Serpent 966
10-13-2009, 12:32 AM
#781
Woah...all these are the Minimum parts to have? 
Seems a lot to me. I was thinking of belts, gears and arms only...
Seems a lot to me. I was thinking of belts, gears and arms only...
10-13-2009, 12:55 AM
#782
Probably the part you don't have as spare, will break....
But buying the front and rear "crash sets" Sam mentioned, is not so expensive, because they are sold as a set...
at least 1 spare clutch shoe is smart to have, and a front belt.
But buying the front and rear "crash sets" Sam mentioned, is not so expensive, because they are sold as a set...
at least 1 spare clutch shoe is smart to have, and a front belt.
10-13-2009, 02:24 AM
#783
10-13-2009, 08:51 AM
#784
I left the off-road stuff after getting tired of all the cleaning and just got back to on-road, although i have not bought the Serpent 966 as of yet i do have the MRX-4X and will be buying the 966 at the end of this month, i know with off-Road you can be slightly off and still win, with on-road it is different. I love what Serpent has done with the crash kit packages, i also fly heli's and have been flying for about 6 years now, this is what Raptor started doing when they got into the heli game selling a crash kit for those times when things did not go so good, it makes life sooooo much easier in the long run with the crash kit, one big hurray for Serpent to do this and it shows that they are always trying to find ways to be innovative in their ways. I cant wait to build my 966, although i am nervous as heck when i start to run these on-roads little monsters, they are fast and furious, i just want to have fun again, by the way this site is sooooo informative that it makes life easier!
10-13-2009, 10:24 AM
#785
I left the off-road stuff after getting tired of all the cleaning and just got back to on-road, although i have not bought the Serpent 966 as of yet i do have the MRX-4X and will be buying the 966 at the end of this month, i know with off-Road you can be slightly off and still win, with on-road it is different. I love what Serpent has done with the crash kit packages, i also fly heli's and have been flying for about 6 years now, this is what Raptor started doing when they got into the heli game selling a crash kit for those times when things did not go so good, it makes life sooooo much easier in the long run with the crash kit, one big hurray for Serpent to do this and it shows that they are always trying to find ways to be innovative in their ways. I cant wait to build my 966, although i am nervous as heck when i start to run these on-roads little monsters, they are fast and furious, i just want to have fun again, by the way this site is sooooo informative that it makes life easier!
10-16-2009, 02:37 AM
#786
hi guys this is my 966
10-16-2009, 02:41 AM
#787
sorry too big a file
10-16-2009, 05:34 PM
#789
10-17-2009, 04:14 PM
#790
Right guys n gals. Looking to get down to the track mid week to do some proper testing but i have a few questions (it'll be my first time out on track with the car). I've set the clutch at the standard settings. Now a few questions about it...... Tightening/loosening the clutch spring - what effect will it have on the car? I'm guessing tighter the nut (not to much) the more punch it will have out of the corners as it will have a higher rpm when it engages? But to tight and it won't even engage because it can't 'expand'...?
Clutch gap i've set at standard 0.7mm. Now if i used 0.8mm would it have again more punch and if i used 0.6mm it would be smoother/easier out of the corners?
Now about the end play. I've set the clutch gap etc etc and it says place small shims after the clutch nut and in between the first bearing. Would that effect the clutch gap though? Or do i just carry on shimming it out so it has little end play (just enough)? It's probably got about 0.5mm end play after i set the gap and placed a couple of shims behind the bigger bearing. EDIT - or just a thought, is the end play set so the clutch bell doesn't drag on the clutch shoe??? So more shims behind the bearing would make a dragging clutch bell free and not rub against the clutch shoe????
Now i've adjusted the two speed shoe-gap as the manuel states. I would guess that more of a gap between the 2-speed shoes and the gear drum/bell would result in a later gear shift? How much would yo notice on say quarter of a turn adjustment? Or just use fine adjustment say a 8th of a turn if its sensitive?
I bet you lot get asked these sorts of questions all the time but it would be a very big help.
