Ask Keven Hebert, TeamAssociated / Reedy / ApexRC
12-18-2012, 10:45 AM
#587
12-18-2012, 12:11 PM
#589
Originally Posted by Marx View Post
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!
May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!
May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
Originally Posted by Keven H
Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
12-20-2012, 02:21 PM
#590
Lowering the whole link keeping the same angle, will raise the roll center, the difference seems to be less of an impact as lowering the bottom roll center but still is noticable for sure.
Question;
Will the 5.2 rear pod bulkheads work with the 5.1 lipo conversion? I ask because i have a 10r5 im vulturing a lot of
Parts to make a second 12th scale from. Just need 12th main chassis and rear hubs but with the 5.1 lipo upper brace id have no crossbrace in the rear. Could i use the newest ones? Ie, did the upper and lower plate holes move?
Will the 5.2 rear pod bulkheads work with the 5.1 lipo conversion? I ask because i have a 10r5 im vulturing a lot of
Parts to make a second 12th scale from. Just need 12th main chassis and rear hubs but with the 5.1 lipo upper brace id have no crossbrace in the rear. Could i use the newest ones? Ie, did the upper and lower plate holes move?
hope you found all the information you needed, please feel free to ask if you would like to know any additional information.
12-21-2012, 04:07 AM
#592
Keven,
I have two touring car mod questions for you, if you don't mind
On the front lower A arm mounts, if the hinge pin had been flat before but you wanted to add some anti-dive by going to a mount that would raise the rear mounting point of the front arm, to the next higher mount....In your thinking did the roll center stay the same as before if no other changes were made?
Second question, also Mod TC. On a high bite carpet track as the traction increases, what would you do to help prevent the car from diving down in the front at the end of a long straight? The rear tire might be lifting. Do you have some suggestions.
Thanks Keven,
Steve
I have two touring car mod questions for you, if you don't mind
On the front lower A arm mounts, if the hinge pin had been flat before but you wanted to add some anti-dive by going to a mount that would raise the rear mounting point of the front arm, to the next higher mount....In your thinking did the roll center stay the same as before if no other changes were made?
Second question, also Mod TC. On a high bite carpet track as the traction increases, what would you do to help prevent the car from diving down in the front at the end of a long straight? The rear tire might be lifting. Do you have some suggestions.
Thanks Keven,
Steve
01-02-2013, 01:45 PM
#594
Hi, unfortunately I will not be able to make it this year. I was hoping so but I am trying to attend one of the wics series race this season or early next season, looks like you guys have a good group going and a great series.
Hi Steve,
adding anti-dive by raising the rear block will raise the roll center by half a step, you can think of it by the height of the center of the hinge pin if that makes sens !
for your second question, there are numerous things you can do to keep the car from rolling over the front, one of the first think usualy when the car gets hard to drive, I like to go to a thicker front shock oil but that is with the setup I ran. adding shim to the inner front link will generaly help, reducing caster will help as well, you can also just take some rear droop out and that will help the car from not diving to the nose and be hard to drive mid corner. these are the things I generaly play with.
To be honest, I have not played much with that in a long time and have had my body like that for the last 2 years or so on carpet. I have had it a little forward like that for a long time but I dont think 1mm off of that makes much difference. when mounting a new body, I try to make it as close as the previous one for consistency but usualy end up about 1mm off of that anyway so I try not to take that too much into concideration. I Like to use foam so the body does not move around because otherwise you have to cut so much of the lip for it to not drag.
Keven,
I have two touring car mod questions for you, if you don't mind
On the front lower A arm mounts, if the hinge pin had been flat before but you wanted to add some anti-dive by going to a mount that would raise the rear mounting point of the front arm, to the next higher mount....In your thinking did the roll center stay the same as before if no other changes were made?
Second question, also Mod TC. On a high bite carpet track as the traction increases, what would you do to help prevent the car from diving down in the front at the end of a long straight? The rear tire might be lifting. Do you have some suggestions.
Thanks Keven,
Steve
I have two touring car mod questions for you, if you don't mind
On the front lower A arm mounts, if the hinge pin had been flat before but you wanted to add some anti-dive by going to a mount that would raise the rear mounting point of the front arm, to the next higher mount....In your thinking did the roll center stay the same as before if no other changes were made?
Second question, also Mod TC. On a high bite carpet track as the traction increases, what would you do to help prevent the car from diving down in the front at the end of a long straight? The rear tire might be lifting. Do you have some suggestions.
Thanks Keven,
Steve
adding anti-dive by raising the rear block will raise the roll center by half a step, you can think of it by the height of the center of the hinge pin if that makes sens !
for your second question, there are numerous things you can do to keep the car from rolling over the front, one of the first think usualy when the car gets hard to drive, I like to go to a thicker front shock oil but that is with the setup I ran. adding shim to the inner front link will generaly help, reducing caster will help as well, you can also just take some rear droop out and that will help the car from not diving to the nose and be hard to drive mid corner. these are the things I generaly play with.
To be honest, I have not played much with that in a long time and have had my body like that for the last 2 years or so on carpet. I have had it a little forward like that for a long time but I dont think 1mm off of that makes much difference. when mounting a new body, I try to make it as close as the previous one for consistency but usualy end up about 1mm off of that anyway so I try not to take that too much into concideration. I Like to use foam so the body does not move around because otherwise you have to cut so much of the lip for it to not drag.
01-07-2013, 02:50 PM
#599
5.2 Front track width???
Hi Keven, I noticed on the 12R5.2 set up sheets that some have the "upper" arm mounts spaced out 2mm and "lower" arms spaced 2mm; the upper link is lengthened either way. What is the handling difference? is one method preferred over the other?
Thanks in advance!!
Thanks in advance!!
01-08-2013, 08:46 AM
#600
Hi,
In most case having a wider front end will make the car push more. Now the longer the upper link, the easier the car is to drive going in but will generaly push a little more as well. I have been running 2mm on the upper arm and half a mm on the lower arm so the upper arm is spaced out 2.5mm from stock position. I feel like making the bottom arm any longer made my car push a little more going in but yet was not any easier to drive. I prefer to make the car wider on the axle and leave the top and bottom arm alone in most case that has been better for me, felt easier to drive and did not loose as much steering.