1Likes3 in 1 oil question
09-30-2010, 07:28 AM
#31
I have a home brew of marvel,air tool oil,tranny fluid " any one should be fine"& 50% wd 40 that you get in the gallon. I use 2-3 times as much as ARO to flush well it doesn't stall the motor or hammer plug ,because of over compression, Started using the wd cause the oil was too hard for my daughter to pull over we first pull start RC motor with ARO. I use same in boats they get drowned. I use the pure ARO for long term storage. Always thru the carb never remove plug on my off road when after running"DIRT".
09-30-2010, 08:52 AM
#32
I don't beleive in running a motor dry, it leans out the motor momentarily before it dies. Just saying.....
09-30-2010, 09:05 AM
#33
can I use wd-40??
09-30-2010, 09:15 AM
#34
WD will flush out motor very well"use more" but drys up quickly twice a week driving should work great. But for $2 a qt tranny should last a life time . Marval has a nice tiny air tool oil bottle flip top disp works perfect,just the bottle worth the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Marvel-MM080R-...N%3DB000BQSYJ2
http://www.amazon.com/Marvel-MM080R-...N%3DB000BQSYJ2
09-30-2010, 09:28 AM
#35
ok
09-30-2010, 01:40 PM
#36
Tech Addict
Temps don't skyrocket and there's always some lube on the parts. I know many people who have done this for years. One has done it since before I was even born on every engine and it doesn't have any issues. I'd rather burn out all the fuel than dump it out in the environment or leave it sit in the tank.
09-30-2010, 02:15 PM
#38
Tech Addict
09-30-2010, 02:36 PM
#39
Why not getting a bottle of afterrun?
Tonight I have bought 2 bottles Tornado Afterrun and did cost me just a little bit less than 3 euro a bottle, it isn't the cost.....
09-30-2010, 03:27 PM
#40
Get a piece of steel, scrub it of rust and get it shining, pour a little fuel on one area, and then add a couple of drops of the oil u plan to use on the fuel and on some bare metal
Leave it over night and check to see if the oil reacted with the fuel in an adverse way and or reacted with metal. Leave it longer to see if it protects from rust.
10-02-2010, 06:28 AM
#41
I'll back up the full synthetic tranny fluid, (although i used castrol)
I dipped one corner of a paper towel in the bottle until about 1 in is saturated....then just use that corner to wipe around the sleeve and on top of the piston. Just rotate the whole assembly a couple of times and your set. *This might not be the best idea but it works.*
*It's kind of similar to coating a cylinder block after a engine rebuild.
I dipped one corner of a paper towel in the bottle until about 1 in is saturated....then just use that corner to wipe around the sleeve and on top of the piston. Just rotate the whole assembly a couple of times and your set. *This might not be the best idea but it works.*
*It's kind of similar to coating a cylinder block after a engine rebuild.
10-02-2010, 06:51 AM
#42
Tech Addict
I'll back up the full synthetic tranny fluid, (although i used castrol)
I dipped one corner of a paper towel in the bottle until about 1 in is saturated....then just use that corner to wipe around the sleeve and on top of the piston. Just rotate the whole assembly a couple of times and your set. *This might not be the best idea but it works.*
*It's kind of similar to coating a cylinder block after a engine rebuild.
I dipped one corner of a paper towel in the bottle until about 1 in is saturated....then just use that corner to wipe around the sleeve and on top of the piston. Just rotate the whole assembly a couple of times and your set. *This might not be the best idea but it works.*
*It's kind of similar to coating a cylinder block after a engine rebuild.
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