TC3 Forum
Just out of curiosity...
Does anyone have a source of brand new Racer Kit's for cheap?
Does anyone have a source of brand new Racer Kit's for cheap?
Tech Apprentice
Need parts.....
Does anyone have any aluminum parts for the tc3 4sell????? If so PM me back please...
OH! so thats wut those screws were fore...
Originally Posted by nbcaznmaster
OH! so thats wut those screws were fore...
LOL
you should make sure both left and right are perfectly even
they are, but heres another problem, my shocks started to leak and then i thoguth it needed rebuild. Bought rebuild and its STEAL FREAKIGN LEAKING!! its at teh part where teh rod comes out. Its leaking form tehre!! HELP ME FIX IT!!
Is the bottom cap that goes on fully screwed over and "locked" on?
Originally Posted by nbcaznmaster
they are, but heres another problem, my shocks started to leak and then i thoguth it needed rebuild. Bought rebuild and its STEAL FREAKIGN LEAKING!! its at teh part where teh rod comes out. Its leaking form tehre!! HELP ME FIX IT!!
what kind of shock bodies do you have?
heres some pics of my shocks...mades from yokomo, assoiciated, and xray
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...81#post2180081
Droop screws set the downtravel of the suspension, or chassis uptravel. They do the same thing as if you were to add or remove spacers under the shock pistons to change or limit suspension (rebound) travel, the advantage of droop screws you don't have to tear apart the shocks everytime you need to make an adjustment.
Ride height should be adjusted using the threaded shock collars or using those plastic C spacers on non-threaded shock bodies.
If you use the droop screws to set the ride height... screws in contact with the chassis, I believe what you'd have is a snappy car, basically all weight will be transfered about the chassis instantly. The suspension won't be able to rebound or absorb bumps causing the tires to lose contact with the ground. Also the car will want to push on throttle and have a lot of oversteer, rear end come around, off throttle. This might be good for a drift setup I don't know.
Ride height should be adjusted using the threaded shock collars or using those plastic C spacers on non-threaded shock bodies.
If you use the droop screws to set the ride height... screws in contact with the chassis, I believe what you'd have is a snappy car, basically all weight will be transfered about the chassis instantly. The suspension won't be able to rebound or absorb bumps causing the tires to lose contact with the ground. Also the car will want to push on throttle and have a lot of oversteer, rear end come around, off throttle. This might be good for a drift setup I don't know.
Originally Posted by Brent Owen
Droop screws set the downtravel of the suspension, or chassis uptravel. They do the same thing as if you were to add or remove spacers under the shock pistons to change or limit suspension (rebound) travel, the advantage of droop screws you don't have to tear apart the shocks everytime you need to make an adjustment.
Ride height should be adjusted using the threaded shock collars or using those plastic C spacers on non-threaded shock bodies.
If you use the droop screws to set the ride height... screws in contact with the chassis, I believe what you'd have is a snappy car, basically all weight will be transfered about the chassis instantly. The suspension won't be able to rebound or absorb bumps causing the tires to lose contact with the ground. Also the car will want to push on throttle and have a lot of oversteer, rear end come around, off throttle. This might be good for a drift setup I don't know.
Ride height should be adjusted using the threaded shock collars or using those plastic C spacers on non-threaded shock bodies.
If you use the droop screws to set the ride height... screws in contact with the chassis, I believe what you'd have is a snappy car, basically all weight will be transfered about the chassis instantly. The suspension won't be able to rebound or absorb bumps causing the tires to lose contact with the ground. Also the car will want to push on throttle and have a lot of oversteer, rear end come around, off throttle. This might be good for a drift setup I don't know.
wouldnt you have to have the car perfectly balanced in order to do that (wieght balance to the 4 wheels)...because if it wernt then the car would sag more on that side with more wieght
Originally Posted by anthony390
wouldnt you have to have the car perfectly balanced in order to do that (wieght balance to the 4 wheels)...because if it wernt then the car would sag more on that side with more wieght
Setting the ride height with the droop screws shouldn't be done. I mean, even when I drift with a TC3, I back out the droop screws so it's like they're not there. When you use the droop screws to set ride height, you're putting an instant preload on the spring, thus making it stiffer right off the bat.
I try to explain droop such as a "one-way sway bar." The arms can go up at different times with no effect, but they're stopped at a certin level going down, making them the same and flattening the car out. (As the weight transfers to the outside tire, the inside tire would be pushed down to the ground by the spring and shock dampening. But because the droop screws prevent that from happening, the car stays more flat through the corner because the arm can't be pushed down by the spring.)
^^^I hope it's understandable... =/
i got threadd shock, its leaking through the bottom part. Help me solve this. My old tc3 had same problem. Dont tell me this is a problem with the all the cars or else ima toss the piece of junk out
Tech Regular
Sounds like you need new o-rings. Be sure the shock shaft is straight by
rolling it on a flat surface.
rolling it on a flat surface.
Yes, I should have mentioned I set the tweak on a tweak board/station before I set the droop. Also, it's very important, a must really, to have the batteries, motor, counterfeit transponder, etc in the car just as it would be on the track.
About the shocks, most likely they need a rebuild. As said check the straightness of the shock shaft, more than likely all they need is new o-rings.
About the shocks, most likely they need a rebuild. As said check the straightness of the shock shaft, more than likely all they need is new o-rings.
If you have a lot of run time on your car (if it is older), I would inspect the shock shafts even closer. Most of them are made out of a stainless alloy that is quite porous. As dirt and minute dust particles fill the pores they become like little knives and cut the 'O' rings. Then you get leakage. There are two solutions. 1: new shock shafts every so often, 2: new "unobtanium" shock shafts that are an Associated aftermarket parts. They are expensive but you can go much longet between 'O' ring changes. Make sure that when you change 'O' rings that you change the oil too. The oil can hold a lot of dirt in suspension.
i installed a rebuild kit already and repalced everything! and they still leak shaft iss straight