BranVita

iTrader: (39)

Anyone else running chassis protectors on the 6?
If you are, what are you guys using?

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

I used red duct tape

K_King

iTrader: (47)

The RB5 didnt have the same adjustment.

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

is there going to be a release for black anodizing? saw black sprin adjusters on speed tech. anyone got any info?

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

True, but the optional front axle (the same one that is standard on the RB6) would allow you to widen the front end about 3mm, which made a big difference in cornering speed.

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

I just bought an rb6 and real excited when it comes in! However I was wondering if anyone knew if the scr-rb6 version short course truck is coming out? I see kyosho discontinued the scr-sp but I am really wanting to know! Thanks a lot for any info you have!

Mxer59

iTrader: (114)

+1 I asked this also cause I love my Rb6, but no one is quite sure.

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

I hope T-bone racing is reading this, their skid plate for the ZX-5 is good and compact.

Yeti AS3

iTrader: (77)

Im sure it will, but the date is unknown. There have been sightings.

Fusiongraphix

iTrader: (42)

Branden,

I'm currently making some chassis protectors for the rb6. I can make them a couple different ways, however you would like them. Clear or printed.. I currently use my motocross graphics film. It is highly durable with a aggressive adhesive. I have peeled mine up numerous times to get to the screws (tranny, battery posts, servo, etc.). And it keeps sticking. Doesn't leave any glue residue either. I believe it's around 20 mils thick.

If you or anyone else is interested PM me for more questions. I have a ton of different designs and can do any color combo and add logos if you want.

I'll try and post some pics tomorrow.

If anyone is wondering what I charge, I think I'm going to do 1 set for $16, 2 sets (duplicate) for $28. I know they can get expensive replacing them all the time so I'm trying to make them affordable.

I hope to have some RC products on our new website soon when it launches.

Thank you

Tyson
[email protected]

Fusiongraphix

iTrader: (42)

I found this pic of my chassis protector that I had on my 22T, I just sold this truck, but if gives you an idea of what they look like.

I can always remake the template with some of the holes cut out as well?

Maybe everyone give me some feedback on if you guys would want holes or not?

Thanks and sorry to butt in on the thread, just wanted to show everyone my cool chassis protectors.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Just run mine without chassis protection. This aluminums harder than my 8th scaler have hardly any scratches on mine yet! Tbone will make the ride height tough to adjust to setup sheets. Hope DE racing or someone with actual mould making capacity makes a skid plate. The tbones are nice but only bent pieces of delrin which would make the fit dodgy.

Fusiongraphix

iTrader: (42)

Here is my body wrap for the 22T to match the chassis protector.

My chassis protectors also allow you to match your paint scheme, protect your chassis from scratches. Helps it look brand new for resale value, and really affordable compared to other skid plates or guards? They are very light weight, super smooth so they don't affect drag.

So not only do they protect, but mainly for looks I suppose.

Anyways, I will post some pics of my RB6's body wrap and chassis protector tomorrow. I also have the finisher body coming and plan to do a wrap on that.

RogerM

This is from my post originally. I race a lot with Chris S on the same high grip astroturf / carpet tracks.

The reason I did it was when I first got the RB6 I found it was very darty & pointy to the level that I was having to take 3 bites at most high speed turns.
I'd turn, the car would bite hard so I'd reduce lock to stop it hooking then it would start to push lightly so I'd have to get back on the lock.
Certainly not the easiest or fastest way around the track.


The car was very good over the bumps and had good / balanced grip but just needed smoothing out a little to build confidence, reversing the rack did that.

The difference is 1.25mm, I often combine that with a low height ball stud so -2.25mm over the normal rack position with no spacers.
This gives a significant ackerman reduction / change thus smoothing the car.

I like a car with a lot of mid-exit steering but that isn't too pointy / agressive on the way in.

I'm currently trying a different link combinaiton which may mean I go back to closer to the stock ackerman, time will tell.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

well.. not AT the pivot, but close. With a 2mm shim in the rear, the arm is so far forward that the very inner front of the arm hits where the chassis starts to taper inwards towards the back of the car. Just a smidge. I have a .5mm shim in front, and 1.5 in the back, and it's perfect. The arm is shimmed forward, and just barely no contact with the chassis.