16LikesSerpent S411
03-15-2013, 12:21 AM
#5328
Hey guys,
Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.
Regards Benzaah
Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.
Regards Benzaah
03-15-2013, 02:24 AM
#5329
Hey guys,
Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.
Regards Benzaah
Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.
Regards Benzaah
03-15-2013, 09:05 PM
#5330
The ERYX is a very tough car right out of the box. It doesn't really require any additional parts to be as competitive as any of the other touring cars out there. Its very responsive to setup changes and parts fit and finish are very good. No real issues to speak of during the assembly.
I would probably go back the last 10 to 15 pages of this forum and you'll get a good idea of the car and then check out the Serpent web site for the specific car that has a lot of info attached to it as well.
If you have more specific questions just ask on here.
03-15-2013, 09:11 PM
#5331
Hey guys,
Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.
Regards Benzaah
Another local and I were testing different diff oils last weekend and we came to the conclusion the amount of oil in the diff can make the diff feel different even though it may have the same cst oil in it. I'd like to put out there an idea regarding diff building and the consistency we could achieve by having a standard measure to fill to rather than a vauge line in the manual. Some of you more hardcore tech heads may already do this. Xray have instructions with the weight of the diff half with oil in it as a way of building them consistently. I want to see if some of you guys can weigh your diff halfs so we can compare how much oil we are putting in them. I am most likely guilty of slightly under filling my diffs whereas my mate will often over fill them to the point they will weep a little when putting together. This may take a while to compile the test data but next time you build a diff and you have some scales handy please weigh the half and post it up here. I will have some data up after Sunday when my next lot of diff building will take place.
Regards Benzaah
03-15-2013, 09:15 PM
#5332
03-15-2013, 09:42 PM
#5333
How well does the Eryx hold its setup from run to run in the midst of flapper tapping, dot hopping, and traction rolls? Nothing major, just the little stuff that happens club racing. With my schuis, no matter how clean my run is, I have to de-tweak the top deck, adjust hinge pin blocks, and reset droop, just to be sure the car will drive the same.
-Mike
-Mike
03-15-2013, 10:58 PM
#5334
How well does the Eryx hold its setup from run to run in the midst of flapper tapping, dot hopping, and traction rolls? Nothing major, just the little stuff that happens club racing. With my schuis, no matter how clean my run is, I have to de-tweak the top deck, adjust hinge pin blocks, and reset droop, just to be sure the car will drive the same.
-Mike
-Mike
03-16-2013, 07:49 AM
#5335
How well does the Eryx hold its setup from run to run in the midst of flapper tapping, dot hopping, and traction rolls? Nothing major, just the little stuff that happens club racing. With my schuis, no matter how clean my run is, I have to de-tweak the top deck, adjust hinge pin blocks, and reset droop, just to be sure the car will drive the same.
-Mike
-Mike
03-16-2013, 08:03 AM
#5336
The ERYX is a very tough car right out of the box. It doesn't really require any additional parts to be as competitive as any of the other touring cars out there. Its very responsive to setup changes and parts fit and finish are very good. No real issues to speak of during the assembly.
I would probably go back the last 10 to 15 pages of this forum and you'll get a good idea of the car and then check out the Serpent web site for the specific car that has a lot of info attached to it as well.
If you have more specific questions just ask on here.
I would probably go back the last 10 to 15 pages of this forum and you'll get a good idea of the car and then check out the Serpent web site for the specific car that has a lot of info attached to it as well.
If you have more specific questions just ask on here.
Its a solid car, tweak change hasn't been a issue with the car, speaking from running from one extreme to the other on top decks. The hinge pin blocks haven't been a issue, so far. At the last race I attended, traction was way up there and never really had any roll issues to speak of.........car seems planted and pretty stable. Its a very good club warrior car, about the strongest car I have ever run........the new parts are very strong.
The car is very nicely responsive to changes as well, and will back up the build being very good, with the singular exception of the inserts into the new arms for the roll-bars. However, Serpent are aware of that issue, and no doubt will be fixed v.soon, if not having done so already.
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone;
Probably a good idea. If you're going to do this and collect the info you should also take into account if its a V1, V2, or V2 with the composite gears, 2 gears or 4 gears............if you get what I mean.....we just seem to have a lot of build and parts variables......steel out drives, aluminum cross pins..........
