rfordrford

iTrader: (1)

Here is a pic of a couple toys. The GT2 RS has the 9886 exhaust and 41019 header with carvon fiber radio tray, rear shock towers and anti roll bars added the other car is an exam exer rtr and my trex 450

rfordrford

iTrader: (1)

One more pic up close

rfordrford

iTrader: (1)

A better pic

aquaanox

iTrader: (7)

need some help..


trying to figure out which motor is going to give me the best balance between acceleration and top speed for medium to large sized tracks on 4s lipo. thinking about the novak 1.5y or 2D BUT what are the gearing ratios stock ? what pinion and spur gear to use ?

for front and rear diff, transmission, other ?
trying to input values here and a bit lost since im new to this.. thanks guys..

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

C@T

Look for CalcRc. Most of the data is already in there.

Internal ratio is 3.3, standard pinion/spur is 12/48.

To do 50 mph you will need 3900 KV what is pretty high, or different gearing.

By the way, you are in the nitro section.

aquaanox

iTrader: (7)

thanks. yeah there is no electric thread for this car yet... that i could find ?

aquaanox

iTrader: (7)

that looks like its for the buggy.. not the gt2 ve race spec. kyosho has 8.95:1 listed but no idea where to actually plug that in.

dragonbat13

I am finally getting ready to finish my GT2. I got a 246 chassis, shoe type tranny, rebuilt and rebearinged the diffs, cleaned up the bulks and replaced broken parts. Also have a Picco P3 .28 being modded by ERCM along with an ERCM sidebleed in the works. The center drive shafts are still dogbone type, but all four corners have the Lightweight CVD (I think they are the lightweight versions) installed. I still got to get wheels and tires, but I plan on using Imp. belted groved tires.

This car isnt going to be raced, just a parking lot trick, So fuel economy isnt a concern, and a little drifting around may take place. Although speed runs are going to be its main use.

What I want to know are these things:
Is the chassis outdated, or is it good enough for what I want to do?
Is the tranny gonna handle the power of the Picco?
Where can I find the forest green audi body at? I see the Gulf body and the Vitaphone, but not the Forest green one with the red around the grille.

Take it easy.

rfordrford

iTrader: (1)

Here is a pic of newly painted bodies

rfordrford

iTrader: (1)

A pic of my Edam exer

gwilli2001us

In response to the GT8 class cars, GLARCRC does welcome and support the class, looks like 13 signed up so far for the Airtronics race in March. We would be happy to run the class at all other major events and club races,

We have also just recently confirmed that GT8 will be an invited class at the 1/5 scale international challenge this October.

I believe Henry C has confirmed that GT8 will be participating at the next club race, electric and nitro. being a new class this is what we will do to welcome you guys,

Awards 1st-3rd in GT8 Nitro and Electric A main

For the next 2 club races, Sunday race fee for GT8 will be $10.00
(Saturday practice still remains $10.00)

I will also coordinate with Henry C to discuss a possible points series at GLARCRC for the GT8 class beginning in march.

Hope this will entice you guys to come and race with us, it would definately give the class a good boost...BE THERE!!

Glenn Williams
President
GLARCRC

!prjctmax!

Hello,

I have a GT2 RS and am trying to mount a pull-start LRP30 in it but it seems as if I need to mod something. The rear of the motor seems too tall to mount flush with the chassis. I've seen a few pictures in this thread of people having motors with pull-starts and some using start boxes, so I'm curious how those that have the pull-start version of the LRP30 got it mounted?

Am I missing something totally obvious or is it because I'm that tired?

Thanks in advance,
Daniel

Winner's Circle

iTrader: (2)

Daniel,

The mount for the pull start on the LRP engine is too wide for the hole in the chassis and I think it also hits the motor mounts. The best thing to do is to replace the pull start with standard rear engine cover. Then the engine will drop straight in and you can start it with a starter box.

Steps involved;
1) disassemble the engine and remove the crankshaft
2) grind the smaller diameter tip off of the crank pin. I use a dremel to do this.
3) re-assemble the engine with a standard back plate part # ascLRP38111

Contact me if you have any questions and I will talk you through what needs to be done.

Lee

!prjctmax!

So there is no other alternative?

I know that starter boxes are the way to go, but I have never been a fan of them due to the extra cost and "baggage" when bashing, which is all that I do.

On the first page of this thread there is a LRP30 pull-start mounted in this vehicle, or am I seeing things? Is there a different mount that could be used instead? A Savage mount will not work, as I already tried that. Or are there spacers/washers that people have used to raise the mount?

Does the LRP28 have the same issue? I know that the backing plate/pull-start are a little smaller than the LRP30, but they are still larger and do not sit flush with the case like the stock motor does.

Winner's Circle

iTrader: (2)

The LRP 28, 30 and 32 all have same pull start.

I think once you use a starter box you will be glad. There is NOTHING worse that having to try to start a reluctant pull start engine using the pull starter.

I tried unsuccessfully to space the engine up. It probably can be done but I didn't have the correct stuff to do it. I would not try to use washers because I think you may end up having flex in the engine block that could result in it cracking.

Lee