Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

With JP testing it I would imagine that is pretty good feedback to Durango to make those design changes. Kinda interesting that he built his Durango for the very first event running it in that layout.

Did notice Travis ran his in the more traditional layout.

Jeff

micholix

May TD is allready thinking about it, as the v3 body does have that edged and higher sides, to fit a shorty easyer!?
These are just my spaculations....

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Im going quote myself here and say I think TD should either bring the 210F Chassis out with ability to mount the V3 Rear end on or like said above a revised Side Pod would be good also.

I have a Dimec20 Chassis I will probably modify for sideways shorty action won't be that difficult by the look of it.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Got V3 all wired up and took it for a little test run. I didn't have a stock motor to run so I had and 8.5 so put that in and setup the esc for mod. I put the wing on but new body isn't painted yet so I was pretty care running it on the track. Did a few laps and car was OK. Slipper was a little loose and had an off power push. Went back to my pit and switched tires and went to 30 degree caster. Went back out and wow my car was really dialed in. Car was easy to drive fast with a mod in so stock will even easier but overall was very impressed with about 30 laps I put in. Very good starting spot with it. Ran it 3 gear mid motor on a medium bite clay track.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I do like this wiring layout:

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Very nicely done. I ran my esc in front of the battery and my receiver on the right side pod. Not 100% if that is where I will keep mine or not but like the extra weight up front with my shorty servo.

Think I will move my shocks around to the rear of the car as well so I can use more adjustments on my shock tower. Do I need to do anything other than flip the a arms around and the hubs?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I tried the aluminum rear hubs but the inserts are about impossible to put in as they must of used too much anodizing on the hubs because if you do get the spacer in the hinge pins fit so tightly you can't free them up and if you want to change the the toe they need beat out and get ruined.

emerilnut

iTrader: (2)

That's PUUUUURDY.

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

That is a good looking buggy. The Viper esc and new Maclan motor looks good too. I know him and JP both run Maclan stuff.

Shocks on the back of the arms gives the buggy what?

Sweet how much life this thread has of late.....

emerilnut

iTrader: (2)

OK, so I have this new (to me) DEX210 that I completely disassembled to fully clean all the parts. Gonna start reassembling it tonight.

Question.... should I set it up as mid-motor or rear-motor? It will mainly be for bashing on mixed terrain (asphalt, some grass, some tight packed dirt). I won't go racing much but if I do, the only place there is tight packed clay.

I'm thinking mid-motor since most of the driving will be on asphalt or tight packed clay?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Gives the rear of the car more traction overall plus allows to lay the shocks over without hitting the gear cover. I could only use the outer two holes on the tower but now I can use the other ones if need be.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I would say go with the mid motor setup as when bashing you probably don't care too much about having the overall best handling. And would be one less thing to change over when you try the track.

Depending on how much you like it, you could even pick up a second vehicle to server as your racer if yo uwant.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

I thought I was the only one that hated the aluminum hubs. I'd love to hear if someone has a trick to get the inserts out without destroying them.

DaTaz

I tried quickly aluminium hubs on my V1 because stock parts were really too easy to break on landings. And then, my second V1 (one is MM for carpet, the other is RM for dirt) got alu hubs, then my DEST... And no more rear hubs breaking. Are V2 and V3 parts stronger?

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Not sure. I've never broken a rear hub. Only issue I've had is stripping out the screw holes on them but thats easy to fix with a longer ball stud and a nut.