InspGadgt

Maybe more caster as Ph3nyx suggested. I've noticed on our asphalt track in general F1 cars have a lot of high speed push entering a corner...F104, F-109, SP-1, all had this push. The only thing I could do on all the cars to get it driveable was a lot of drag brake to load up the front suspension. Tomorrow I"ll be testing my new WTF-1 at the same track...I'm curious to see if it suffers from the same issue.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Makes sense... I'll give that a try.
My setup is pretty much stock except for the steering servo and battery location. I'm trying toward the back at the moment as it seemed to help with my VBC F1. I might return it to the stock location if I can't get it sorted quickly.

Anyone else try the battery toward the rear?
Been running on Pavement but starting to race on the rug for the winter.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Same here with regards to the drag brake. The softer springs on the WTF1 seems to be well suited for Asphalt but tires seem to be a bit more critical than on carpet. I think I definitely need some quality time setting up the WTF1 going forward.

InspGadgt

With my other F1 cars we did try the battery in the back but the car just didn't feel right...it was too unstable on our bumpy banked straights. With the WTF-1 I'm starting with the battery forward. Well I'm off to the track to get some time on the new F1

nwagner

iTrader: (6)

Anyone else having problems with diff slip exiting corners and straight line on carpet? I'm setting it tight as possible while still allowing the car to rotate properly (spur is well past locked by hand). It's so tight that it's causing slight tire chattering but after about 2-3min the diff starts some heavy spinning and only gets worse as time ticks by which is destroying acceleration and lap times.

goneracin

iTrader: (22)

check to see if the stud is pulling out of the axle. same exact thing happened to mine. Im hoping the replacement doesnt have this same issue

InspGadgt

Ok YoDog...got some good running in today on asphalt with my WTF-1 and am really pleased with the results. First a little background:

Previously I was running the SP-1 with the Pit Shimizu 574 fronts and 572 rears with drag brake on my Tekin RS set at 40. Obviously I was having turning issues with that setup.

Went to the IIC and the SP-1 with the TCS tires was a bit agressive so I turned down the drag brake to 10. The car was still pretty bad and I ended up breaking a steering knuckle in every qualifier. After the 3rd qualifier I was ready to drop kick the car and bought the WTF-1 and set it up box stock except for the tubes which are 10k instead of 5k. The WTF-1 was much better in the main than my SP-1 and while I did roll it a few times it was driveable. If I had a couple more runs on the car I could have got it dialed nicely.

So today I finally get some track time in at the local track. Initial run with the WTF-1 I didn't change anything. The first few minutes the car was on ice while the tires broke in. Once the tires were broken in the car felt decent for a first run. It had a bit more push than the SP-1 but was running a lot less drag brake so the turn in would have been as good with more drag brake.

I took the car back to the pits and changed the caster shims to all back and upped the camber from 1* to 2*. I didn't bring my hotwire so I had to keep the low drag brake and only work on mechanical changes. Back out on the track again with the TCS tires and the car felt improved. Now it was turning in as good as the SP-1 even with the low drag brake.

I then went back to the pits and swapped the tires out to the Pit Shimizu 574/572 combination and man was the car good. Not only did it turn better, but it felt way more settled as well. Like any F1 on asphalt with rubber tires there was still a push but it was manageable and better than my previous car that had a lot more testing on it. I still think it needs some more drag brake only because the heavy rubber tires with 21.5 motor just coasts forever without slowing down and I'm too used to the old brushed motors to use push brake. The only place I really need it is coming off the sweeper unlike the old car which needed brakes at nearly every corner.

So here's my quick setup...just a couple changes from box stock:

Front
Camber: 2*
Caster: both shims back
Ride height: 4mm (1mm shims between the lower arm and mounting block)
Droop: 1.5mm

Rear
Ride Height: 4mm
Droop: .3mm
Tubes: AE 10k oil

I do plan to raise the ride height to 5mm because our track is banked and bumpy, and increase the drag brake a little bit. Outside of that I think the car is where it needs to be.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Thanks for the update.
I raced mine on carpet for the first time this past Sunday. As my caster was already all the way back, I decided to go with -2* camber and hard rear tires. The steering came back with a vengeance. Now traction rolling in the sweeper.
I changed to hard fronts and only half sauce. The push came back for about the first 5 laps then stabilized. The second qualifier... Full sauce and for a longer duration. Steering was wicked for the first 5-7 laps with some TR in the sweeper again then stabilized. For the main I ran full sauce and soaked for only 3 minutes. Best all round performance from beginning to end. Now just need to work on the softer fronts to get the TR under control and I should be dialed. The battery towards the back was good but need to run the next race with it forward for comparison. Overall it was a good first outing on carpet with a 3rd place finish in the A. With more practice and time on the setup, I hope to be on pace with the fast guys soon enough.

CarbonJoe

What servo saver is needed for use with the tiny Airtronics servo?

dumper

iTrader: (1)

Kimbrough 12th scale. KIM113

tangtester

iTrader: (5)

Hey guy
Take a look at a new chassis brace for the CRC f1 car

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...sis-brace.html

jarkko

Run into a strange problem with front wheels/rims when finishing the building of my new WTF-1.

I have a set of the official ETS Formula class tyres:
RIDE pre glued tires and wheels are allowed, Front: 26022 and Rear: 26023

The wheel does not fit on the CRC because the kingpin is longer than what fits inside the rim and thus the wheel is not going fully in the axle.

In the picture is the kingpin vs. rim situation.
http://kuusinen.pp.fi/CRC%20WTF1%20front%20wheel.jpg
Already double checked from the instructions that it is built correctly. Problem continues even if I screw the kingpin all in into the steering block.

Maby people use wheels with bigger diameter rims on the CRC'c? The inside diameter of the Ride rim is 37,5 mm.

Please, can anyone measure the inside diameter of a front rim you use on a CRC WTF1.

Thanks
Jarkko

terry.sc

Yes, it's a known problem that Ride front wheels are too small for the CRC kingpin. Any other front wheel will work fine, but Ride just modified their F103 front wheel mould when they made the wheels, so they are smaller than other wheels.

If you have to use Ride tyres then you can either try shortening the kingpin, or use the CRC Gen-X10 kingpins.

InspGadgt

With the shorter kingpins you will probably need to switch to the 1/12th springs as well. If the GenX 10 kingpins are still too long maybe the GenX 12 kingpins...but with those you will probably need to take the spacers out from between the arm and the knuckle.

nwagner

iTrader: (6)

Those rims look pretty shallow on the inside and it doesn't appear that you have it shimmed at all. Is it possible that you can shim the front end out to 189-190mm and possibly the wheel will clear the axle horizontally? The wheels may be offset already to make the car wider, trying never hurt though.