Xray T4 '13
#2191
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
The difference in the height of the diff when the eccentrics are rotated is very small, the whole point of the diff eccentrics is that they have the notches specifically for tension, not tiny changes in diff height.
Using a belt tensioner to permanently supply all the tension will also add drag to the drivetrain.
Most people I know who use one have it just off the front belt so it stops the belt from resonating, they never use it to set the actual tension.
Skiddins
Most people I know who use one have it just off the front belt so it stops the belt from resonating, they never use it to set the actual tension.
Skiddins
#2192
The way I see it, whether the tension is caused by running eccentrics back to tighten the belt, or by a belt tension, you should have nearly the exact same amount of drag. It's really all about the amount of slack in the belt before it start driving the front diff or spool, how tightly it's wrapped around the spool and lay shaft.
But let us know how it goes.
Skiddins
#2193
As I stated before, as a quick change and see how the car felt, I would use the tensioner to make the belt tight, run a handful of laps, and if I liked the feel, I would adjust the diff. I would not recommend running the tensioner all the time tight against the belt. As Skiddins said, it would be another contact point, and if there is that much pressure on it, it could possibly effect handling in a negative way as the tensioner is mounted to the top deck.
#2194
Tech Adept
I see what ur all saying, the extra friction/drag caused by belt tensioner is minimal miss the apex by a foot and u have the equivalent probably! In regards to power loss again minimal we loose more from having the rear toe uneven one side on the 3 degrees mark the other just on the outside of the mark.
Using the tensioner for belt tension is fine IMHO, but lets be frank the diff height position can u actually feel the difference from diff low to diff middle so to speak? I can feel a very very slight change from diff high to low but it is tiny and against the clock no change.
Not sure if everyone knows but u can have less teeth on a belt and nothing changes, there is just less belt! The internal ratio stays the same.
J
Using the tensioner for belt tension is fine IMHO, but lets be frank the diff height position can u actually feel the difference from diff low to diff middle so to speak? I can feel a very very slight change from diff high to low but it is tiny and against the clock no change.
Not sure if everyone knows but u can have less teeth on a belt and nothing changes, there is just less belt! The internal ratio stays the same.
J
#2195
I see what ur all saying, the extra friction/drag caused by belt tensioner is minimal miss the apex by a foot and u have the equivalent probably! In regards to power loss again minimal we loose more from having the rear toe uneven one side on the 3 degrees mark the other just on the outside of the mark.
Using the tensioner for belt tension is fine IMHO, but lets be frank the diff height position can u actually feel the difference from diff low to diff middle so to speak? I can feel a very very slight change from diff high to low but it is tiny and against the clock no change.
Not sure if everyone knows but u can have less teeth on a belt and nothing changes, there is just less belt! The internal ratio stays the same.
J
Using the tensioner for belt tension is fine IMHO, but lets be frank the diff height position can u actually feel the difference from diff low to diff middle so to speak? I can feel a very very slight change from diff high to low but it is tiny and against the clock no change.
Not sure if everyone knows but u can have less teeth on a belt and nothing changes, there is just less belt! The internal ratio stays the same.
J
I have found a big difference in the handling of the car by moving the diffs up & down
#2196
I run my belts as loose as possible without skipping. Both belts are at full loose since the build with new belts. I run the belt tensioner but only to keep the belt from flopping around, not to add tension. The belt does not touch the tensioner at rest. I put a camera on the car and you would not believe how much the belt flops around without the tensioner. Belts are not the most efficient at transferring power, especially when too tight. For you experimenters try running it tight and then loose and see which one gives you lower motor temps.
#2197
After running my car with new tires I notice that at 1.5* front camber my front tires wear on the inside. running .5 to 1* camber gives me even tire wear. Should I adjust for even tire wear? I know that the rears should wear a little more on the inside but what about the fronts?
#2198
Just wondering about diff fluid. I have 1,000,000 in the front and want to try 500,000. The trouble is this still is so expensive for how much you use and I hate to buy another 15 dollar jug of so wing I might not like.
Can I add some 700 diff fluid to lighten it up a bit? Is there a formula I could use to get a certain viscosity?
