Associated RC12R5
03-09-2010, 08:10 PM
#2266
I have found on the 12r5, if the center pivot is too LOOSE, it will handle very strangley. The plastic there is soft, and tends to stretch the first few runs, might have to snug it up some. Check also that the front end moves freely, upper eyelets level and not binding, pins move freely in the balls, etc. GOOD LUCK!
03-10-2010, 10:40 AM
#2267
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Maybell,
What kind of rebound to center should a person expect when checking tweak on a tweak station? Should a person expect the bubble to return to center when you push one side of the tweak bar and then push down on the center spring connection to the rear pod? I am wondering if I am expecting to much or do I have a binding issue.
Thanks for your reply and time
God Bless
What kind of rebound to center should a person expect when checking tweak on a tweak station? Should a person expect the bubble to return to center when you push one side of the tweak bar and then push down on the center spring connection to the rear pod? I am wondering if I am expecting to much or do I have a binding issue.
Thanks for your reply and time
God Bless
03-11-2010, 01:15 PM
#2268
Maybell,
What kind of rebound to center should a person expect when checking tweak on a tweak station? Should a person expect the bubble to return to center when you push one side of the tweak bar and then push down on the center spring connection to the rear pod? I am wondering if I am expecting to much or do I have a binding issue.
Thanks for your reply and time
God Bless
What kind of rebound to center should a person expect when checking tweak on a tweak station? Should a person expect the bubble to return to center when you push one side of the tweak bar and then push down on the center spring connection to the rear pod? I am wondering if I am expecting to much or do I have a binding issue.
Thanks for your reply and time
God Bless
I hope this helps!
03-11-2010, 04:03 PM
#2269
Make sure to disconnect your side shock before you put it on the tweak station. I run a little preload on my side springs so if I push one down on one side it should come almost completely back to center...if you tweak the car with the side shock connected, it wont come back to center...before I check the bubble I gently tap on the front center and the upper pod plate with my 1.5mm driver...
I hope this helps!
I hope this helps!
03-11-2010, 04:11 PM
#2270
03-11-2010, 04:32 PM
#2272
I have just recently bought myself a 5.1 and I m seeking some advice on setting my little car up given the fact that the 1/12 class in Greece is currently non-existent. In order for you to help me out I have to give you as many facts as possible. So, our first race will take place on this ( http://www.elmegallery.gr/displayima...album=35&pos=4 ) track and we currently dont know which layout we will use. Certainly we will have to use one of the two straights which are approx 65-85 feet long, depending on which one we run. A bit bumpy when compared to the tracks you run in the UK and the US.
Traction should be considered low, as on the same day, a 1/10 touring class race will take place too. Otherwise, I would consider it extremely low as the track is not treated with any traction stuff at all.
Mod motors are allowed and my pit bag carries a 4.5, a 5.5 and a 7.5 with 1s lipo and an ESC choice between SXX TC and SXX stock.
Tyre choices are limited to CRC normal and pro-cuts.
Given these facts what equipment would you run on this track? What roll-out would you consider as a good starting point? What tyres?
Any help on this would be very much appreciated.
By the way, keep in mind that given the amateur level of all of us, anyone who manages to have a consistent car, even if it is a bit slower than the others, will definately win this race by miles.
Traction should be considered low, as on the same day, a 1/10 touring class race will take place too. Otherwise, I would consider it extremely low as the track is not treated with any traction stuff at all.
Mod motors are allowed and my pit bag carries a 4.5, a 5.5 and a 7.5 with 1s lipo and an ESC choice between SXX TC and SXX stock.
Tyre choices are limited to CRC normal and pro-cuts.
Given these facts what equipment would you run on this track? What roll-out would you consider as a good starting point? What tyres?
Any help on this would be very much appreciated.
By the way, keep in mind that given the amateur level of all of us, anyone who manages to have a consistent car, even if it is a bit slower than the others, will definately win this race by miles.
When I assembled my car, I don't remember putting any type of lube on my kingpin. As I go back to the directions, I confirm this, and don't see anything about it.
But as I look through setup sheets, I see it mentioned.
Do you just apply a thin coat of shock fluid to the kingpin? For those of you with 10r5's, do you do it the same way to that car?
But as I look through setup sheets, I see it mentioned.
Do you just apply a thin coat of shock fluid to the kingpin? For those of you with 10r5's, do you do it the same way to that car?
Just got home from work, so here's the final setup I ended up trying on the car before I packed up and called it a day-
Front End
Springs-.020"
20k diff fluid on the kingpins
10 degrees reactive caster
3.25 degrees of static caster
-1.5 degrees of camber
0 degrees of toe
large ackerman spacer on servo mounts
no bumpsteer spacers
6mm ride height
162 mm width
Parma Pro 38 Purple @ 45mm diameter
Rear End
25wt center shock oil
Silver center spring
20wt side shock oil
green side springs
1.5 turns of preload once the springs touched the side links
center shock mount - top hole in front, and stock spacer under rear ballcup
2mm droop (over ride-height method)
6mm ride height
172mm width
Parma Pro 38 Magenta @ 47.25mm diameter
Electronics
Futaba 9650 servo
4-cell GTB (replacing with a Tekin RS this week)
Speedzone 5000mah 50c lipo
Battery forward
Novak SS 10.5
gearing - 35/88
Front End
Springs-.020"
20k diff fluid on the kingpins
10 degrees reactive caster
3.25 degrees of static caster
-1.5 degrees of camber
0 degrees of toe
large ackerman spacer on servo mounts
no bumpsteer spacers
6mm ride height
162 mm width
Parma Pro 38 Purple @ 45mm diameter
Rear End
25wt center shock oil
Silver center spring
20wt side shock oil
green side springs
1.5 turns of preload once the springs touched the side links
center shock mount - top hole in front, and stock spacer under rear ballcup
2mm droop (over ride-height method)
6mm ride height
172mm width
Parma Pro 38 Magenta @ 47.25mm diameter
Electronics
Futaba 9650 servo
4-cell GTB (replacing with a Tekin RS this week)
Speedzone 5000mah 50c lipo
Battery forward
Novak SS 10.5
gearing - 35/88
a larger stagger. 2.5 to 3 mm
a green center spring
less pod droop. Pod just under level when looking at it from the side.
