BMI's DB12R
10-10-2007, 10:06 PM
#2162
Thats the thing, I have no such tools! Worse still, I am in Canada now. Shipping a small part like that is crazy 
10-11-2007, 02:01 AM
#2163
Tech Regular
Jason,
You need to sort out a price for a pre-built car!
Assemble the except the aerial and ship it in the same box, all we have to do is install electrics and we're off!
You need to sort out a price for a pre-built car!
Assemble the except the aerial and ship it in the same box, all we have to do is install electrics and we're off!
10-11-2007, 06:46 AM
#2165
Tech Adept
Kropy,
IRS does not accept pay pal, sorry.
Dave
IRS does not accept pay pal, sorry.
Dave
10-11-2007, 09:15 AM
#2166
diff ring coning
I'm slowly assembling my car, working on the diff rings now. (Skipped the shock, waiting for a replacement cap from DiffDude.)
What I notice as I sand the diff rings is that they are quite conical. On one side the sanding only scuffs near the center of the ring; on the other, only near the outer edge.
Is part of the reason for sanding the rings to make them flatter?
If so it would seem more effective to start with a coarser paper and finish with the #600, instead of trying to remove all that material with the #600.
--mark
What I notice as I sand the diff rings is that they are quite conical. On one side the sanding only scuffs near the center of the ring; on the other, only near the outer edge.
Is part of the reason for sanding the rings to make them flatter?
If so it would seem more effective to start with a coarser paper and finish with the #600, instead of trying to remove all that material with the #600.
--mark
10-11-2007, 09:33 AM
#2167
I'm slowly assembling my car, working on the diff rings now. (Skipped the shock, waiting for a replacement cap from DiffDude.)
What I notice as I sand the diff rings is that they are quite conical. On one side the sanding only scuffs near the center of the ring; on the other, only near the outer edge.
Is part of the reason for sanding the rings to make them flatter?
If so it would seem more effective to start with a coarser paper and finish with the #600, instead of trying to remove all that material with the #600.
--mark
What I notice as I sand the diff rings is that they are quite conical. On one side the sanding only scuffs near the center of the ring; on the other, only near the outer edge.
Is part of the reason for sanding the rings to make them flatter?
If so it would seem more effective to start with a coarser paper and finish with the #600, instead of trying to remove all that material with the #600.
--mark
If one of your rings require a significant amount of sanding I would try another. I'll be at SIR on Sunday with spares if you need one.
Mark
10-11-2007, 09:40 AM
#2168
I'm slowly assembling my car, working on the diff rings now. (Skipped the shock, waiting for a replacement cap from DiffDude.)
What I notice as I sand the diff rings is that they are quite conical. On one side the sanding only scuffs near the center of the ring; on the other, only near the outer edge.
Is part of the reason for sanding the rings to make them flatter?
If so it would seem more effective to start with a coarser paper and finish with the #600, instead of trying to remove all that material with the #600.
--mark
What I notice as I sand the diff rings is that they are quite conical. On one side the sanding only scuffs near the center of the ring; on the other, only near the outer edge.
Is part of the reason for sanding the rings to make them flatter?
If so it would seem more effective to start with a coarser paper and finish with the #600, instead of trying to remove all that material with the #600.
--mark
It is very common and this is why you want to sand them. The reason this happens is because during the stamping proccess,there will be some deformation. I am very surprised how minimal it is on the diff rings being that stampings usually deform so much that they need to be flattened. I would imagine that they are flattened after the stamping proccess but there will be a slight bit of memory in the material that will make it real hard to get them perfect. Try starting with 220 drit and then start going to finer paper as they flatten out.
10-11-2007, 09:41 AM
#2169
His first advice was to perform some extra trimming on the upper suspension ball ends, beyond the trimming called for in the DB12R instructions. He trimmed material from the outside top and from the inside (right next to the pivot ball) bottom. The inside bottom trimming prevents the steering block from contacting the ball end as car rolls and the spring compresses.
His second (and related) advice was *not* to ream the steering blocks so that they float on the kingpins. Just ream them enough for an easy press fit. The steering blocks don't need to float if the ball end is sufficiently trimmed, and you get less slop in the front end by not having them float.
Sounds to me like both techniques work, you just have to do a careful job on the front end whichever way you choose to do it. What do you think, Jason?
10-11-2007, 10:08 AM
#2170
Brian is correct. Normally i run a shim on top of the steering block. I do this for the same reason as brian trims the bottom of the eyelet. I ream the steering block so that is will slide on the kingpin but with no side slop. The reason i do this is because if you take a good hit and the kingpin shifts in the steering block, It will not be able to return and will give the car a tweaked feel. In theory, the only portion of the kingpin that needs to slide on the kingpin is the area through the lower arm. Unfortunately the AE design makes it so it needs to slide through the block,and both the upper and lower arm. I am working on an aftermarket kingpin and upper ball that will make things a whole lot easier. 
10-11-2007, 11:42 AM
#2172
Tech Champion
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Diff rings, here is what I do.....
Take diff ring, start with 800 grade sandpaper... Yes a little 3-1 oil about 15 minutes each side
clean
then 1500 sandpaper... about 8-minutes per side
clean
Lastly 2000 grid very little oil...... about 5 minutes per side....
clean You can almost see yourself on them....
I use auto repair sandpaper..... Diffs last a long time......
Take diff ring, start with 800 grade sandpaper... Yes a little 3-1 oil about 15 minutes each side
clean
then 1500 sandpaper... about 8-minutes per side
clean
Lastly 2000 grid very little oil...... about 5 minutes per side....
clean You can almost see yourself on them....
I use auto repair sandpaper..... Diffs last a long time......
10-11-2007, 11:44 AM
#2174
beautiful piece Jason! I got to race against a certain car maker that was running your car and it was pretty good! nice looking too!
good job man...
good job man...
10-11-2007, 12:20 PM
#2175
Tech Adept
Nova F1 Racer,
You are using to fine sandpaper. I recommend using 600 wet/dry only. You are actually making them so smooth they will not grip the diff balls. To get the diff locked you have to tighten the diff nut to much and risk damaging the balls or rings. Using the 600 only gives the diff balls something to grip so you don't have to over tighten the diff nut. The radius of a 1/8th diff ball cannot fell the scratches made by 600 grit sandpaper. A properly prepared diff will not slip but when the spur gear is held the wheels will spin freely in the opposit directions. Try it.
Dave "DiffDude" Irrgang
You are using to fine sandpaper. I recommend using 600 wet/dry only. You are actually making them so smooth they will not grip the diff balls. To get the diff locked you have to tighten the diff nut to much and risk damaging the balls or rings. Using the 600 only gives the diff balls something to grip so you don't have to over tighten the diff nut. The radius of a 1/8th diff ball cannot fell the scratches made by 600 grit sandpaper. A properly prepared diff will not slip but when the spur gear is held the wheels will spin freely in the opposit directions. Try it.
Dave "DiffDude" Irrgang