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Old 01-24-2008, 03:31 PM
  #3901  
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Yeah, It seems to mellow the car out and keep it from binding in tight corners and hairy chicanes.
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Old 01-24-2008, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by protc3
hairy chicanes.
I thought we already had this conversation
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:17 PM
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The LiPo is mounted Jason, i was thinking I'm cutting 3/4ths the weight I need to drop shock oil.

I'm going to start with like 15 in the shock and 3000 in the tubes
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:26 PM
  #3904  
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seeing how i only race carpet like 5 times a year ived tried everything in my tubes 3,5,7,10,12,15. I seem to like the 15 the most, it just makes the car so easy to drive and really predictable.
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:43 PM
  #3905  
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thanks for the feedback everyone on the lube. i'm going to try your suggestions. does anyone know the official density of the Speedmerchant Red (medium) and Blue (thick) spooge?

a few more questions-

why is it recommended to ream out the front end steering blocks on the associated reactive caster front end? doesn't this counter act the effectiveness of the kingpin spring (the steering block moves on the kingpin before the spring bottoms out)? or does this actually keep the chassis more level?

when did people start putting a lube in the bottom pivot ball of the associated reactive caster front end?

thanks again.
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:53 PM
  #3906  
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On the front end we shim the top of the king pin to take up for the size differences in springs as they get compressed, to adjust droop (rarely), and to preload the spring. If the king pin binds on the steering block a hard knock can push the king pin up and the steering block will keep it there causing more preload then you would want.
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:29 AM
  #3907  
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quick question, if you want to add an extra shim to the front suspension, does it matter where you add it?
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:28 AM
  #3908  
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Originally Posted by abailey21
The LiPo is mounted Jason, i was thinking I'm cutting 3/4ths the weight I need to drop shock oil.

I'm going to start with like 15 in the shock and 3000 in the tubes

Are you guys going to race that? With 13.5's and Lipo you will be running as fast as open mod 1/12th. Let me know...if so I will bring parts for you and Shawn on Sunday...lol!
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:07 AM
  #3909  
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Were gearing down lol

Quick question, what was that "tube spooge" that PW liked so much, green slime or something???

Originally Posted by AdrianM
Are you guys going to race that? With 13.5's and Lipo you will be running as fast as open mod 1/12th. Let me know...if so I will bring parts for you and Shawn on Sunday...lol!
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:22 AM
  #3910  
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Originally Posted by Hazey
quick question, if you want to add an extra shim to the front suspension, does it matter where you add it?
I usually add the shims to the very top on top of the upper suspension arm eyelet. This will keep your camber gain to a minimum when you compress the front suspension.
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:27 AM
  #3911  
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Originally Posted by hanulec
thanks for the feedback everyone on the lube. i'm going to try your suggestions. does anyone know the official density of the Speedmerchant Red (medium) and Blue (thick) spooge?

a few more questions-

why is it recommended to ream out the front end steering blocks on the associated reactive caster front end? doesn't this counter act the effectiveness of the kingpin spring (the steering block moves on the kingpin before the spring bottoms out)? or does this actually keep the chassis more level?

when did people start putting a lube in the bottom pivot ball of the associated reactive caster front end?

thanks again.
Im not sure on the SM lube comparables since i never tried them.

You want to ream the steering block after installing the threaded axle to keep the kingpins from sticking inside of it. What can happen in a crash is your kingpin can slide in the steering block and if the fit is too tight, it will not be able to return to position and make the car feel tweaked.

We started putting oil on the kinpins when we realized that it actually helped plant the front of the car. It slows the reaction of the spring down a bit to keep it from acting as a pogo stick. It really smoothes the car out. We dont go too heavy though. I usually run 5000 wt and i dont really mess with it too much. With the windtunnel surelube i go back and fourth with the #3 and 4
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:27 AM
  #3912  
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Originally Posted by Kropy
I thought we already had this conversation
fruity
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Old 01-25-2008, 11:30 AM
  #3913  
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How often should you replace the lube in your damper tubes and the kingpins?
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Old 01-25-2008, 11:39 AM
  #3914  
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I relube both each race day. I do this to make sure there is no dirt or grit in the tubes or on the pivot balls and kingpins. If they dont look bad you may be able to get 2 race days.
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Old 01-25-2008, 11:49 AM
  #3915  
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do you need to, and how do you remove all the old lube?
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