Can I add some 700 diff fluid to lighten it up a bit? Is there a formula I could use to get a certain viscosity?
#2199
I run my belts as loose as possible without skipping. Both belts are at full loose since the build with new belts. I run the belt tensioner but only to keep the belt from flopping around, not to add tension. The belt does not touch the tensioner at rest. I put a camera on the car and you would not believe how much the belt flops around without the tensioner. Belts are not the most efficient at transferring power, especially when too tight. For you experimenters try running it tight and then loose and see which one gives you lower motor temps.
After running my car with new tires I notice that at 1.5* front camber my front tires wear on the inside. running .5 to 1* camber gives me even tire wear. Should I adjust for even tire wear? I know that the rears should wear a little more on the inside but what about the fronts?
#2200
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
Is there any difference in the 2 designs of rod ends XRay uses? My T4 came with the camber link ends that have the small hole in the top, but the steering links are the open ones. My T3'12 has the open ones thru out the car. Is there any durability difference in the 2?
#2201
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Land of high taxes and bad football
Posts: 1,808
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Is there any difference in the 2 designs of rod ends XRay uses? My T4 came with the camber link ends that have the small hole in the top, but the steering links are the open ones. My T3'12 has the open ones thru out the car. Is there any durability difference in the 2?
#2202
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I run my belts as loose as possible without skipping. Both belts are at full loose since the build with new belts. I run the belt tensioner but only to keep the belt from flopping around, not to add tension. The belt does not touch the tensioner at rest. I put a camera on the car and you would not believe how much the belt flops around without the tensioner. Belts are not the most efficient at transferring power, especially when too tight. For you experimenters try running it tight and then loose and see which one gives you lower motor temps.
#2203
Is there any difference in the 2 designs of rod ends XRay uses? My T4 came with the camber link ends that have the small hole in the top, but the steering links are the open ones. My T3'12 has the open ones thru out the car. Is there any durability difference in the 2?
The completely open cups with a permanently fitted open ball are so the screw can be changed for a different length item, this is useful where a much larger change of shims might be required, like bump steer etc.
If you mean the closed cups without holes, they will slowly become loose as you cannot get the driver into them
I have NEVER had either pop out in a crash with Xray!
Skiddins
#2204
[QUOTE=
Can I add some 700 diff fluid to lighten it up a bit? Is there a formula I could use to get a certain viscosity?[/QUOTE]
Yes.
The formula is:
(first viscosity + (second viscosity times x))/(x+1)=ending viscosity
solve for x, that is the ratio of second viscosity to first viscosity.
x=(first visc. + second visc. - ending viscosity)/ ending viscosity.
In your case you need to add 1.0014 ounces/grams of 700 per 1 oz./grams of 1000000 oil.
If you mix it half and half you end of with 500350 weight which is pretty close to what you want.
Can I add some 700 diff fluid to lighten it up a bit? Is there a formula I could use to get a certain viscosity?[/QUOTE]
Yes.
The formula is:
(first viscosity + (second viscosity times x))/(x+1)=ending viscosity
solve for x, that is the ratio of second viscosity to first viscosity.
x=(first visc. + second visc. - ending viscosity)/ ending viscosity.
In your case you need to add 1.0014 ounces/grams of 700 per 1 oz./grams of 1000000 oil.
If you mix it half and half you end of with 500350 weight which is pretty close to what you want.
#2205
Yes.
The formula is:
(first viscosity + (second viscosity times x))/(x+1)=ending viscosity
solve for x, that is the ratio of second viscosity to first viscosity.
x=(first visc. + second visc. - ending viscosity)/ ending viscosity.
In your case you need to add 1.0014 ounces/grams of 700 per 1 oz./grams of 1000000 oil.
If you mix it half and half you end of with 500350 weight which is pretty close to what you want.
The formula is:
(first viscosity + (second viscosity times x))/(x+1)=ending viscosity
solve for x, that is the ratio of second viscosity to first viscosity.
x=(first visc. + second visc. - ending viscosity)/ ending viscosity.
In your case you need to add 1.0014 ounces/grams of 700 per 1 oz./grams of 1000000 oil.
If you mix it half and half you end of with 500350 weight which is pretty close to what you want.