03-16-2013, 09:54 AM
#5337
+1000 no question about it.
03-16-2013, 11:23 AM
#5338
To make exact measurement of how much oil I use in the diff, I weigh the diff just before adding oil, then add oil slowly until there is total 1.6grams of oil in the diff. With that 1.6 grams I found it out to be completely full, very little to no leaking initially from the screw holes when closed.
03-16-2013, 11:57 AM
#5339
I've been using front diffs frequently and I've found that if you don't fill it completely, you lose damping after a few laps. I assume the oil is migrating and leaving voids around the gears. So for the sake of consistency, I try to fill all my diffs completely with a bit of overflow when you put the housing together.
03-16-2013, 04:15 PM
#5340
Last weekend was the Regina leg of the WCICS series. I'm a bit behind the times, still running the TE chassis but they are still working great 
I started out with the Yokomo pink/blue spring combo, but the grip was a bit low when the track was fresh and the car was difficult to drive. So I went to Serpent yellow springs up front and it really calmed things down. This setup was good to take TQ in both 17.5 and Mod.
However, by the last qualifier the grip was getting to the point were I was on the verge of traction rolling. I should know by now I should not make setup changes right before the main, but I chickened out and only sauced half the front for the 17.5 main
That turned out to be a fatal mistake as the car was 3/10ths slower than the last qualifier. I was pushing hard to maintain the lead, but of course made a big driving error. Then the car was just not fast enough to mount a comeback and I held on for 2nd place. I had the chance to clinch the points title in 17.5 with this race, but I still have the lead going into the final race at my home track.
In the Mod main I did not repeat the same mistake. I reduced the front sauce only slightly and the car was pretty good. It lost a bit of corner speed, but it was very safe and still fast enough to win. It was exactly what I wanted because I hoped to just run consistent laps and make no mistakes from the pole. Everything went according to plan and I led the entire race until the very last lap when I got spun by a backmarker
That was just enough for 2nd place to squeeze by, and I finished the last lap in 2nd. That cost me not only the win but also the points lead in Mod, so that was pretty frustrating! I feel pretty good going into the series finale, but it's going to be a tough battle.
In hindsight, I think I should have gone back to the pink/blue spring combo on Saturday when the grip came up. It works great at my home track, and I haven't had grip roll issues with that setup.
Looking forward to upgrading to the new kit in the fall, but the TE chassis has been awesome. I will be a little sad to retire it
Regina WCICS 2013 setup (S411 TE)
I started out with the Yokomo pink/blue spring combo, but the grip was a bit low when the track was fresh and the car was difficult to drive. So I went to Serpent yellow springs up front and it really calmed things down. This setup was good to take TQ in both 17.5 and Mod.
However, by the last qualifier the grip was getting to the point were I was on the verge of traction rolling. I should know by now I should not make setup changes right before the main, but I chickened out and only sauced half the front for the 17.5 main
That turned out to be a fatal mistake as the car was 3/10ths slower than the last qualifier. I was pushing hard to maintain the lead, but of course made a big driving error. Then the car was just not fast enough to mount a comeback and I held on for 2nd place. I had the chance to clinch the points title in 17.5 with this race, but I still have the lead going into the final race at my home track.In the Mod main I did not repeat the same mistake. I reduced the front sauce only slightly and the car was pretty good. It lost a bit of corner speed, but it was very safe and still fast enough to win. It was exactly what I wanted because I hoped to just run consistent laps and make no mistakes from the pole. Everything went according to plan and I led the entire race until the very last lap when I got spun by a backmarker
That was just enough for 2nd place to squeeze by, and I finished the last lap in 2nd. That cost me not only the win but also the points lead in Mod, so that was pretty frustrating! I feel pretty good going into the series finale, but it's going to be a tough battle.In hindsight, I think I should have gone back to the pink/blue spring combo on Saturday when the grip came up. It works great at my home track, and I haven't had grip roll issues with that setup.
Looking forward to upgrading to the new kit in the fall, but the TE chassis has been awesome. I will be a little sad to retire it
Regina WCICS 2013 setup (S411 TE)