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Old 05-24-2012, 11:18 PM
  #2851  
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Originally Posted by Still Bill
Opening up the slot on the inner side of the steering block can help with your issue. Gives more clearance for the block to move on the ballstud...Especially up and down which is limited.
I'm sorry but i don't understand you. Can you show me with a picture?

Manutech's lexan bumper is somewhat more durable than CRC's carbon fiber units.
Yes, we have this bumper. It's MORE DURABLE


Thanks and regards
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:18 PM
  #2852  
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Default Opening up slot in steering block for more clearance

Sorry, I am headed off to Alaska for a vacation. Will try to verbalize mo better...LOL

I was describing slightly increasing the height of the slot opening in the steering block to allow for more up/down movement of the ballstud within that slot. I use an Xacto knife to cut off a small amount of graphite from the top and bottom of the slot.

In an impact, the lack of available up/down movement at that point can contribute to breakage of the steering block.

Bill
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:20 PM
  #2853  
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perdy smart idear thar Bill.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:23 PM
  #2854  
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Enjoy your vacation and show me a picture when you come back ("my view" is better than "my english" LOL)

regards
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:00 AM
  #2855  
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I thought I saw it at one point, but I can't find it now. Can anyone link me to Max's recent Carpet Nats set up for the LE?
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:16 AM
  #2856  
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I thought I saw it at one point, but I can't find it now. Can anyone link me to Max's recent Carpet Nats set up for the LE?
Quote: Originally Posted by JamesL_71 Max, I know this isn't the right thread, but would you be willing to share your WGT setup from the Carpet Nats?

WGT 2012 carpet nats setup

.50 front springs 12th kingpin set at .404 short arm long arm brace under caster block wide front plate short wheel base 0 toe servo up 5 degree caster blocks all shims back -.5 camber new steering block and axle front of battery against the back of the servo red center spring 30wt oil 30k in tubes red side springs 0 preload 1mm droop 4mm ride height front 4.2mm center 4.5mm rear

Found a few.pages back in.the gen xi thread.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:02 PM
  #2857  
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I am using the Tom Firshing Cleveland US indoor champs setup sheet to set my car up, as a starting point.
I have set the front ride height to 4.2mm.
I have set the rear ride height to 4.2mm.
when I check the ride height in the middle of the chassis, about where the rear battery cover supports are, it measures 2mm. How do I raise this so that it is 4.2mm? I have tried adjusting the threaded shock and that doesn't seem to make a significant change. I have looked at the side springs and can't see that they would change anything.

thanks,
tim
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:36 PM
  #2858  
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Usually by winding the centre shocks spring tighter but if that isn't working for you, you can undo the eyelet on the end of the shock shaft. What is the length of shock shaft showing?

Originally Posted by rc_speed
I am using the Tom Firshing Cleveland US indoor champs setup sheet to set my car up, as a starting point.
I have set the front ride height to 4.2mm.
I have set the rear ride height to 4.2mm.
when I check the ride height in the middle of the chassis, about where the rear battery cover supports are, it measures 2mm. How do I raise this so that it is 4.2mm? I have tried adjusting the threaded shock and that doesn't seem to make a significant change. I have looked at the side springs and can't see that they would change anything.

thanks,
tim

Last edited by WildManDriving; 05-31-2012 at 10:27 PM. Reason: *spelling.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:47 PM
  #2859  
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Originally Posted by rc_speed
I am using the Tom Firshing Cleveland US indoor champs setup sheet to set my car up, as a starting point.
I have set the front ride height to 4.2mm.
I have set the rear ride height to 4.2mm.
when I check the ride height in the middle of the chassis, about where the rear battery cover supports are, it measures 2mm. How do I raise this so that it is 4.2mm? I have tried adjusting the threaded shock and that doesn't seem to make a significant change. I have looked at the side springs and can't see that they would change anything.

thanks,
tim
Is your droop set? Are your front tires the same as your rear? Is your chassis flat? When's the last time you checked your football? Sometimes they stick and you will get an inconsistent ride height
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:39 PM
  #2860  
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Usually i check the camber:
Pushing the car until touch car the floor and then leave alone it. In this way i check de camber

But after 42minutes in the track i check diameter of the tyre and is less outside! = positive camber!

How i need to check the camber?

In the air?
In the floor but without pushing the car?


thanks and regards
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:34 PM
  #2861  
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Originally Posted by rc_speed
I am using the Tom Firshing Cleveland US indoor champs setup sheet to set my car up, as a starting point.
I have set the front ride height to 4.2mm.
I have set the rear ride height to 4.2mm.
when I check the ride height in the middle of the chassis, about where the rear battery cover supports are, it measures 2mm. How do I raise this so that it is 4.2mm? I have tried adjusting the threaded shock and that doesn't seem to make a significant change. I have looked at the side springs and can't see that they would change anything.

thanks,
tim
Hey Tim,

The ball cup you are using on the shaft comes in two lengths. Check the parts tree that the plastic shock parts come on. Use the longer length ball cup. That will extend the overall length of the shock assembly and raise the car in the center. Easy.

Bill
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:24 PM
  #2862  
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Originally Posted by TyoBBS
Usually i check the camber:
Pushing the car until touch car the floor and then leave alone it. In this way i check de camber

But after 42minutes in the track i check diameter of the tyre and is less outside! = positive camber!

How i need to check the camber?

In the air?
In the floor but without pushing the car?


thanks and regards
Check camber with the car fully loaded and ready to run on your set-up board. This method ensures that all your settings are true based on how the car will sit under race conditions.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:07 AM
  #2863  
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Some times you need more droop. Get the CRC shaft extender.It works great and will give you more droop. I tried the longer plastic ball cup part but that did not do the trick.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:21 AM
  #2864  
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Check camber with the car fully loaded and ready to run on your set-up board. This method ensures that all your settings are true based on how the car will sit under race conditions.
OK thanks.

I saw some videos (i only found off-road) and they left the car since some cm on the table.

I think we need to move front part (push down). To set front sring at "0 position" = check camber. Is true?


regards
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:48 AM
  #2865  
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Originally Posted by TyoBBS
OK thanks.

I saw some videos (i only found off-road) and they left the car since some cm on the table.

I think we need to move front part (push down). To set front sring at "0 position" = check camber. Is true?


regards

Correct. Get the car race ready, and then push down on the chassis and release to get the car to sit "neutral". I usually just push down in the middle of the car.
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