trx1

what a awsome tip!! looks like ill have to do to mine sometime soon

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

that lexan "tip" is wrong....you can't just cut a flat piece of lexan over the rack. it will bind up the steering big time if you do it this way

go to AE's website and download the proper instructions on how to make one.

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...rack_cover.PDF

note: if you don't have a really thin piece of lexan it will still bind a little causing drag on the drivetrain.

dynamic_e

iTrader: (56)

I am trying to make the fornt end of my TC3 bullet proof. I'm not the greatest driver yet and want to reduce front end breakage. I just popped in a RPM big bumper and was looking at Megatec or GPM delrin front arms, and carriers.

Anyone have any experience with these?

Nrctc3

iTrader: (2)

I think that bumpers all you need really...

Baluga

Hi,

Can anybody please correct me if 2.5 is the internal gear ratio of TC3. Does Speedmind distribute titanium screw set for TC3? Thanks

True R/C Racing

yep, Its 2.5 or 2.55 either one. NO I don't Know about the Screws. If your looking for Steels Screws(a bunch of them) I have for sale.

Baluga

Thanks for the info... I'm planning to replace all screws to ti screws.

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

2.5

Bubblestc3

The ratio is EXACTLY 2.5.

40/16=2.5

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

The infamous glitch continues!!! I took the inline schottky that novak supplies with the GT7, removed the heatshrink and wire. I then took a standard schottky diode and clipped the leads off of it. I then soldered the leads to the Novak schottky diode board (its marked + and - ) using care to NOT overheat the board. I then attach the "super" diode to any motor as i would any other diode. This neatened the wires in my TC3 and tremendously decreased the glitching, although i did get a few hits during race day with one particular motor, and no other. I also swapped the Ti driveshaft out of the car for a standard carbon. I am doing one thing at a time to see what the culprit is. On an interesting note, the diode board is printed on both sides, so if you wanted to attach the wires from your speedo to the opposite side of the diode board, instead of making it fit over the leads on the motor tabs, you can. I dont think the printed circuit can withstand repeated heat from an iron though. I just thought i would share my findings.

- DaveW

wrxnfx

iTrader: (30)

Hi, I'm new on this forum, but I was wondering:

If any of you know why the TC3 one-way diff was discontinued?

Does anyone have any recommendations on a good TC3 rally setup?

Does anyone have any recommendations for the lower suspension pins? I have bent both the stock ones and the Lunsford titanium ones(much weaker than the stock ones and Lunsford does not warranty these).

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I got a question:

I noticed that the bearing cap ( the little one that goes over the bearing near the spur gear ) seems to pinch the bearings, anyone else had this issue?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

wrxnfx, the one-way was not really discontinued. It was actually replaced with this part number, 3978. As for the suspension pins, Associated released some polished Factory Team pins part number 1651 or you can try the ones from Bud's (BRP) part number 6210.

Cain, I noticed it with mine as well. The only thing I did was back the screws out a little bit and it resolved my problem.

Kraig
KT Hobbies

roddude65

wrxnfx

I posted back a page or two .. maybe three .. that I use 3/32 piano wire from a local craft store for mine ... it takes about an hour or two to cut it down to length .. but each tube cost me like a $1.50 I think ... for two three foot lengths ... makes lots of pins for not much money and time .. I cut mine up using a dremel tool and a dremel cut off wheel ... just a thought ...

as far as rally set up ... I have never run a TC3 as a rally car so this is all a guess .. but I would try something like this ... remove all the droop screws or internal shock limiters and then set teh car up like this

front ... silver or blue springs, 30 wt oil with #1 piston, lay the shocks all the way down, use the f-2 block up front, 0* caster hub, -1* camber ... set the ride height to give you just about 1 or 2 mm of down travel before the arm hits the chassis and run the sway bar to help level the chassis

rear ... green or silver springs, 25 wt or 30 wt oil with #1 piston, lay the shocks all the way down, use the r+2+2 block, -1* camber, run the chassis short and use the sway bar ... also set the ride height the same way as with the front ...

run the batteries forward in the chassis ... set the diffs a little on the loose side so that landing off of a jump they will slip a little if under power ... say between 1/2 and 3/4 of a turn out from bottom for the front and maybe 3/4 to 1 full turn out for the rear .. or where ever the diff doesnt slip when applying power from a standstill ... setting the diffs loose like that will save on broken drive line parts from landing jumps ( kinda like a slipper clutch) .. but recheck them after every run .. cause if they loosen anymore they will toast the diff in a hurry .. then just play with the shock package to get the car to not bottom out off of the biggest jump on the track but I wouldnt go much heavier than 40wt oil or a red spring .. but like I said .. this is only a guess I havent done rally before ..

DaveW

sorry to hear that the glitch is back .. did you try the static guard it might help some ... but if it comes and goes with certain motors it really sounds like a bad bearing in a motor or a brush thats bouncing .. or something along those lines ... hope the solution presents itself soon for you ...

have fun racing

E

wolfeman09

Use the Tobee Craft one from SpeedTech RC. Its aluminum.

Also dont screw it down all the way, just like the tranny case