gimpex

[QUOTE=Akudou;6656873]Ran through the same problem on my 3Racing knuckle, it broke on the same part that you mention while i was drifting on tile track. Change the broken one to plastic original ones and tried TC on asphlat when i bump the side of another car and broke the other one as well. Am running both plastic right now to play safe. $16 down the drain.. even my 3racing sterring kit has a slight play on the bearing side so i might consider removing all my 3racing parts as i dont wanna risk anything on my upcoming race which is 20 days away

QUOTE]

Hey , bummer ! But it does sound strange that this is the part breaking all the time...is it a problem others are having there too? Since I went back to plastic ,I only replaced once and that was due to the threaded holes being a bit loose. And I have had a few bumps too. On one of the tracks the guard down the straight as you come out of a fast sweeper is a metal pipe....

Are they fitted as per manual ?

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

So far as i know the rest running the 3Racing front knuckle have been using it on the TB03D's for drifting and i have yet to hear complains from them. As for me, learnt my lesson already. Couldnt find the original part of the TB03 plastic knuckle or front upright so i had to do with dripping a lil superglue in to the threaded holes.

The Steering kit are fitted as manual but the arm linkange holding the steering set from the right to the left from the 3racing parts wouldnt fit so i had to use the original plastic parts from the VerII. Guess i have to source out every possible hopup parts from Tamiya since they have the most reliable parts around but it is very limited in our local store here.

For my drift session i ran 29T 0.4 pinion while on TC i ran 37T 0.4 both on (105spur) 9T motor and am quite please with the perfomances although at almost exiting the corner, my rear seems to slide suddenly, thought that i might have set my rear diff too tight but when i loosen it abit, it seems to be running on FWD. Might try other tyres and see if thats still the factor.

QUOTE]

Hey , bummer ! But it does sound strange that this is the part breaking all the time...is it a problem others are having there too? Since I went back to plastic ,I only replaced once and that was due to the threaded holes being a bit loose. And I have had a few bumps too. On one of the tracks the guard down the straight as you come out of a fast sweeper is a metal pipe....

Are they fitted as per manual ?[/QUOTE]

Pingers

iTrader: (8)

I have been debating on-road cars for the TC class for a few weeks now. I was down in Chicago for the weekend and I saw a really awesome on-road in a show case. The owner said it was a TA05 IFS, very nicely upgraded.

I was debating a TC4(new), TC5(used) or Xray2(used) until I heard that my LHS does not carry parts for the Xray2.

I REALLY love the TA05V2(new), but is up to par with the TC5? What is your non bias recomendation? I will be running a 17.5 brushless w/ Lipo. Nothing insanely fast, I need a forgiving car with great handling and something that I can upgrade in time.

I'm a new on-road racer so I don't need a $500 car that I can smack up my first time out. But I also want to be competitive.

Skitee

The TA-05 Ver.II can be as competitive as most cars out there in the right hands and with the right setup, you can't really do a comparison fairly between a TC5 and TA-05 because the TC5 is a full carbon & aluminium competition level touring car and the TA-05 is a plastic tub mid level touring car. The TA-05 only needs a little cash thrown at it from kit spec to be made a serious contender.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I'm a bit new to the on-road scene,

Why must CF and aluminum be thrown at these cars?

My experience with off-road tells me that CF and aluminum is a nice factor, but plastic components are just as effective (sometimes even more effective) than CF and aluminum parts...

Pingers

iTrader: (8)

That's a great question. The guys I raced with a few weeks ago had TC5's and they were all throwing weights on their Lipo packs and chassis to make it heavier because it was too light. That of course being if weight is the only factor.

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Got myself Tamiya's stabiliser bars and when i tried installing it according to the manual i find some problems installing it to the front lower arm. Does anyone have any step by step pictures on installing it or does anyone have a closeup pic of the whole front part?

niznai

In your situation, it's a good option, but don't expect to break any records with it. In 17.5 though you will have a hard time tuning it for good handling if you race rubber on carpet. If you're on asphalt, it's a lot easier.

Don't think that throwing a lot of cash will make it faster. It will makke it more reliable, and more repetitive (i.e. when you adjust something it will have the same effect every time as opposed to a plastic car which may or may not have any effect at all). That's the reason top end cars use CF. It gives them stiffness and reliable flex. Plainly, a plastic tub is molded and you never have two tubs flexing identically even if they come off the same mold. With CF you do (or you should). You can have a CF tub too, but again, that's going to make the car very rigid, so you need good suspension tuning given that the chassis won't flex. With high grip surfaces that's not going to be a problem but with low traction it may.

