Ask Aaron Waldron
04-12-2004, 02:12 AM
#16
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Last edited by Gabe Boudreau; 10-19-2005 at 05:07 PM.
04-12-2004, 05:24 AM
#17
Aaron good to see you over here man, I was not sure if you knew there were any sites other than the grid 
. Congrats on your last year man, you are doing great. I am pretty sure I caught a glimpse of you in Xtreme RC or RC car in the last couple of months as well.
. Congrats on your last year man, you are doing great. I am pretty sure I caught a glimpse of you in Xtreme RC or RC car in the last couple of months as well.
04-12-2004, 12:09 PM
#19
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Last edited by Gabe Boudreau; 10-19-2005 at 05:08 PM.
04-12-2004, 12:26 PM
#20
Aaron,
Are you the race director from the US GAS CHAMPS?
If so you did an awesome job.
Are you the race director from the US GAS CHAMPS?
If so you did an awesome job.
04-12-2004, 10:32 PM
#21
Gabe - Man those were the days... it was really a bummer to see MnM disappear into the sunset.
slodsm - Actually, it was someone else from the Grid that asked me to help out over here!
Thanks for the props..last year was a long time in the making.
TambokGT - That was me..and thanks! That was a lot of fun.
Aaron's XXX-T setup:
Front:
35 wt. on 7's
Orange springs
Shocks 2 on tower, middle on arm
Ride height arms level
2-B link w/ two washers
.120 limiters with .9 shafts
-1/2 deg. camber, very slight toe-in
Rear:
30 wt. on 6's
Pink springs for stock, Red for Mod
Shocks 2 on tower, inside on arm
Ride height arms level (not bones)
2-A link, stock rear hubs, spaced middle
2 deg. anti-squat
Misc:
- Alum. dogbones and plastic outdrives for stock.
- Alum. topshaft
- Fury body
- Battery 1/2 inch back
- 357 servo
- Trinity front and rear pivot blocks, shock collars
- Stock P2K2 geared at 18/86, mod D5 11x2, gearing changes by track
- Trinity GP3300's
WARNING: this setup works best on blue-groove tracks like Hot Rod and SRS, and will get you in the ballpark for basically every other track (I never change it). It may not have enough steering for tight indoor tracks like SoCal..in which case, try Red Springs up front, and more drag brake than normal. At tracks like Hot Rod for stock truck, I set my drag brake to the point where the truck will roll unless I hold the brake on.
slodsm - Actually, it was someone else from the Grid that asked me to help out over here!
Thanks for the props..last year was a long time in the making.
TambokGT - That was me..and thanks! That was a lot of fun.
Aaron's XXX-T setup:
Front:
35 wt. on 7's
Orange springs
Shocks 2 on tower, middle on arm
Ride height arms level
2-B link w/ two washers
.120 limiters with .9 shafts
-1/2 deg. camber, very slight toe-in
Rear:
30 wt. on 6's
Pink springs for stock, Red for Mod
Shocks 2 on tower, inside on arm
Ride height arms level (not bones)
2-A link, stock rear hubs, spaced middle
2 deg. anti-squat
Misc:
- Alum. dogbones and plastic outdrives for stock.
- Alum. topshaft
- Fury body
- Battery 1/2 inch back
- 357 servo
- Trinity front and rear pivot blocks, shock collars
- Stock P2K2 geared at 18/86, mod D5 11x2, gearing changes by track
- Trinity GP3300's
WARNING: this setup works best on blue-groove tracks like Hot Rod and SRS, and will get you in the ballpark for basically every other track (I never change it). It may not have enough steering for tight indoor tracks like SoCal..in which case, try Red Springs up front, and more drag brake than normal. At tracks like Hot Rod for stock truck, I set my drag brake to the point where the truck will roll unless I hold the brake on.
04-13-2004, 02:34 PM
#23
It's a pretty even split actually. Kinwald, Truhe, and many of the Losi guys that race on tight indoor tracks use the 2" blue springs up front, because the setup that goes along with it gives the truck more steering.
I feel more comfortable running this setup for a couple different reasons, but a lot of it is that many big races don't have constant 180 after 180 like some tracks like SoCal have, and this setup is very easy to drive smoothly through flowing turns.
I feel more comfortable running this setup for a couple different reasons, but a lot of it is that many big races don't have constant 180 after 180 like some tracks like SoCal have, and this setup is very easy to drive smoothly through flowing turns.
04-13-2004, 02:57 PM
#24
what high school do you go to or did you go to??
04-13-2004, 04:02 PM
#26
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Last edited by Gabe Boudreau; 10-19-2005 at 05:08 PM.
04-13-2004, 04:30 PM
#28
Richy - I'm a senior at San Pasqual.
mafia - I assume you're talking about the XXX-T, right?
The first thing I do is put on new front tires; I always start with Red compound tires on loamy tracks, and Silvers on hard-packed tracks. If the track is loamy, and I need more steering, I will go to Silver compound tires. That will usually fix it immediately.
If the track is hard-packed and most people are running Taper-Pin front tires, 8-ribs will give you more steering. Hard-packed tracks are backwards from loamy ones; softer tires will give you more steering.
After tire changes, I will remove one washer from the front inner ballstud. After that, I would move the ballstud to the outside hole with one washer. I try to stay away from shock changes, because it will affect how the car jumps and goes through bumps.
