Hpi Pro 4
#2521
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
while in the subject... what parts should i get?
aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)
I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...
I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.
i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...
O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)
I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...
I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.
i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...
O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
#2522
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by Super Steve
while in the subject... what parts should i get?
aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)
I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...
I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.
i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...
O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
while in the subject... what parts should i get?
aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)
I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...
I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.
i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...
O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
#2523
Tech Adept
What's recommended gearing for a Chameleon 19T on a pretty wide open track with a 150-200' straight? With stock spur.
thanks.
thanks.
#2525
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by Super Steve
while in the subject... what parts should i get?
aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)
I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...
I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.
i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...
O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
while in the subject... what parts should i get?
aluminum knuckles, steering bellcranks, servo mounts, tobee input outdrives (i thought speedtech had them but they aren't there anymore), I will also need extra cvd bones (are tobee ones the same? MIP ones are $$$ compared to tobee)
I think that would cover the exterior of the pro4...
I don't see the need to anodize the oneway or that prp plate that is coming out.
i would have to polish the titanium turnbuckes...
O, should i get those hotbodies bumper standoff anodized?
What about body posts? should i also get some pivote blocks?
I don't know if i should, but should i also get the front c hub and the rear hub carrier too? i just don't want to buy it, get them done in green and bend them...
haven't driven mine yet, but strongly believe this thing will take a beating... truly an impressive platform..
just get an extra set of front hubs and carriers... and maybe a couple ring and bevel gears.. well, that's what i would do...
Yo HPI!.... this thing is NICE!!!...
#2526
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
the shop up here in canada will charge 70 buckscad... (around 50usd)
but i don't know if i really want to do it anymore...
The reason being that what if i break a green part that i don't have spare for!
But i am gonna think about it...
what do you think a bad driver will break?
I can only think about CVD bones aluminum wise...
becase breaking aluminum knuckle was impossible for me.
o, maybe aluminum body posts... are they easy to bend/ break?
but i don't know if i really want to do it anymore...
The reason being that what if i break a green part that i don't have spare for!
But i am gonna think about it...
what do you think a bad driver will break?
I can only think about CVD bones aluminum wise...
becase breaking aluminum knuckle was impossible for me.
o, maybe aluminum body posts... are they easy to bend/ break?
#2527
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by Super Steve
the shop up here in canada will charge 70 buckscad... (around 50usd)
but i don't know if i really want to do it anymore...
The reason being that what if i break a green part that i don't have spare for!
But i am gonna think about it...
what do you think a bad driver will break?
I can only think about CVD bones aluminum wise...
becase breaking aluminum knuckle was impossible for me.
o, maybe aluminum body posts... are they easy to bend/ break?
the shop up here in canada will charge 70 buckscad... (around 50usd)
but i don't know if i really want to do it anymore...
The reason being that what if i break a green part that i don't have spare for!
But i am gonna think about it...
what do you think a bad driver will break?
I can only think about CVD bones aluminum wise...
becase breaking aluminum knuckle was impossible for me.
o, maybe aluminum body posts... are they easy to bend/ break?
I've seen aluminum C-hubs bend...but they can be bent back...
#2529
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by Super Steve
oic..
it looks like you have front body posts?
where did you get them and are they available for rear?
how are tobee aluminum drive cups... show any slight wear yet?
oic..
it looks like you have front body posts?
where did you get them and are they available for rear?
how are tobee aluminum drive cups... show any slight wear yet?
Tobee has the rears coming out soon.
I just installed the Tobee drive cups...so I don't know how durable they will be.... will probably put back the stock ones.. I have the Square version coming soon... want to buy the Tobee cups from me too...
#2534
Re: ONE WAY BRACE
Originally posted by rc-zombies
will you be including the 2mmx10 countersink screws? hope so...they're hard to fine...
will you be including the 2mmx10 countersink screws? hope so...they're hard to fine...
My post may be in violation of the site rules since it is like an advertising post, even though I was just asking if there is interest in this part. But it kind of turned into an order list!?! I didn't expect that. I won't post any more of our parts until I become a registered advertiser. Please stay on the lookout for our stuff though. I have a passion for this stuff and I think our parts are going to make a very good impression on fellow racers.
Thanks again, guys!
Ben
#2535
Repeat Question
Without having to go back through all of this what is the proper way to treat the gears?
Thanks,
Thanks,