BMI's DB12R
#3904
seeing how i only race carpet like 5 times a year ived tried everything in my tubes 3,5,7,10,12,15. I seem to like the 15 the most, it just makes the car so easy to drive and really predictable.
#3905
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
thanks for the feedback everyone on the lube. i'm going to try your suggestions. does anyone know the official density of the Speedmerchant Red (medium) and Blue (thick) spooge?
a few more questions-
why is it recommended to ream out the front end steering blocks on the associated reactive caster front end? doesn't this counter act the effectiveness of the kingpin spring (the steering block moves on the kingpin before the spring bottoms out)? or does this actually keep the chassis more level?
when did people start putting a lube in the bottom pivot ball of the associated reactive caster front end?
thanks again.
a few more questions-
why is it recommended to ream out the front end steering blocks on the associated reactive caster front end? doesn't this counter act the effectiveness of the kingpin spring (the steering block moves on the kingpin before the spring bottoms out)? or does this actually keep the chassis more level?
when did people start putting a lube in the bottom pivot ball of the associated reactive caster front end?
thanks again.
#3906
Tech Champion
On the front end we shim the top of the king pin to take up for the size differences in springs as they get compressed, to adjust droop (rarely), and to preload the spring. If the king pin binds on the steering block a hard knock can push the king pin up and the steering block will keep it there causing more preload then you would want.
#3907
quick question, if you want to add an extra shim to the front suspension, does it matter where you add it?
#3911
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
thanks for the feedback everyone on the lube. i'm going to try your suggestions. does anyone know the official density of the Speedmerchant Red (medium) and Blue (thick) spooge?
a few more questions-
why is it recommended to ream out the front end steering blocks on the associated reactive caster front end? doesn't this counter act the effectiveness of the kingpin spring (the steering block moves on the kingpin before the spring bottoms out)? or does this actually keep the chassis more level?
when did people start putting a lube in the bottom pivot ball of the associated reactive caster front end?
thanks again.
a few more questions-
why is it recommended to ream out the front end steering blocks on the associated reactive caster front end? doesn't this counter act the effectiveness of the kingpin spring (the steering block moves on the kingpin before the spring bottoms out)? or does this actually keep the chassis more level?
when did people start putting a lube in the bottom pivot ball of the associated reactive caster front end?
thanks again.
You want to ream the steering block after installing the threaded axle to keep the kingpins from sticking inside of it. What can happen in a crash is your kingpin can slide in the steering block and if the fit is too tight, it will not be able to return to position and make the car feel tweaked.
We started putting oil on the kinpins when we realized that it actually helped plant the front of the car. It slows the reaction of the spring down a bit to keep it from acting as a pogo stick. It really smoothes the car out. We dont go too heavy though. I usually run 5000 wt and i dont really mess with it too much. With the windtunnel surelube i go back and fourth with the #3 and 4
#3915
do you need to, and how do you remove all the old lube?