Josh L

iTrader: (1)

So with this new setup I am supposed to run 22 springs?...
In the post you listed before, posted above (Ten Springs).
So I assumed I still needed to purchase those and bought both sets.
Are these not the right ones now? I really don't get this spring deal. What fits what exactly. The setup sheets shows a 22 t front and a 22 (buggy I assume) rear? How many spring sets do I need exactly to use the new shocks as they are intended?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

SCTE stock shocks are larger OD so you need special springs for those shocks. You can either run the original stock SCTE springs or run the racing spring set as I posed above.

If upgrade to the 22 shocks for the SCTE you open the door to a whole library of springs as the shock body OD is not a more standard size. You can use any of the 22 series springs as well springs from Avid, Durango, AE, Kyosho and many others who have "big bore" 12mm shock springs. However your SCTE specific springs will not longer work as they the diameter is too large to fit on the spring purches.

gagagugu

Pertaining to the SCTE, could someone give me an opinion on JC Barcode Gold vs PL Suburb MC?

MC is described as 'firm'. I really don't want to go much firmer than Gold.

I like my Gold Barcodes. Want to try the Suburbs, but never had any tires in the MC compound; don't know what they feel like. I have run Suburbs in other compounds, and like them.

Homer723

Every clay track around here gold barcodes or dirt webs worked better for me than MC suburbs. But tires are very track dependent so I would ask some local racers or bite the bullet and buy some. Just remember clay tires usually need to be broken in before they work their best.

I also tried silver dirt webs which are super soft clay but they were slower than gold so sometimes softer isn't better.

jay_959

I'm having trouble getting a ride height of 25mm with the new 22 shocks.

running the stock setup for them, hole positions 2-outside for front and 2, middle for rear(gonna try 2-inside for rear).

the shock collars are all the way down on the rear and I'm getting a ride height of 21mm. anyone else have this problem.


Jason Chafe
Skycraft Hobbies

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Are you not able to get the correct ride height front or rear?

jay_959

Nope, I could probably get the front close to 25mm but not really a point when my rear wont go any higher then 21mm. putting my rear shock tower to 2-inside instead of 2-middle might help a little but don't think t will give me the 4mm I need. running stock spring sent in 22 shock package.

-3 chassis, 5.11lbs, body off.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Did you put the rear tower on that came in the kit? My car gets to 25mm ride height easily, they is something assembled improperly here.

jay_959

yes I did install it. and its shorter then the original by quit a bit.

I will go over anything again tonight just to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. you run the rear at shocks at 2-inside?

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Yes sir, I do

Fader12

iTrader: (1)

I was going to ask the question and this could be your ride height problem. The kit comes with two different spring cups. One is taller so does that go on the front? Frank, Casper ????

jay_959

well that's one thing I did overlook ... dammit lol. at work now, I will take a look at lunch.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yes the tall spring cups would go on the front springs as shown in the photo for the kit on the TLR site.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR334029

Jack Bonhomme

I've been running the stock long Ackermann steering rack bar on my SCTE since day 1. I'm about to switch to the short bar. What changes in steering performance /turn radius can I expect to gain or lose?

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

The steering will be more agressive especially off center. It may be too much but you can add some expo on the radio to calm it down.