YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Probably Acer...

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

Avid auroa's

Lord_Darkhelmet

I want to upgrade my TC6.2 with TC7 arms, C-hubs and rear hubs. From what I gather the stock tc6.2 knuckles should be used to maintain the steering geometry.

Question #1 is where is a good place to start with the suspension pill mounts? The tc6.2 has the front suspension mounts the same distance apart as the TC7. So for up front I was going to use 2 dot facing out for both outer and inner.

The rear inner suspension mounts are actually closer together on the TC6.2, so using pill mount numbers for a TC7 will result in a slightly narrower rear track width.

Question #2, does the arm change necessitate using more of a TC7 setup or will a good TC6.2 setup still be about right?

I'm using stock carbon chassis with stock shocks outfitted with Yokomo pink up front and Yokomo blue in rear. Carpet is medium traction grey stuff.

TC5Driven

iTrader: (13)

The 6.2 was and still is a great car. If you want a 7 that bad I would wait another month or so and people will be selling 7's that are fairly new because they all want the 7.1 now. You will be able to find a rolling chassis 7 for a good price. But if you don't want a used one just sell your 6.2 and buy the 7.1. Trying to upgrade is just a waste of money in my opinion.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

There aren't many new parts on the 7.1. It's cheaper to upgrade from a 7 to 7.1 than it is to sell the old car and buy the new. I wouldn't expect that many second hand 7s to flood the market as a result of the 7.1.

TC5Driven

iTrader: (13)

I believe he was talking about upgrading a 6.2 to a 7, but who knows I've been wrong before. however you are correct about upgrading from a 7 to a 7.1.

hobbs

iTrader: (32)

Let do some calculation.

Upgrade to 7.1, you need
80 x 2 = 160
5 x 2 = 10
35 x 2 = 70
16 + 20 = 36
40
15
Total = USD 331

A new tc7.1 = USD 470

I will def go for a new TC7.1, instead of upgrade.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I'm aware, however I was replying to the suggestion to just buy a 7 since there will be plenty now that the 7.1 is out. I wouldn't expect there to be plenty.

G the Menace

iTrader: (71)

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bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The 7.1 shocks are the real difference maker, no matter the chassis...

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I have a TC6.2 that I run in VTA. It's been a very competitive car for that class. However, I'm having trouble setting the car up on my scales. I have to crank the left rear shock all the way up and it still has too much weight on it. I ended up shortening this shock by cutting down the bottom eyelet some to get good weight readings.

The car sits flat and is not tweaked. But I did some more investigating and the distance from the chassis to the shock mount up on the tower is .050" shorter on the left side. I loosened the shock tower and tried to get it square but it wants to settle back to this reading after tightening the screws since they are countersunk. I wonder if I have a bad shock tower, has anyone else had this issue? Thanks..

EDIT: I just had a thought. I am upgrading my TC7 to a TC7.1, so I will have left over bearing caps, shock towers, and shocks. Will the TC7 bearings caps fit the TC6.2? The center to center distance between mounting screws is the same.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Can you post a photo from the rear of the car? That doesn't sound right. Also, make sure the lower ball stud location on the rear arms is the same each side.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

Photo doesn't show much because .050" isn't much. But I did double check the shock locations. Same hole on the arm and the second from inside on the shock tower.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Shock towers have a weave pattern in them, 0.050" should be fairly visible by comparing the holes offset to the weave pattern. How are you measuring the lengths between shock mounts? Holding the arms at full extent and using calipers? Are the droop settings equal? Are any of the shock mount studs/screws bent? Have you double checked the spacer or arm mount block settings to ensure they're equal too?

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

I was always told when scaling a car at the 4 corners to remove the shocks because if you do not you are going to get the weight differances in the springs as well.