Team Associated TC6 Thread
#3361
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
You need to check your numbers. My first post was to what you claimed was .11mm tweak, now you "got it down to" .6mm which is 5 times more tweak then you posted you had. Was that supposed to be 1.1mm? If so that is way too much and disregard what I said, in fact .6mm is on the edge of what most serious racers would allow.
#3362
Tech Fanatic
Have you clean and regrease (black) the thrust race at the same time?
Do not use the term "spool" for a differential gear, a spool is at the front and have no or very little play with no balls but the white pads inside.
#3363
Tech Fanatic
No damage done to the RRR outdrive, even without the blades in, but my heatshrink does a good job.
there is quite a few shims to fit behind the ballraces, but the Sakura diff comes with plenty.
So all in all, good fit in the TC6, to recap: Sakura diff set, NT1 planetary gears, 40t/39t Sakura differential gears set, short RRR V1 Kyosho outdrives.
#3364
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, but here we go....
I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.
I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.
Some guys are getting way too anal about the tweak. It's only a 2mm chassis plate fellas! It's like trying to keep a wet noodle straight. This chassis has so much flex, it doesn't really matter if the tweak is a touch off as it will always be a touch off.
The first thing you hit on the track is going to change the chassis right off. All you can really do is get it close and run the thing for a few heats then check the tweak. Loosen a few screws to reset the tension and re-tighten, check your droop and go back out. After awhile the chassis will neutralize and then it will be more consistent. (This goes for any new car kit, not just the TC6) I can see no reason to stress over the chassis tweak on a new kit that has never been on the track or bounced off another car for that matter.
RELAX!!!!!!
I mean Chilllllllll, man
#3365
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, but here we go....
I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.
I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.
#3366
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
That totally depends on the amount of tweak your talking about. You can't just say any amount of tweak is OK, you need real world numbers to start to draw the line. The TC6 is pretty easy to keep under .5mm (.019) total tweak. Personally I keep mine under .2mm and have no problem doing so. More then that you are going to notice that shock collars, droop screws, camber angles, and toe angles are all being over corrected to make the chassis handle the same left to right.
#3367
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
That totally depends on the amount of tweak your talking about. You can't just say any amount of tweak is OK, you need real world numbers to start to draw the line. The TC6 is pretty easy to keep under .5mm (.019) total tweak. Personally I keep mine under .2mm and have no problem doing so. More then that you are going to notice that shock collars, droop screws, camber angles, and toe angles are all being over corrected to make the chassis handle the same left to right.
By the way, do you still have hinge pin mounts left?
I'd like to pick up a set soon.
#3368
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Except you forgot that what chassis tweak does is severely impact your weight transfer distribution by causing significant more cross weight in one direction than the other. This is due to the residual stress left in the chassis/fastened joints. Simply loosening and retightening these components (assuming nothing is bent/broken) will resolve this. Chassis tweak's impact on contact patch is pretty small. Setting corner weights in real racing is a very, very standard practice and those surfaces aren't perfect either.
Tweak definitely has it's place...I'm just lazy in that fashion.
Got my honey do list done, I'm racing tomorrow!!
#3369
Yes of course
Sorry my mistake
Sorry my mistake
#3372
Tech Fanatic
Most of the time I found set ups with 1000 to 650 (100/65) I just started to run mine with 1000 and it is good so far, have to try different oil to judge, I will be going down now.
#3373
just wanted to be sure, set belts tension like is in manual: front 28 mid-hight, rear 6 mid-low and that is not too much? they look very strained... That's manual so supposed to be ok, just want to be sure
#3374
Tech Fanatic
When you pull the long one out in the middle section it should move 5mm up, for the rear push in between the gears it should go down 2/3mm.