MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Silver is the firmer spring.

Not in it's current form. Not sure the future F104 version would work with the VBC either since you cannot use our upper arms on the VBC either. Working on a VBC version was a thought- but VBC keeps releasing revised kits too fast to keep up or even make it worthwhile to us...

IlikeF1

Mike or Aaron,

So far so good with my IFS - I have equaled my lap times prior to the conversion, and I feel there is some adjusting to do to really dial it in.

The one thing I am having an issue with and I can't seem to wrap my head around is ride height.

I am having trouble keeping it above 4.2mm - and to get it this high I had to position the steering knuckle all the way to the bottom of the kingpin with all the spacers on top. I even have the shock ball ends adjusted out as far as I can without them being too weak from not being threaded in very much.

I know I am missing something or have done something stupid - do you have any advice or suggestions for me?

Thanks,
Nick

wheelz

Hi nick,

I think i know what might fix your ride height problem. The ballcap that is at the bottom of the damper is 3racing brand. they sell a shorter and longer length ballcap. I would double check and make sure that the longer one is on your car and not the short one. the longer one should allow you to space back up the spindle and get the proper ride height

Aaron

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

My car is not here at the shop. I'll take a look tomorrow at home and post up.

Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

Did you remove the 1mm shim that was under the factory arm setup for the f1r2? Was under the wing, lower arms, and went along the servo..

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Good point

Hi Nick,

I checked my car just now and it is sitting at 5.1mm with shimizu tires. Not sure what tires you are running but different brand tires and different inserts definitely affect my ride height. With Tamiya kit tires It will raise the ride height at least 1.5mm.

For the shimizu I did have to use a 1mm spacer above the exotek coned spacer as shown. Looks like I will want to amend the instruction as that is different than what the sheet shows sorry.

Fredp1

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for letting me know.

IlikeF1

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

I am running pit 571/572's, and I did remove the 1mm spacer as Boostnswify38 suggested.

I think Aaron is onto something with the length of the ballcups - I just trimmed down some X-Ray open-end ballcups and am now more in the ballpark - I am not able to get back to the track until the Sunday after Christmas to do more testing, but in the meantime I am going to do some maintenance and fine adjusting on a set-up station - can't wait to get back out there!

Mike and Aaron - Any chance you guys will come out to Denver for the MHIC in April? It would be awesome to have the Exotek big shots at 5280 Raceway! My F1R2 has gotten some attention locally even before the IFS was released, as I have been enjoying some success with it. Any plans of going to IIC in 2015?

Thanks,
Nick

wheelz

I really want to go to iic 2015!! My school schedule is always horrible or I cant afford to miss the days of class. I am definitely going to try again this year though (fingers crossed)

Is there anywhere I can find information for the MHIC?

IlikeF1

IIC was absolutly amazing - what a blast! Hope you can go!

You can visit www.5280raceway.com or see the thread on RCtech (sorry, I'm not cool enough to link threads, just search for MHIC 2015 and you should find it.)

It is a three day event April 17, 18, and 19 (Fri, Sat, Sun) - and as you will read on the website or the thread, there is virtually unlimited track time! Since it is a club and not a business you will find members there all hours of the day and night during the event.

Thanks,
Nick

IlikeF1

Actually, the website is www.milehighindoorchamps.com - sorry!

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Boy I wish but it's very hard for me to take all the time off away from the office for the traveling races- especially for on road since it's just a small fraction of my sales. I wish the Reedy TC race had F1 class though as that is the 1 big race I like to attend

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

I'm just putting my IFS together now. What would the affect be of using a shorter kingpin vs the F104 length one, thus reducing the amount of shims above and beneath the steering arm.

I noticed the original F104 steering arms are 11mm. Alloy Tamiya ones are 8mm and Tuning Haus ones are 7mm. So depending on the arms used a lot more spacers are needed.

Was also wondering what the C clips (2 of them) are for as they don't fit the kingpins and dont look to be used anywhere else in the IFS. Same goes for the thin washers that there are 4 of. Only 2 are used under the upper arms through the kingpin.

wheelz

hello!

Im not 100% sure what clips you are talking about. Do you see that C-clip on the expanded parts view on the photo I've attached? The washers can just be used as extra or incase you drop one or something

Typically when I tried less washers on the kingpin it did a couple of things:

1) tapered the arms making them wider at the bulkhead and narrower at the spindle

2) my car became edgy and less consistent when we ran less spindles. it made the car want to over-rotate the corners. If you want to try changing your shim spacing on the kingpin, the easiest and most durable way is to use a 35mm long counter sunk steel screw as your kingpin. Then you can just tighten or loosen the nut to take up the space from the shims. I am using the tamiya brand steel screw as my kingpin currently. Another benefit is that you will never loose a race because a stupid e-clip fell off the kingpin!

Aaron

Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

I like that idea! Link to parts☺?