You can't be competitive if your car isn't. Out of the box, I would recommend the TA05 in 540 class or 21.5 BL at the most. Any higher than that and you'll be quite a few laps down. Get some universals to begin with. Get some decent shocks (TRF) and some suspension blocks. These are all necessary to enable you to set up the car properly. No use trying to set it up when it's all plastic as the slop will be more than the fine adjustment you are trying to make (i.e. no point trying to adjust the shock rebound when the shock body wobbles up and down in the balljoints more than your entire rebound. It'll just flop around regardless. so there you go). You can do without these upgrades but you won't get very far, and the third time you will have to replace a plastic suspension block you will realise you have spent the money that could have bought you the aluminium one. Likewise with the rest.

In the end you might spend more than it cost to buy a proper car to begin with, but it's up to you how far you want to go.

In the past, Tamiya offerred the TA05 cars as "R" versions which were really good value for money (TA05-R and TA05 IFS-R). The TRF upgrades alone (universals, shocks, suspension parts) were worth more than what the kit cost. If you find one of these, that would be a cracker. I think the TA05 IFS-R might still be around if you dig deep enough. I was never a fan of the inboard suspension, but I think you have all the parts in the box to make it a "normal" suspension, so no big deal.

If you do buy it and want upgrades, resist temptation and don't buy anything other than Tamiya. They're just crap and don't work. I don't like I have to pay the price either, but I tried almost everything else on the market and it's just a waste of time and money.

Pingers

iTrader: (8)

Wow, some great information niznai. I can't thank you enough for your input. Do you think Tamiya's #92217 would be the way to go then when it comes out? It's going to come with the most popular hop-ups.

I can't post the link because I'm too new but it's RC TA05 Version II Chassis Kit Tamiya Item# 92217

niznai

Had a look, it's a good start, but the universals are a must and they're going to be another about 70$. "Most popular" upgrades means nothing really. The one-way is useful if you race on a big outdoor track but indoor on a twisty carpet track is tricky. The rest is just rubbish I didn't even use on my car. High torque-servo saver wears out the spring shoulders and the steering doesn't center properly anymore, the stickers who gives a crap?, the aluminium servo horn is just bling, the wheels and tires are average at best, the alloy suspension bits might take some slop away, and that's about it. I would trade all these for a set of universals.

The TA05-R had a lot more stuff on it (apart from shocks and universals), including alloy wheelhubs, reversible short suspension arms, alloy turnbuckles, alloy steering,alloy suspension blocks and so on (I can't even remember everything). Have a look here:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49418

I seriously think they lost money on those kits, which is why I don't think you're going to see them come back again. But who knows? Try hard and maybe you're lucky?

Pingers

iTrader: (8)

And the universals are what exactly? Sorry for the noob question, I'm just not firmilar with the term when it comes to RC.

It sounds like the TA05-R was a great setup. Though if it held a price tag of $399 that is well over my budget new. I can score a TC5 used roller for <$200 pretty easily in the for sale section, it will take a little more time for a TA05-R to show up, but if it's worth the wait maybe I shouldn't go with a TA05V2 if it's lacking many of the expected upgrades a proper competition level TC should have.

niznai

Universals are articulated driveshafts with outboard CV joints like in real cars as opposed to "dog bone" driveshafts.

Don't look at those prices. The MSRP on the Tamiya site is wank (where have you seen a 700+$ car as they suggest their 416X is?). In the shop the "R" kits were about 200$ new.

TC5 is not easy to set up for a newbie. That's why I said in your situation the Tamiya cars are a better option. Tamiya makes cars very easy to drive for anyone.

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

I wouldn't recommend CVD's unless your running mod or at least below 13.5. I run my car with a 17.5 and I have no issues at all with dog bones, just make sure you use the foam spacers. Even my plastic out drives show no signs of wear and I run my diffs fairly tight. Overall I think the necessary parts needed to get the car to race trim is first change your gearing to suit your track then get TRF shocks, bearings in your steering crank and rocker arms and the aluminum suspension mounts both front and rear. Although I went a little overboard and bought everything. My car's feel changed dramatically by adding what I mentioned. If you get the aluminum mounts get the coated ball cups instead of the plastic ones.

sgvrcboy

ta-05 is a GREAT car to get to start off.....bling bling doesnt win u races.....its all about the set up and how much time u spend with the car..alot of ppl can say this and that about all cars in the market.....

PJBatman

how is averyone to night i need to know what oil to put in the front and back. on the slip how tight should it bee

the oils I have is 30 @ 40 %
thanks for the help