Team Associated TC6 Thread
#8116
X
Last edited by 20967; 11-22-2012 at 02:03 PM. Reason: mistake
#8117
Such a beauty! The Yokomo mount looks as if it was made for the TC6
Just the wiring could be a little more efficient
Just the wiring could be a little more efficient
#8118
Here my work on the TC6, it will be shown on the WC if the race test will a good result. Thanks to Kevin Kreft for info and other guys who with their jobs have allowed me to do this
Parts needs:
Yokomo floating servo mount
Reflex racing Tensioner/ Battery Spacer
Lexan 6 mm for antenna support
Kimbrough Servo Saver
Parts needs:
Yokomo floating servo mount
Reflex racing Tensioner/ Battery Spacer
Lexan 6 mm for antenna support
Kimbrough Servo Saver
Last edited by 20967; 11-22-2012 at 02:04 PM.
#8119
X
Last edited by 20967; 11-22-2012 at 02:05 PM. Reason: ERROR
#8120
#8121
Tech Apprentice
Hi All,
I have one strange thing, maybe it is not really an issue but let me explain:
My car drives always sligthly to the right. I have set it up -1,5 camber all 4 wheels. At the front both sides -1 toe (all other like caster etc are default like described in the manual). I have the feeling if I roll it manually it is fine, but as far as I drive the car goes slightly to the right and I need to trim to the left. I tried already to change the tires from left to right and placed the accu from left to right but still the same effect. Hope somebody know why.
Thanks in advance
I have one strange thing, maybe it is not really an issue but let me explain:
My car drives always sligthly to the right. I have set it up -1,5 camber all 4 wheels. At the front both sides -1 toe (all other like caster etc are default like described in the manual). I have the feeling if I roll it manually it is fine, but as far as I drive the car goes slightly to the right and I need to trim to the left. I tried already to change the tires from left to right and placed the accu from left to right but still the same effect. Hope somebody know why.
Thanks in advance
#8123
From my experience it sounds like the turnbuckle threads are pushing into the inside of the eyelit from either too short of camber link or too long of a turnbuckle? Check to see if you've got the right turnbuckle for the right link.
#8125
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
If you have the 6.1 make sure that the chub inserts are the same # and oriented correctly. Use a long(silver) ball stud and not a black one. The only other thing is that there is some problem with the top hat bushing. That bushing has to get clamped down against the steering block/knuckle. That bushing is installed from the inside of the chub. Make sure that it the flange portion is against the steering knuckle and there is no flashing/debris that locks it to the chub when tightening the ball stud.
#8126
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Oh yeah, most setup have a 1mm shim under the ball stud, the threads may be a tiny bit long if no shim is used.
#8128
So while repairing a broken C-hub I noticed that with the bushings both inserted number side up in the C-hub, it looks like they are at zero degrees of caster. The manual is non-specific and I read it as both bushings should have the number facing up.
Or should the front bushing be number side up and the rear bushing number side down?
Thanks,
Kane
Or should the front bushing be number side up and the rear bushing number side down?
Thanks,
Kane
#8129
Bearings
How often should the bearings need to be replaced in the TC6.1?
#8130
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
So while repairing a broken C-hub I noticed that with the bushings both inserted number side up in the C-hub, it looks like they are at zero degrees of caster. The manual is non-specific and I read it as both bushings should have the number facing up.
Or should the front bushing be number side up and the rear bushing number side down?
Thanks,
Kane
Or should the front bushing be number side up and the rear bushing number side down?
Thanks,
Kane