Couple of other questions
. I can set the caster of course using the top spacer on the arms. Question is say if i shorten or lengthen the front wheelbase do i need to do anything on the caster to keep the same degree? Hope you know what i meen...
On the rear suspension arms like the castor. If i shorten/lengthen the rear wheelbase do i need to the same adjustment on the top arm? Or again do i just adjust one thing and leave the other as it is? If so what effect would i see in putting more shims behind (shortening) the top arm?
Now from my 10th electric touring car days, if i raise the outside link on the rear hubs say 0.5mm is that the same as lowering the inside link (giving more rear grip).
Something have no idea about. There are multiple mounting holes on the upper mount. I have it in the standard mount on the hub i have it in the upper hole too. If i were to move the upper body mount to the outside hole would there be a handling change and the same with the hub mounting... if i mounted it in the lower hole would there be a change in handling. Or am i getting to complicated and it's just for mounting the body at the right height (i got a Xceed Zytec).
Rear roll bar and front. Is there a way to adjust the tension of these? I've only ever used actual bars....
If you lot can help me out in any way that'd be great. Just ran me Picco Evo3 Edo in and itching to get on track
Cheers, Chaz
Clutch gap i've set at standard 0.7mm. Now if i used 0.8mm would it have again more punch and if i used 0.6mm it would be smoother/easier out of the corners?
Now about the end play. I've set the clutch gap etc etc and it says place small shims after the clutch nut and in between the first bearing. Would that effect the clutch gap though? Or do i just carry on shimming it out so it has little end play (just enough)? It's probably got about 0.5mm end play after i set the gap and placed a couple of shims behind the bigger bearing. EDIT - or just a thought, is the end play set so the clutch bell doesn't drag on the clutch shoe??? So more shims behind the bearing would make a dragging clutch bell free and not rub against the clutch shoe????
Now i've adjusted the two speed shoe-gap as the manuel states. I would guess that more of a gap between the 2-speed shoes and the gear drum/bell would result in a later gear shift? How much would yo notice on say quarter of a turn adjustment? Or just use fine adjustment say a 8th of a turn if its sensitive?
I bet you lot get asked these sorts of questions all the time but it would be a very big help.
Couple of other questions
. I can set the caster of course using the top spacer on the arms. Question is say if i shorten or lengthen the front wheelbase do i need to do anything on the caster to keep the same degree? Hope you know what i meen...On the rear suspension arms like the castor. If i shorten/lengthen the rear wheelbase do i need to the same adjustment on the top arm? Or again do i just adjust one thing and leave the other as it is? If so what effect would i see in putting more shims behind (shortening) the top arm?
Now from my 10th electric touring car days, if i raise the outside link on the rear hubs say 0.5mm is that the same as lowering the inside link (giving more rear grip).
Something have no idea about. There are multiple mounting holes on the upper mount. I have it in the standard mount on the hub i have it in the upper hole too. If i were to move the upper body mount to the outside hole would there be a handling change and the same with the hub mounting... if i mounted it in the lower hole would there be a change in handling. Or am i getting to complicated and it's just for mounting the body at the right height (i got a Xceed Zytec).
Rear roll bar and front. Is there a way to adjust the tension of these? I've only ever used actual bars....
If you lot can help me out in any way that'd be great. Just ran me Picco Evo3 Edo in and itching to get on track
Cheers, Chaz
Last edited by Charles Godwin; 10-17-2009 at 04:25 PM. Reason: EDIT
10-17-2009, 04:52 PM
#791
Right guys n gals. Looking to get down to the track mid week to do some proper testing but i have a few questions (it'll be my first time out on track with the car). I've set the clutch at the standard settings. Now a few questions about it...... Tightening/loosening the clutch spring - what effect will it have on the car? I'm guessing tighter the nut (not to much) the more punch it will have out of the corners as it will have a higher rpm when it engages? But to tight and it won't even engage because it can't 'expand'...?
Clutch gap i've set at standard 0.7mm. Now if i used 0.8mm would it have again more punch and if i used 0.6mm it would be smoother/easier out of the corners?
