Stogie

iTrader: (2)

Good point about the oil, have to start thinking about factors like that after getting accustomed to not worrying about it for nearly a year now. That was one of the things I really liked about this car up until this enhancement.

If indeed the vanes in these new dampers are solid and we're able to drill our own holes in them for "adjustability", I'm guessing it's going to be difficult to exactly duplicate what anyone else is doing, even if they are explicit about drill bit size, number of holes, etc. Kind of hoping everyone just leaves them solid and adjusts with oil only.

Of course, even with the DR6/DL6 dampers with 60000 CST oil (?), who knows what the team guys were really running... not to say anyone is being deceptive, but we all know that not ALL of the secrets get shared with us club racers!

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

The dampers in the kit come with 500cst and the rotors have a predrilled hole, 0.9mm i believe. The solid rotors are options. I dont see why it would be hard to make what someone else did unless they arent being forthright, but i dont think any of our team guys would do that

I believe most of the team guys here are going to use ae oil since it is consistent and easy to get.

I promise you nobody was intentionally altering the old dampers. They do change in feel over time (get lighter), but we were not trying to make anything happen. The new dampers are a big step forward in that regard since we will be able to repeat settings much more easily.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

+1 to Gee's comments. no secrets here w/ the DL6 and DR6.

i'm way to lazy to be rebuilding shocks like crazy (and like i had to with prior cars). everyone is going to try the stock stuff and just adjust oils initially. on new years i'm going to build a bunch of different oil weights and try to bench test their difference (assuming i can see straight..)

Stogie

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, good to know...

It's been my experience since getting above the age of 40 that racing with a hangover is not a lot of fun. Did a bit of damage to one of my cars and even more extensive damage to my ego on club race Sunday the day after a Christmas party!

cmunro

iTrader: (12)

this may be a stupid question but when you change to asymetrical mode is does the rebound change or compresion?

-jacob-

iTrader: (7)

^^ for me it did... someone could explain this better than me. But making this change helped in bumpy carpet conditions that we have at our other track.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

From page 37 in the A700EX/L/EXL manual-

"At asymmetric Damper Action Mode the compression stroke is softer than the rebound stroke"

Bumpy track -- making the dampening softer -- somewhat makes sense. You might have been able to achieve similar results with a smaller "A" gap. Maybe.

When we ran reverse asymmetrical mode in Mod TC on asphalt we were making the dampening stiffer -- that also makes sense.

This will not be immediately available within the A700-D2 unless you drill custom vanes (just like you can do this by drilling custom pistons within traditional shocks)

-jacob-

iTrader: (7)

Thank you Mike

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I just heard from Oleg a few hours ago. He said that Evo II, Evo IIC and A700L.2 kits would be including the "Standard" SPR01 from now on.

I know the Europe team has given the green light to the Standard springs. I suspect the USA team will try it under super high carpet grip to make sure it could work at our major races, like Snowbirds (as I'm concerned with grip-rolls...). Once we know more -- we will share.

kerry

iTrader: (1)

So I assume that the softer option will still work best for med bite carpet situations?

Oleg Babich

Guys,

The correct assembled and filled D2 dampers don't lose oil and keep the stable damping during very long period.
The reason of the subsequent possible oil loss should be the wear of the output OR15 o-ring. But we still don't see such wear after 2 months of testing.

The correct initial position of the smallest inner OR12 o-ring near to the outer edge of the AT41 vane axial hole is very important at assembling!!!
The proper order of ST46 screwing is very important also!
You have to screw ST46 before the output OR15 o-ring installation.
The proper installation of the output OR15 is important also. You have to be sure that this o-ring fully seats in its cavity. Otherwise this o-ring will press on the output bearing and to generate the excessive initial friction.

We are trying to provide all these steps for our factory assembled dampers.

Our oil supplier provides us the 500 cst oil from Japan silicone oil manufacturer for our factory assembled D2 dampers. I suppose that this oil should be similar to Kyosho 500 cst oil.

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Im trying to find the info in this thread, in what cases is the Reactive Caster blocks good to use? I race on a high grip carpet indoor track

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Reactive caster helps get the car turning in better. We use it on asphalt a lot. Josh runs it in mod on carpet but most stock guys have the links flat.

Doing the opposite of reactive caster (higher front front link) can take away so steering and make the car easier to drive. We used this at the 2014 worlds to try and cope with the high speed track...

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

For everyone with an aluminum chassis wondering where can we put weight? Apex RC is now carrying these ProSpec weights. Their long and thin size makes them fit in the nooks and crannies available on the car and are long enough to bridge the chassis cutouts, as well as fitting under the driveshaft on the brace.

JayL

Is there a new am49 for at04-2? my at04-2 is rubbing the am49