108LikesTeam Associated T5M Discussion
04-21-2015, 10:08 AM
#1426
Tech Adept
Can someone give me link to A-main site for turnbuckle titanium... Don't want to screw up a wrong order... This my first AE lol..
04-21-2015, 10:38 AM
#1427
You want the 2.65" turnbuckles. Really not hard. You'll need 6 of them. Some people have opted for 2.5" because they say the front upper is too long at 2.65. Also labeled as 2 5/8.
04-21-2015, 10:53 AM
#1429
Tech Adept
04-21-2015, 10:57 AM
#1430
04-21-2015, 01:34 PM
#1431
Square. Mine is over 2 kilo and stuck to the ground like glue.
04-21-2015, 08:58 PM
#1432
my kit is on its way
04-21-2015, 09:13 PM
#1433
Running mine with no weight reduction and a saddle pack. I keep resetting the track record every time out with the truck so I really dont want to change anything, but the MIP transmission is going to be the first thing on my list. Ti turn buckles will eventually go on but I am in no hurry for them, but mainly will be for the bling so will probably end up with AE FT ones.
My new body should be here this week and I am gonna steal an idea I seen somewhere and leave the "bed" of the truck clear to show off the MIP trans.
My new body should be here this week and I am gonna steal an idea I seen somewhere and leave the "bed" of the truck clear to show off the MIP trans.
04-21-2015, 10:20 PM
#1434
04-21-2015, 10:23 PM
#1435
On Sunday we kicked off our outdoor race season. Stated this earlier but, the track is medium to low grip, quite smooth though. It is watered between each round, so on the tone it starts slick goes to best grip after a few laps, then by the end it is dry. If you are in the groove it is medium grip, but if you fall out of the groove it is low to loose grip.
So I used Thielke as my base setup. I followed MattK101's suggestion to use 2 rear limiters instead of one. When I first got onto the track to practice I was really worried, the truck wouldn't turn and had no traction. Part of this was the fact that the only surface my truck has seen is carpet, basically traction rich. After a few minutes the groove developed and I stuck to it. It was all coming back to me about throttle control and staying in the groove/racing line. For the most part you can drive anywhere on carpet. My biggest problem was steering. Low speed was fine but with any speed I could turn and just wait about 5 feet before the fronts would hookup. I have two sets of fronts and found the best for the track. They were the same ones I used on my T4, so I must have figured that out before. After talking to one of the setup experts, he doesn't race truck but is a good resource, he said to try going to a softer front spring. So I went from Blue fronts to Grey. I still had a push but got some steering back. And the medium speed sections of the track, as long as I stayed in the groove, were awesome.
One thing I didn't figure out from the Thielke setup was the rear hubs. I have the stock and guessed at what would match his rear stud mount location. I went with the A inserts UP and the center Hole. I think that matches.
So one other T5M was at the track and he TQ'd. He was running Red's in the front and Greys on the rear. He didn't say what oils or limiters but the shock mount locations matched mine.
I just loved running the truck on dirt though. If I can get more steering it would be dialed.
So I used Thielke as my base setup. I followed MattK101's suggestion to use 2 rear limiters instead of one. When I first got onto the track to practice I was really worried, the truck wouldn't turn and had no traction. Part of this was the fact that the only surface my truck has seen is carpet, basically traction rich. After a few minutes the groove developed and I stuck to it. It was all coming back to me about throttle control and staying in the groove/racing line. For the most part you can drive anywhere on carpet. My biggest problem was steering. Low speed was fine but with any speed I could turn and just wait about 5 feet before the fronts would hookup. I have two sets of fronts and found the best for the track. They were the same ones I used on my T4, so I must have figured that out before. After talking to one of the setup experts, he doesn't race truck but is a good resource, he said to try going to a softer front spring. So I went from Blue fronts to Grey. I still had a push but got some steering back. And the medium speed sections of the track, as long as I stayed in the groove, were awesome.
One thing I didn't figure out from the Thielke setup was the rear hubs. I have the stock and guessed at what would match his rear stud mount location. I went with the A inserts UP and the center Hole. I think that matches.
So one other T5M was at the track and he TQ'd. He was running Red's in the front and Greys on the rear. He didn't say what oils or limiters but the shock mount locations matched mine.
I just loved running the truck on dirt though. If I can get more steering it would be dialed.
04-22-2015, 05:42 AM
#1436
Important safety tip, thanks Egon!
jB
04-22-2015, 09:46 AM
#1437
Has anybody tried the Clark setup on AE's website yet? The shock setup on it is more like a B5m setup. The 3x1.4 pistons in front and 2x1.6 pistons in the rear works so well in my buggy I was thinking of trying this on the truck.
04-22-2015, 09:54 AM
#1438
Last night there were five T5 at the track. Three of them broke the rear inner ball stud flush with the mount. I'm not sure what kind of hit they took but the track layout is really smooth with no real big jumps. It just seemed odd to me. I wonder if there has been a heat treating error and they are too brittle. I noticed on some of the pro setup sheets that they run +2mm aluminum spacer with 1mm plastic under the ball stud. Anyone know why the plastic one? I assume the plastic acts like loctite under compression??
Here's the track layout. Every truck is a T5M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVce...ature=youtu.be
Here's the track layout. Every truck is a T5M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVce...ature=youtu.be
04-22-2015, 10:39 AM
#1440
I changed all the plastic ball stud washers out for 1mm aluminum washers just to prevent that. The theory is that under a hard hit the plastic Will give and let the stud bend or break. The aluminum washers don't give. A small dab of blue loctite and an occasional recheck keeps them tight.