Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Godzilla: I'm doing some experiments with the rear arms in the front.. I'll mesure the exact caster this weekend and let you know the final results. As for belts, I ran the grey belt for awhile, but as previously stated, they wear quicker than the stock belt. Once the grey belt wore, I just changed back to the stock belt (soaked in WD-40 for better flex). Hope that helps...

fireblade

Racer x, are you gonna be at ripon with the cop? I will ill see you there

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

The Cop may be there, but I won't...I'm going to take a break from there for a few weeks

fireblade

Are you gonna race carpet and are you racing at Speedworld?

MattW

I think running the rear upper wishbone on the front will give the same caster as running the std one fully forward. i.e 6 deg castor if the lower wishbone is in the back/std position.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Yea that's how I'm running mod right now. I was running grey front and rear, but after about 15 runs with either a 9x2 or a 10x2 it finally smoked the grey rear belt...hehe

King-G

word up..yes the manual states that the grey belts are for stock racing!!!..the grey works great in the front for Mod also...but we only got around 15-20 runs with a grey belt in the rear before it started skipping. (with a 12x2)

The black belts are super efficient when soaked in wd40, as Racer X suggests..almost on par with the grey rear belt for flex and efficiency.

Combined with the R.W pullies, my car feels like it has almost zero friction, although I noted the Diameter of the R.W machined Pullies is slightly smaller, to free up the drivetrain further. I have found that running the grey belt in the front and the R.w pullies required me to add a little bit of tension on the front tensioner to prevent the front belt skipping a little under acceleration.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, it must of been something I was doing. I've only been racing for about 10 years and wouldn't notice my frickin' belt being upside down? I had just taken the car apart that same night and the belts looked fine.

Look I was just looking to hear if anyone else had been having problems with the belts, not to get ragged on by people who assume it must have been something I screwed up!

The belt wasn't rubbing, the drive train was almost completely free and the pulleys were clean and clear. I don't see how the belt could be "too lose" since it was the rear belt, I had the layshaft holders set properly and it was only about two months old. The thing looked like it was brand new. We only run stock motors here, so I haven't been running mod with the Grey belts.

Like I said, I don't get why the thing broke, but it sure as heck wasn't because of something I did. I went back to the stock belt without changing anything else and the car is fine.

So like I said before, I'm not sure what happened.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Heres a pic of the broken belt. Maybe the picture will tell some tales that I couldn't notice.

As you can see from the pic, the belt looks brand new. My only guess is that it was just a bad belt.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

I can tell you what happened and it really isn't your fault...or a defect....

Somethng got in there just long enough to make a cut almost 90% across the belt, then it was slung out quickly. Then when you hit the power agian it just tore the belt down the length of the teeth until it finally gave way. I have a standard belt that got that tell-tale cut.... I also had an HPI belt do the same thing a few years ago......

fireblade

Woaaa!! dark, chill out man From what I can tell is mabe it got overloaded and snapped or heat caused it. Many things could happen,crap happends in racing thats just the beauty of the beast. Ide just go bak to the stock belts they should last ya. As racer-x saidd too that they will wear faster. So half a season on the grey belts seems normal
Also as Impact said,it does seems as something cut it because it has a tail mabe a peice of lexan or plastic was arond on the track and unfortunaly got thrown up in your car

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Impact: thats all I was looking for, was to see if anyone had any ideas. I actually had my front belt catch a rock once and eject it. The only evidence that was left was a mark on the belt that showed where the rock got caught between the belt, pulley, and chassis. I don't know why, but I figured it couldn't happen to the rear. Oh, well.

The drive train still fells reasonably free, so I guess I'll stick with grey front, black rear for a while.

James Nguyen

Darkseid-I had the same thing happen to me except it was on my front belt. What had happened was my front belt picked up a piece of a broken tc3 cvd and the piece ripped the belt in half. My grey belt looked exactly the same as yours. My front belt wrapped around my front one-way and jammed it up and prevented the car from moving anywhere....before it did that it ground away and melted my rear diff pulley fences and wore my rear diff gear down to where you could barely even see the teeth on it. It also left a gouge in the bottom of my rear upper suspension mount. Talked about leaving scars to remember it by. LOL.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

My front belt ( the black one) is soo broken in that it is much, much more flexable and free than even any XXX-S belt I have ever felt.... in fact I also run it soo loose that everyone who checks it out can't even believe it stays on the pulleys..... and no problems what so ever..... The rear belt is very flexable also, but not quite as loose, if it was I would have to replace it. No wd40 tricks.....

BTW I have eard that you could boil your belts like you do with HPI arms.....

fireblade

Hrm, yea,the only thing about open belt drive train is u can get stuf in it Thats about the only thing I like on the xxx-s. its all enclosed.
IMPACT-Hey, do u notice on your xxx-s belts the top of it just wears down?? My xxx-s makes loud skipping noises and my belt is wearing fast. When i hit the brakes the belt wants to skip and i have the tensioner set to max. any ideas?