bigwavedave33

iTrader: (1212)

Yeah see that. Based on the kit setup it should be 2.5s. I don't think I have any 2.6 so its all good

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

WHAT?!?!?!?! XRAY can make mistakes. Say it isnt so. May faith in the entire system has now fallen apart and I dont know what to do from here on out. How can we ever trust anyone ever again?

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Oops. Reading comprehension failure. I missed the word "spur".

-Mike

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Boostgod

iTrader: (8)

How are you guys liking your 2015s?

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Ran my 2015 for the first time last weekend with the ARS rear end option and absolutly like the car. The ARS is setup in a neutral toe gain/loss and hope to begin trying adjustments to see if it works better with rear toe gain while cornering. The car seems to be easier to drive fast and provides more consistent laps overall.

Geberit

How do you shim the ARS to get neutral toe gain/loss?

Skiddins

I believe 1.5mm should just about do it.
But if you aren't going to use it's effect may I suggest you fit the standard rear end.

locked

iTrader: (1)

Sounds about right, since 1mm of shims gives a bit of toe in under compression and 2mm of shims gives a bit of toe out under compression, I would expect 1.5mm to be about as neutral as you can get it.

I didn't spend a ton of time playing around with ARS before going back to the standard rear. On the local carpet tracks I race at, it just felt more predictable with the standard rear.

ARS is a cool addition, but I can't say I liked the feel of it during my limited testing on medium-high traction carpet. I will probably eventually come across tracks that I will prefer using ARS on, just not yet.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Used a 1mm shim on the ARS chassis post, which gave me little to no toe gain/loss under compression. I imagine Skiddins would be more correct with using the 1.5mm shims to obtain the desired effect. I plan to keep using the ARS configuration and test the possibilities, before reconfiguring it to a prebuilt standard rear suspension setup. Ready to go back to what we know works very well, if conditions call for a change. Ran this on a carpet medium bite-tight-technical track. Changes from box setup were 2.7 F-Springs w/425cst, 2.5 R-Springs w/400cst, Aluminum Dual Servo Saver Arm Set, Aluminum Center Chassis Post, and removed the 4 Layshaft Bulkhead screws. This setup worked great on our local track, for the given conditions and hope to improve rear traction just a bit next time out, but overall I am very pleased. Hope this is helpful and you are able to find a setup that works well for your track conditions.

oladele

I love the ARS, but I made a slight change in the stock set up which and a huge difference in the feel of the car mid corner and on exit. The manual calls for you to screw the steering link into the knuckle from the bottom, I screwed it in from the top with no shims. Then the post in which the ARS attaches to the chassis I added 4mm of shimming 2mm at the bottom and 2mm at the top of the post. Due to the additional shim you will need a slightly longer screw for the bottom of the chassis. This allowed the ARS to really come to life. Slightly less initial turn in however you gain a ton mid corner and on exit. Mho

gocoogs

iTrader: (24)

For those of you struggling with ARS on carpet, Try adding 1/2 mm anti-squat (RR lower than RF) It helps plant the rear end on power and increases initial steering too. The car stays flatter, turns in better and lets you get more aggressive with throttle action mid corner.

jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

Can you share your set up?

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

Hi Guys,

Have a new car in the mail, is there any items to take special note of on assembly? (have had xrays since FK05)

Any must do additions?

Cheers

stoto

Even the updated manual has issues showing the correct sized ball ends going into the top of the front c-hubs. Make sure you check the blown picture on page 18. On this page the sizes are correct (10mm thread into c-hubs, 8mm into rear uprights).
http://www.teamxray.com/t4/download/...015_manual.pdf

Absolutely the best choice I've made, choosing that car.
It's like handles itself, very forgiving and durable.

On my own fault (didn't use enough locktite) one of the rear driveshaft fall out of the car during the last part of the race (screw loosened, pin lost, driveshaft fall apart). I could still do an other 2 laps and finish the race as third.

All I felt, is that the car didn't had enough "power", the acceleration was slow.
I guess the other rear driveshaft wasn't doing much, because of the rear diff having a free rotation to the side of the missing driveshaft.

So "forgiving" works in a sense as well where you loose half of the car during the race and still keep going