NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

Thanks man! I have an old Taig manual micro lathe and mess around a bit from time to time.

sgtlt

iTrader: (5)

Thinking about getting one of these to play around with. Kinda tired of all my 2wd buggys so trying some road cars. Started with a old touring car had fun with that so got a new Detc 410v2 what a nice car. Now thinking about one of these ?

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

I've got a 12R5.1 and love it. Foam tired cars on carpet is fantastic. You won't be disappointed with the speed and handling of these little rocket ships.

And really, any of the 1/12th pan cars, CRC, XRay, AE, VBC, etc., are competitive. We have at our track a R125.2, R125, CRC, XRay 2016 spec (and my 5.1) and we are all swapping the lead - it's a blast. I will say, if I had the money I would get the XRay. . . but really any of them are great, and I'm an Associated fan going back 25 years.

I will say, buy a good 1S specific ESC, seems to make a difference - maybe not. And I'm sure someone can chime in that has a lot more experience than me.

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

What's the preferred brand of spur gear? I'm pretty much sold on CRC pinions.

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

I've always liked and had good results with Kimbrough spur gears and pinions. I would say if you're gonna run CRC pinions, may as well run CRC spurs, too.

Fran

iTrader: (213)

I think you have to use a non-flanged bearing on the CRC spur gear on the Associated axles & hubs if I remember correctly.

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

I would rather avoid the need to change to a different type of bearing (already bought a bunch of spares for AE set-up).

Any opinions on the Xenon brand?

Racermac73

iTrader: (3)

No need to even think twice.. if it says xenon on it than its top notch stuff. I've never had a bad parts from him and his springs are the best I've ever owned.

chensleyrc1

iTrader: (38)

Xenons are good along with PRS if you can find them in stock. I would stay away from CRC spurs unless you get the ones with 1/8 balls. When they went to the smaller diff balls it throws off the diff hub spacing and will end up shimming the diff cone and nut assembly.

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

Cool, I'll order some. I've already got a set of Xenon front-end bulkhead for the McFactory chassis that I have on order.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

McFactory chassis and Xenon front end... Nice combo!

Xenon spur gears are nice in the mean time, but Axon spur gears are .

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Im having trouble getting front end ride height to 3.2 . I finally bought a truer and cut my front tires to 41R 39.5F . I have removed all shims under bulkhead blocks , and all shims on kinpins are on top. Ride height in front is below 3mm more like 2.8 2.9 . What am I missing Im confused.

Also I watched your videos Edward and I understand how to lower car with front hubs , but how do I raise front of car?

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a lot of front end droop/sag?

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

Make sure there is no king pin shims between the knuckle and lower control arm for starters, and remove most, if not all droop in the front end. Do this by placing king pin shims on the top of the upper control arm. I find the softer the front spring, the less droop is needed, with .18's, I run 'e-clip preload' on the spring, 0.20's no droop/preload, 0.22's 0.2-0.4mm droop.

If this will not make ride height, start the fronts a tad bigger-40 to 39.7mm.

But really, in all but super high traction, you don't need to run the tires that small. Also, the bigger the stagger on the tires F/R, the less steering you will have, typical stagger is 1mm.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

At TQ where you are running
I typically start at Fr 42.5, Rr 44

39mm front tires should still have 3mm RH
Sounds like a droop or assy issue
Can you post pics of your car ?