QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I did a bit of tuning this week and had good results. I've been complaining that the Reedy Mach 2 8.0 that I've been using is too fast so I turned the punch down on the esc and turned my epa down to 80-85% and it helped immensely. The truck still wheelies a tad on bald x2 suburbs but its much more controllable. I also laid the rear shocks down which also helped get the lap back that I lost going to the 8.0

robbie_gtc

iTrader: (7)

Hard packed clay sugared surface(Not crazy sugared. It still gives up some dust. Blue groove forms towardse nd of day) I can get atleast 2-3 race days on X2's but like I said one the surface mentioned in the o.p i myself would run x2's in a suburb or barcode deja vu tread not pins.

Gigasipke

iTrader: (4)

Another 2nd place finish this weekend on our loose outdoor track. I did break my first part though. So during the warm up laps of the 2nd Main, my truck wasn't tracking correctly, I didn't really have time to adjust for it, and off throttle it was fine. Anyway the rear right a-arm cracked at the rear hinge pin point at the chassis. The crack went about halfway down the hinge point and this allowed the arm to flex back quite a bit. It created a very odd feeling between the on and off throttle transition. I had thought that maybe a ball stud backed off allowing odd camber changes. Not sure when it happened, I didn't have any bad crashes, like hooking the rear tire on a pipe. New set on order, hopefully it arrives before the next race. I do love this generation of TA vehicles, my son has a B5M and it has only ever broke one front A-Arm, and that was a direct flight into a pole.

VegasHB

Finished up a custom stand for the T5M

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

I haven't raced truck off road in 20+ years. I've been run oval and road. Gave both up because the nearest tracks are 2 1/2 hours away.

They're opening a 80 x 50 clay indoor track about 2 miles from me. I bought a T5M. I like to build things one time. I plan on running either 17.5 or 13.5 (old age 65, reactions are slower).

I have the following:
Tekin RS G2
FutabaRadio T3pk & receivers
And all the basic things

After reading 30+ pages here I'm ordering the following:

Associated 5X10X4mm Factory Team Bearing (Qty 4) 91560
Associated Front Arm Hard T5M
Associated Rear Arm Hard T5M
Associated Set Screw M3Associated Rear Arm Hard T5Mx0.5x8 (6)
Futaba S9452 Digital High-Speed/Torque Servo
RPM 80232 Mini Front Bumper,Black
Team Associated B5M 3-Gear Transmission Set Blue
SMC Race Formula 7.4V 5800mAh 70C Square (I have been running SMC for years)
B5M Chassis Brace With Fan Mounting
TQ wire 13ga. (Been running Ralph's wire before they available to the public)

Now for my biggest question, what additional would you recommend in English with part numbers. Half of what a read is Greek to me with short names, etc.

Tires and wheels?
Springs front and rear?

Who has a decent motor builder, I know there is one in Mooresville but can remember his name.

Any and all suggestion accepted!!

Thanks,

Rick

robdel24

iTrader: (14)

Has anyone tried the MIP Pucks fro their T5M yet. Wondering if it is worth it for the 13.5 class? Thanks.

VegasHB

Wheels shouldn't matter a whole lot, Jconcepts or Associated seem dandy.
Jconcepts # 3354W
Associated # 7852

Tire's are a big guess, Proline Electrons, Jconcepts Dirt Webs or AKA Chainlinks seem to be the go to nowadays. The compound really depends on the clay they use and how wet the keep it. Most guys run a clay compound like the Proline MC but here at our indoor we have to run black/M4/super/ultra soft compounds. You won't know until you can run the track but maybe start with the clay compound.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/tires-t...14_846&lg=fa14

Motor builder? With brushless most guys just buy a good stock 17.5 motor like the Trinity D4. If you're running stock 17.5 or superstock 13.5 most people frown on tinkering with the motor. I'd just get a decent brushless and be done with it. You can always change the timing with the speed control if you need more pop so long as you're not in a stock class.

Springs, most guys are getting the Kyosho Gold Springs for this truck.
Front: KYOXGS024
Rear: KYOXGS034

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Hard arms aren't necessary starting out, they will just break faster.
DE Racing makes some sweet wheels!
Tires? All depends on your track? Ions, Electrons (coming soon), Pressure Points, Chain Links, DirtwebsBar Codes, Suburbs, etc... Compounds tracks dependent.
Fantom makes some sweet motors! Otherwise Reedy or Trinity and your good to go!
Schelle ceramic gearbox bearings are a sweet upgrade!

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

These! ^ They are awesome but a lil pricey! $$$ But worth it!

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

thanks

VegasHB

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

What does the Fox say.....

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

These make Kyosho shocks look cheap!
If anything I'd get the Kyosho velvets but to me the stock shocks are just fine, I'm just getting the Kyosho springs!

HBRob

iTrader: (61)

Ran them on 17.5, they were great. Perfect length and a great rotating mass savings when running stock. Don't know how they would hold up on a mod motor though, may be ok on 13.5. Personally havent tried.

iScream

iTrader: (12)

I like that. Mind if I ask where you got the swivel head?