think either of you have said they are bad, I think Cody is just saying that you don't have to run the metal parts for a putty locker type diff, either will work very well.
I just got a used car and upon taking the diff apart, it also had the black seals. The satalite gears look to be a different material and the big gears where stripped, so I'm not sure if the previous owner changed out parts, or if this is a factory change up.
Hey Cody good luck in Cleveland, hope you and Paul (and any other Serpent drivers) have a successful race.
I have my car setup with .5/.5 right now, I haven't run it yet, but I get no bind issues. The arms are very close to the lower bearing bulkheads, so make sure you have the extra arm flashing trimmed for good clearance. Not sure what to expect from this though, as the car will be narrower, but wonder what taking the rear arm sweep out of it will do? Also have to remember that that lower shock point moves inboard more with this setting so may have to play with shock angle. It definitely get the axles deeper into the plunge of the outdrive. I also have a set of Xray -.75mm hexes that could get the rear more narrow if required. Testing tonight so should get some feedback.
When I run a front diff, I use the older ones as well, I like the steel outdrives just for the durability factor up front, and I think the little extra weight helps the car a bit too.
I don't think either of you have said they are bad, I think Cody is just saying that you don't have to run the metal parts for a putty locker type diff, either will work very well.
I just got a used car and upon taking the diff apart, it also had the black seals. The satalite gears look to be a different material and the big gears where stripped, so I'm not sure if the previous owner changed out parts, or if this is a factory change up.
Hey Cody good luck in Cleveland, hope you and Paul (and any other Serpent drivers) have a successful race.
11-13-2014, 08:33 AM
#284
So I ran the .5/.5 yesterday and this setting created a big push issue from mid corner out and wasn't very stable, almost fighting the car too much to get a fast lap in. Played with this quite a lot last night, and my final setting which netted me a 0.23 improvement over the .5/.5 setting was going back to the .5/3.5. I also lowered the rear roll center to 5mm inner, and finally went to the Xray -.75 hexes. The car was consistently faster and much easier to drive. I did have to add 1mm to the ackerman setting, but this was just trying to tighten up the exit off for some fine tuning, but the car felt pretty good.
11-16-2014, 12:37 PM
#285
Thinking about trying one of the option CF bottom chassis plates on my 3.0. I notice the 2.0mm plate is labelled as "hard" whereas the 2.25mm doesn't have a description so I'm assuming the 2.25mm plate is the more flexible of the two?
Also, would like to hear feedback from anyone who has tried either of the CF chassis and what they thought compared to the standard alu chassis?
Cheers
Simon
Also, would like to hear feedback from anyone who has tried either of the CF chassis and what they thought compared to the standard alu chassis?
Cheers
Simon