widen the front end 1.5 mm
Softer rear tire. Pink or Yellow.
when the car is setting on a tweakboard and one side of the rear pod is pushed down, the car should re-center itself when you let go. Depending on how thick of dampener lube you are using, it might not "snap" back immediately or super quickly. And it may come almost all the way back but not quite 100% (98% is ok). But if your pod doesn't center itself back quickly and almost completely, then you should be looking for a binding problem. With the motor in the car, sometimes it's hard to feel a bound up pod. What I do is remove the top plate, the motor, and both side plates so that only the middle pivot ball, the side links, and the lower plate are together. The lower plate should raise and fall and it should tilt sideways in a completely free manner. No bind of any kind is acceptable. Often the middle pivot get's knocked out of position and that binds up the pod. It's critical that the pod is free in both orientations (front to back and side to side), and it's easiest to verify without the side plates, the motor, or the dampener. When all of that stuff is installed, the weight of the complete assembly makes it hard to tell by feel if the pod is free enough. But when you have only the lower plate on the car, it will be very obvious in feel if there's any binding. If there is any, then it's important to find it and to eliminate it.
I wish we had a sticky for this technique. I typed it once and it took forever to explain. +1,000,000
03-11-2010, 04:41 PM
#2273
03-12-2010, 09:21 AM
#2274
Looks like that setup posted is probably for 13.5 or mod...
Can someone please post or send me a link to a 17.5 setup?
Thanks!
Can someone please post or send me a link to a 17.5 setup?
Thanks!
03-13-2010, 11:37 PM
#2275
I'm new to 12th scale racing and have been thinking about buying the 12r5.1
I just was wondering whether it used metric hex screws or imperial ones. Also i was wondering where one of the users in this thread bought his blue screws from. (Looked totally awesome
).
Also can someone tell me why the yokomo brace is a good upgrade. Still really confused
Thanks guys.
I just was wondering whether it used metric hex screws or imperial ones. Also i was wondering where one of the users in this thread bought his blue screws from. (Looked totally awesome
).Also can someone tell me why the yokomo brace is a good upgrade. Still really confused
Thanks guys.
03-14-2010, 12:56 AM
#2276
I'm new to 12th scale racing and have been thinking about buying the 12r5.1
I just was wondering whether it used metric hex screws or imperial ones. Also i was wondering where one of the users in this thread bought his blue screws from. (Looked totally awesome).
Also can someone tell me why the yokomo brace is a good upgrade. Still really confused
Thanks guys.
I just was wondering whether it used metric hex screws or imperial ones. Also i was wondering where one of the users in this thread bought his blue screws from. (Looked totally awesome
).Also can someone tell me why the yokomo brace is a good upgrade. Still really confused
Thanks guys.
Dont know about the yokomo brace, i have one installed but i dont like the posts because you cant grip them and i was worried the screws werent tightened in it properly and i stripped the thread on one of the original posts, i mustve tried to do it up pretty tight i guess.
AE actually does an aluminium screw set....
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=8557
03-14-2010, 01:00 AM
#2277
I have also got another question. I was wondering what tyres i should get if i am running on an outdoor ash felt track. Also i was wondering what pinions and gearing i should use with a venom 17.5 turn motor. Also it would be a big help to mention the variety of pinions and spurs i should buy as i don't go to the local hobby shop very often at all.
Does the kit come with imperial allan keys as all my hex drivers and allen keys are in metric measurements? Also can the screws for the rear wheels be replaced with ones that use metric hex driver.
Does the kit come with imperial allan keys as all my hex drivers and allen keys are in metric measurements? Also can the screws for the rear wheels be replaced with ones that use metric hex driver.
Last edited by silverfrancis; 03-16-2010 at 12:28 AM.
03-17-2010, 02:36 AM
#2278
Nut Drivers for Diff
Hi guys, can anyone tell me if a 3/8 nut driver would work on the diff nut? I am using a metric 9mm currently but I dont work in inches! here is the link of the nut driver I would like to get http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-dri...5-p-25142.html if not what do you use as I havnt seen a 9mm one as yet? Cheers in advance
03-17-2010, 08:26 AM
#2279
Tech Adept
My car is almost done and I have 2 questions.
Is it normal for the pivot balls installed in the front arms to be snug? Do I have to do something to free up their movement?
Is anyone running SXX ss in his 12th? Does the servo need a voltage booster?
Thanks people.
Is it normal for the pivot balls installed in the front arms to be snug? Do I have to do something to free up their movement?
Is anyone running SXX ss in his 12th? Does the servo need a voltage booster?
Thanks people.
03-17-2010, 10:58 AM
#2280
1. With the king pin in the ball in the arm squeeze them with a pair of pliers.
2. Pop the ball in and out of the arm with a ball installer over and over.
3. I sometimes rotate the king pin in the arm with some tension to help as well. Not spinning it, but tweaking it at an angle and then moving it in a circle.
Regardless if its the receiver, the servo, or esc that needs it, you will need a booster or a receiver pack for the car to work properly for 8 minutes. I prefer boosters.