If that still hasn't helped enough, or I want a little more steering during or immediately before a race, I'd dial in more drag brake on my radio (just turn the throttle trim down slightly).
Other things to try:
- Add one gold washer under each side of the front of the pivot block to give you more anti-squat; this gives you 3 degrees of anti-squat, and will give you more forward bite, and more on-speed steering.
- Raising the rear ride-height and/or raising the rear will give you a little big more steering, but can change the attitude of the car as it jumps.
- Softer front springs (Reds) will give you more steering but will change the way the truck jumps (and particularly, lands off jumps).
mafia - I assume you're talking about the XXX-T, right?
The first thing I do is put on new front tires; I always start with Red compound tires on loamy tracks, and Silvers on hard-packed tracks. If the track is loamy, and I need more steering, I will go to Silver compound tires. That will usually fix it immediately.
If the track is hard-packed and most people are running Taper-Pin front tires, 8-ribs will give you more steering. Hard-packed tracks are backwards from loamy ones; softer tires will give you more steering.
After tire changes, I will remove one washer from the front inner ballstud. After that, I would move the ballstud to the outside hole with one washer. I try to stay away from shock changes, because it will affect how the car jumps and goes through bumps.
If that still hasn't helped enough, or I want a little more steering during or immediately before a race, I'd dial in more drag brake on my radio (just turn the throttle trim down slightly).
Other things to try:
- Add one gold washer under each side of the front of the pivot block to give you more anti-squat; this gives you 3 degrees of anti-squat, and will give you more forward bite, and more on-speed steering.
- Raising the rear ride-height and/or raising the rear will give you a little big more steering, but can change the attitude of the car as it jumps.
- Softer front springs (Reds) will give you more steering but will change the way the truck jumps (and particularly, lands off jumps).
04-13-2004, 04:40 PM
#29
BK1 setup (works best in stock, I didn't start racing mod until the BK2 came out)
Front:
30 wt. on 6's
Green springs
Shocks 2 on tower, middle on arm
Ride height arms level
1-B link w/ one washer
-1/2 deg. camber, very slight toe-in
Rear:
30 wt. on 6's
Pink springs
Shocks 2 on tower, inside on arm
Bones level
2-A link, stock rear hubs, spaced middle
2 deg. anti-squat
Misc:
- Alum. dogbones and plastic outdrives
- Alum. topshaft
- Phobia body
- Battery forward
- 357 servo
- Trinity front and rear pivot blocks, shock collars
- Monster geared at 19/82
- Trinity GP3300's
I'm not sure what exactly is in my BK2 right now..and I've never run it at Hot Rod. I will post the setup on the car tonight.
Front:
30 wt. on 6's
Green springs
Shocks 2 on tower, middle on arm
Ride height arms level
1-B link w/ one washer
-1/2 deg. camber, very slight toe-in
Rear:
30 wt. on 6's
Pink springs
Shocks 2 on tower, inside on arm
Bones level
2-A link, stock rear hubs, spaced middle
2 deg. anti-squat
Misc:
- Alum. dogbones and plastic outdrives
- Alum. topshaft
- Phobia body
- Battery forward
- 357 servo
- Trinity front and rear pivot blocks, shock collars
- Monster geared at 19/82
- Trinity GP3300's
I'm not sure what exactly is in my BK2 right now..and I've never run it at Hot Rod. I will post the setup on the car tonight.
04-14-2004, 06:52 AM
#30
Aaron,
I'm a total nut when it comes to gear ratios, and (stock) motor temperature and preformance so please bear with me. Seriouesly, I may TQ, but if the motor is on warmer than I want it to be...it ruins the moment. Hopefully you can put my mind at ease. When you're racing stock...as long as you're not getting soft before the race is over and the motor "feels" good, do you even give a rats A$$ about motor temperature? That's what people are trying to tell me...hopefully you can tell me the same thing.
Also, as for gearing and ratios. You said you run an 18-86...thats an 11.61 gear ratio. The track I race on is pretty small and tight and the only straight in this layout has a single at the beginning and one in the middle....so you can't really judge where its maxing out. However, I like a motor with a little more initial "uumph." So I crunched some numbers and came up with 17-82 which is an 11.721 gear ratio. The difference from yours and mine is .111. Is it ok to step out of the box, or should I run the norm?
Thanks for bearing with me!
Chris
I'm a total nut when it comes to gear ratios, and (stock) motor temperature and preformance so please bear with me. Seriouesly, I may TQ, but if the motor is on warmer than I want it to be...it ruins the moment. Hopefully you can put my mind at ease. When you're racing stock...as long as you're not getting soft before the race is over and the motor "feels" good, do you even give a rats A$$ about motor temperature? That's what people are trying to tell me...hopefully you can tell me the same thing.
Also, as for gearing and ratios. You said you run an 18-86...thats an 11.61 gear ratio. The track I race on is pretty small and tight and the only straight in this layout has a single at the beginning and one in the middle....so you can't really judge where its maxing out. However, I like a motor with a little more initial "uumph." So I crunched some numbers and came up with 17-82 which is an 11.721 gear ratio. The difference from yours and mine is .111. Is it ok to step out of the box, or should I run the norm?
Thanks for bearing with me!
Chris