3LikesVBC Lightning 12
01-28-2014, 08:11 PM
#361
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
Here is what I have been running in 13.5 blinky and it seems to be pretty fast:
10-deg reactive
Big shim forward (less static caster)
.5 degree camber
.020 front springs
AE black sides, on the outside position
Kyosho 5k tube lube
upper shock position on battery brace, 2mm shim under top shock ball stud
65wt oil, softest center spring (although any of them should work fine)
green rears, tp fronts. blue rears will work well too, but might give a little less steering.
amr-12 body
Don't worry about the rubbing unless it is on the front edge of the chassis. It is pretty normal to see rubbing on the edges and at the back underneath the center pivot.
Are you referring to the little o-ring that goes inside the shock top cap? I believe this o-ring swells a little bit, so the key is to make sure it is fully seated before you place the top cap on and then make sure the shock shaft is perfectly in-line with that o-ring when you assembly everything so that the o-ring isn't nudged out of place. This typically takes me a couple tries to get right, but it should work just fine.
10-deg reactive
Big shim forward (less static caster)
.5 degree camber
.020 front springs
AE black sides, on the outside position
Kyosho 5k tube lube
upper shock position on battery brace, 2mm shim under top shock ball stud
65wt oil, softest center spring (although any of them should work fine)
green rears, tp fronts. blue rears will work well too, but might give a little less steering.
amr-12 body
Don't worry about the rubbing unless it is on the front edge of the chassis. It is pretty normal to see rubbing on the edges and at the back underneath the center pivot.
Are you referring to the little o-ring that goes inside the shock top cap? I believe this o-ring swells a little bit, so the key is to make sure it is fully seated before you place the top cap on and then make sure the shock shaft is perfectly in-line with that o-ring when you assembly everything so that the o-ring isn't nudged out of place. This typically takes me a couple tries to get right, but it should work just fine.
this is for a small tight track with A lot of 180's. And med traction
Stock front springs .20k losi on the king pins
10 deg reative caster
Big caster shim up front, small in the back.
front brace removed
1deg of camber
Crc black's at 42.5 mm
3.5 on ride height
Stock center spring
50 weight oil.... hole drilled in cap, zero rebound
Stock piston
Up top on the front shock mount
3mm on rear shock mount
Silver ae side springs in the inside. Half a round after touching
30k losi oil in the damper tubes.
3.5 mm of height at the front of the pod under the link screws
.75 of drop on the pod
Crc gray- low rear tires at 42.5 mm
3.5mm of ride height under rear axle
Full tires sauce front and rear
01-29-2014, 09:15 AM
#362
I'm still getting oil past the oring on the shaft. Maybe the.oring isn't compressed between the parts properly nit sure.
It does work but I'd have to refill it every race day.
Went up to 50wt 2 holes. Actually feels like a damper now ha.
30k sides up from 20. The usual 10degree front end but took half mil out from upper arm length and added 0.8 to upper kingpin shims.
The car was very responsive on corner entry. Almost too much that I'd smack the apex a lot lol. I like a responsive car but paired with incorrect rollout ect I was going too slow and just biting in the front too much.
Ill see how it goes on Saturday. Corrected a few setup issues and painting up a new body. Only doing 13.5 til I figure the car out some.
It does work but I'd have to refill it every race day.
Went up to 50wt 2 holes. Actually feels like a damper now ha.
30k sides up from 20. The usual 10degree front end but took half mil out from upper arm length and added 0.8 to upper kingpin shims.
The car was very responsive on corner entry. Almost too much that I'd smack the apex a lot lol. I like a responsive car but paired with incorrect rollout ect I was going too slow and just biting in the front too much.
Ill see how it goes on Saturday. Corrected a few setup issues and painting up a new body. Only doing 13.5 til I figure the car out some.
01-29-2014, 09:35 AM
#363
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
I'm still getting oil past the oring on the shaft. Maybe the.oring isn't compressed between the parts properly nit sure.
It does work but I'd have to refill it every race day.
Went up to 50wt 2 holes. Actually feels like a damper now ha.
30k sides up from 20. The usual 10degree front end but took half mil out from upper arm length and added 0.8 to upper kingpin shims.
The car was very responsive on corner entry. Almost too much that I'd smack the apex a lot lol. I like a responsive car but paired with incorrect rollout ect I was going too slow and just biting in the front too much.
Ill see how it goes on Saturday. Corrected a few setup issues and painting up a new body. Only doing 13.5 til I figure the car out some.
It does work but I'd have to refill it every race day.
Went up to 50wt 2 holes. Actually feels like a damper now ha.
30k sides up from 20. The usual 10degree front end but took half mil out from upper arm length and added 0.8 to upper kingpin shims.
The car was very responsive on corner entry. Almost too much that I'd smack the apex a lot lol. I like a responsive car but paired with incorrect rollout ect I was going too slow and just biting in the front too much.
Ill see how it goes on Saturday. Corrected a few setup issues and painting up a new body. Only doing 13.5 til I figure the car out some.
01-29-2014, 11:01 AM
#364
This is my first tube car ha. Coming from 12r5.1 lipo monoshock. Ran 25-35wts in that.
20k seems similar but I'll def try.lighter.
I have some 3k diflub and crc 10k tubelube I can frankenstein together to try out.
Much nicer changing damper tubes but wasteful.
20k seems similar but I'll def try.lighter.
I have some 3k diflub and crc 10k tubelube I can frankenstein together to try out.
Much nicer changing damper tubes but wasteful.
01-30-2014, 09:12 AM
#366
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
In short, the thinner tube lube really helps when traction is lower, but you will need to go thicker when traction comes up.
01-30-2014, 08:37 PM
#368
Greetings everyone!
I got my self the Lightning12 about 2 weeks ago and was impressed by the quality of the build and how well it handles. I do have a small issue though, did anyone encounter any rubbing of the turnbuckle cup on the inner rim of the front wheels?
This happens when the steering is close to full lock. My steering endpoint is currently set at 70 both sides on the S9650 servo. Wheels are RB Speedlines.
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
I got my self the Lightning12 about 2 weeks ago and was impressed by the quality of the build and how well it handles. I do have a small issue though, did anyone encounter any rubbing of the turnbuckle cup on the inner rim of the front wheels?
This happens when the steering is close to full lock. My steering endpoint is currently set at 70 both sides on the S9650 servo. Wheels are RB Speedlines.
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
Last edited by Nanoframe; 01-30-2014 at 09:17 PM.
01-30-2014, 09:19 PM
#370
I have a set of CRC and JFT tires coming in to compare and see if they have the same problem.
Thanks!
Last edited by Nanoframe; 01-30-2014 at 11:22 PM.
01-30-2014, 11:26 PM
#372
I did as you suggested and still can't seem to find the problem. 
All parts used are the exact same parts installed as specified in the manual.
When checking the front end, I noticed I did make a change to the caster settings. It 's currently set at the maximum caster with all the spacers at the back. Would that cause the wheels to rub?
Thanks again for all the help rendered so far!
All parts used are the exact same parts installed as specified in the manual. When checking the front end, I noticed I did make a change to the caster settings. It 's currently set at the maximum caster with all the spacers at the back. Would that cause the wheels to rub?
Thanks again for all the help rendered so far!