Now about the end play. I've set the clutch gap etc etc and it says place small shims after the clutch nut and in between the first bearing. Would that effect the clutch gap though? Or do i just carry on shimming it out so it has little end play (just enough)? It's probably got about 0.5mm end play after i set the gap and placed a couple of shims behind the bigger bearing.
Indeed carry on shimming until the cluchbell starts binding, then take the last shim out again...
Now i've adjusted the two speed shoe-gap as the manuel states. I would guess that more of a gap between the 2-speed shoes and the gear drum/bell would result in a later gear shift? How much would yo notice on say quarter of a turn adjustment? Or just use fine adjustment say a 8th of a turn if its sensitive?
You don't want that.
Make the gap as small as possible, like the manual says, the shoes should almost touch the 2nd gear housing.
The shifting point is adjusted with both screws wih the springs around them.
I bet you lot get asked these sorts of questions all the time but it would be a very big help.
Couple of other questions . I can set the caster of course using the top spacer on the arms. Question is say if i shorten or lengthen the front wheelbase do i need to do anything on the caster to keep the same degree? Hope you know what i meen...
. I can set the caster of course using the top spacer on the arms. Question is say if i shorten or lengthen the front wheelbase do i need to do anything on the caster to keep the same degree? Hope you know what i meen...
On the rear suspension arms like the castor. If i shorten/lengthen the rear wheelbase do i need to the same adjustment on the top arm? Or again do i just adjust one thing and leave the other as it is? If so what effect would i see in putting more shims behind (shortening) the top arm?
On the rear the arms will even start binding if you don't.
Now from my 10th electric touring car days, if i raise the outside link on the rear hubs say 0.5mm is that the same as lowering the inside link (giving more rear grip).
The settings for the rear upper arms are used for changing "camber rise"
Something have no idea about. There are multiple mounting holes on the upper mount. I have it in the standard mount on the hub i have it in the upper hole too. If i were to move the upper body mount to the outside hole would there be a handling change and the same with the hub mounting... if i mounted it in the lower hole would there be a change in handling. Or am i getting to complicated and it's just for mounting the body at the right height (i got a Xceed Zytec).
The Zytek is best with the rear mounted as high as possible (that's what it is designed for, it is developed on the Serpent car)
Rear roll bar and front. Is there a way to adjust the tension of these? I've only ever used actual bars....
Flat/soft means the most grip, rotated 90 degrees, means least grip.
If you lot can help me out in any way that'd be great. Just ran me Picco Evo3 Edo in and itching to get on track
Cheers, Chaz
10-17-2009, 07:00 PM
#794
Rear droop limited?
hi guys,
i've just picked up a 966 to join it's little brother 733.
i've found that if the rear bodymount is fitted using the lower hole on the wheel hubs, you can't setup the rear droop at all, seems like the lower hole on the wheel hub could be used only.
if this is the case; what's the usage of the lower hole on the wheel hub then?
i've just picked up a 966 to join it's little brother 733.
i've found that if the rear bodymount is fitted using the lower hole on the wheel hubs, you can't setup the rear droop at all, seems like the lower hole on the wheel hub could be used only.
if this is the case; what's the usage of the lower hole on the wheel hub then?
Last edited by keavze; 10-17-2009 at 07:13 PM.
10-17-2009, 07:15 PM
#795
hi guys,
i've just picked up a 966 to join it's little brother 733.
right now i'm setting the car up but when it comes to rear droop, i just can't seems to get the rear arms to lower enough for droop of 7mm even if i've backed out the droop screws totally.
the problem is that the rear body post mount is preventing the rear arms from dropping down as the rear body mount is connected to both left and right arms and also at the center.
am i missing something here?
i've just picked up a 966 to join it's little brother 733.
right now i'm setting the car up but when it comes to rear droop, i just can't seems to get the rear arms to lower enough for droop of 7mm even if i've backed out the droop screws totally.
the problem is that the rear body post mount is preventing the rear arms from dropping down as the rear body mount is connected to both left and right arms and also at the center.
am i missing something here?