avs

iTrader: (2)

different front wheels have different offset, so if you shim to get the same front width, you should have the same clearance between the rim and turnbuckle.

you might check your front width to others' (I am not familiar with RB's wheels, they may produce a narrower front)
a picture from above might help to verify you don't have some other issue

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

Here is setup I've run. Going to run next weekend make few more small changes car is super smooth and easy to drive

LonnyJ1950

If you're running the Yellow RB wheels, it's one of the smallest diameter front wheels on the market. If it's rubbing the turnbuckle itself at lock, I think you may have too muck steering travel.

Nanoframe

iTrader: (1)

@ avs: Thank you so much for the suggestion, I will take a picture and post it soon.

@LoonyJ1950: That's what I thought too, I will try toning down the travel and see if it helps. My only worry is that I have to lower it so much so that I lose steering in the tighter corners around the track. For the sake of testing, I tried fitting a yokomo wheel and it yielded the same problem as well.

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

What size track and how big are lanes? How is traction?

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

You will probably want to tone down the travel. I believe I'm setup at 55-60% max. If you're not able to get around the tighter corners you'll probably want to check the setup.

flameoutgarrett

iTrader: (10)

Yeah 85% is my max, if it's hitting the turnbuckle something else is the problem, can you post a pic of your servo? Maybe you need a spacer to get a little more angle on your links

Nanoframe

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I'll turn down the end-point further and work from there. I'll have a look at the setup as well.


The track is fairly small approx 30+ meters (98+ ft) by 15 meters (49+ ft) with the long straight running the length of the track. The width is about 3 lanes wide along the straight and narrows down to 2 in the corners. Traction is close no none on the smooth epoxy surface.


Thanks! Here are a few pictures;

The Servo


The Front End


Full Lock Left


Full Lock Right


Do excuse the poor quality of the pictures taken. ^^;
Click the picture for the full size resolution.

I really appreciate the help that everyone has given so far. It can be challenging when you're the only one playing with pan cars in the midst of drifters. So thank you all!

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

looks like you missed the arkerman shims as flameoutgarrett had mentioned

flameoutgarrett

iTrader: (10)

Yep there's your fix!

Nanoframe

iTrader: (1)

Great! Thanks everyone!

EDIT: I added the Ackermann spacer and most of the rubbing is now gone. The inner rim is still rubbing at extreme steering lock which I believe can be remedied with the reduction of the steering endpoint. I did not expect the omission of that part would have such a big impact on the steering. Looks like I still have a lot to learn.

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

I couple things I missed on sheet was full front end ae but with Vbc mounting blocks to get shortest upper arm. Also using ae ball cups in full front end too

valk

iTrader: (13)

I know brian made a center spring chart, but is there one comparing various side springs? I see most people use ae but how do the crc springs compare. They are easier for me to get without making an internet order.

Only changes to stock I've made so far were ae titaniun turnbuckles in upper arms, spec r steel for steering links and tamiya ballcups throughout.
Hope it stays together better this time.
Regret buying spare vbc balcups lol. Ill never use them. The side springs kinda neh too. Getting them on/off the keepers is a challenge.

rayan

iTrader: (9)

What esc you guys using? Gonna be running a 17.5 or 13.5 motor

Thanks

valk

iTrader: (13)

tonight went much better. qualified 7th overall and finished there. i changed batteries for the bump to the amain "5car mains" but all the speed i had to win the B was gone in the a.
I set the car up with max's front end and tried a few different things with the rear. ran crc magenta/green combo all night with 3k in the tubes, 50wt in the middle on 3 holes. this seems to work very well for magenta/green but i tried black/greylow and the car was on ice.. soooo pushy. I think the stock springs might be a touch too stiff in the front for that tire combination, which i ran all the time with my associated. ill be picking up a full set of front and rear crc springs next race day, and trying to get the car to work with black/greylow again as its pretty norm for our track on a club race.

the setup i ran tonight should work very well for the mod car though on our carpet. the car had TONS of traction, pretty much on rails all night but this might have cost me some time in corners. i tried putting stiffer lube in the tubes but made the rear end washout unexpectedly. stayed with 3k all night.

i also tried magenta greylow but that was way way too much front end bite. maybe softening the rear more would have helped.
for my driving style the mod tires worked well, but maybe for stock ill need to adjust my driving style. which is difficult.

next week off. hopefully the following week i can sort the car out on the standard stock tires and figure out rollout/timing for my hobbywing 1s and reedy mach2 13.5. havent had a lot of tracktime on carpet this year and havent really figure out what that motor likes yet. last year was 17.5 boost and i had that pretty well figured out.. i went from top 3 to struggling to make the top 8..

im also going to try running transverse. my best results in stock was with my onpoint 5.1 conversion which was transverse. when i went to the 5.2 inline i had some trouble getting the same corner speed. which sounds strange but meh. all about tracktime i guess. the transverse seemed to corner better on 135s and similar where the inline was better in chicanes obviously. usually we have more 135 in series but not always a chicane.
meh. I still noob.