robk

iTrader: (22)

BTW Bob Stellflue showed me a way to get the swaybars equal, even if you have a little tweak in the bar (dogleg, whatever you want to call it).

1.Make sure droop is even side to side

2.Remove shocks

3.Turn the car upside down. Look at the sway bar ends. If everything is good they should be level in relation to each other, they should flop down equally. Basically, you need to lift each arm, and see what happens when you push it until the droop screw touches. The other side should react equally, and touch too. Then check the opposite side the same way.

4.They may be uneven. You need to adjust the ball end length until they react the same way.

5. If you have a hard time with this, then the sway bar might be pretty out of whack. You may have to bend it a bit to get it flat again.

stonedgti

iTrader: (15)

Good job at the snowbirds Team AE.

Here is a new video of our local race at AllSpeed Hobbies on Tuesday night. TC5 on top again.

http://ammdesigns.podcastpeople.com

Hey Brandon: Can you post up your rubber set-up from the birds? Thanks.

B4Bandit

iTrader: (10)

Great vid! Tight track man, some smooth driving from the winner

Nice two wheel corner half way through!!!

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Alrighty!! Ran my TC5 first time last night (13.5 rubber) using Ken Pepe's setup posted earlier in the thread. Only differences were I don't have the ITF chassis so I added the o rings to the back of the top deck and I didn't get the front pistons changed (ran #3 vs #2 on the setup). Wow did that thing react! Did I say wow! I was shocked at how nimble it was and yet I could still drive it consistently. Next run I'll get the shock pistons changed out and see if that calms the car down a tiny bit. Even if it doesn't I was pleased. I had been running mostly 21 lap runs with my cyclone and with the TC5 I ran all 22's for the night. My only issue was it took about 5 laps or so for the car to really get going. Little loose in the rear and pushed quite a bit on power in those first few laps. After that I could push it as hard as I dared.

Happy camper so far!!

wallstreet

iTrader: (24)

another thing you can try when still running the stock chassis and topdeck is running orings under all the screws on the topdeck... except the bellcrank screw. I have seen some guys running that with success. Also you may try running silver springs up front and green in the rear. The stock chassis and top deck combo is super stiff, and you could soften the car up that way, without changing much of anything.

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, is the time to set droop right after you mount the front and rear arms to the chassis. If not when is the accurate time to set it.

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, is the time to set droop right after you mount the front and rear arms to the chassis. If not when is the accurate time to set it.

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, is the time to set droop right after you mount the front and rear arms to the chassis. If not when is the accurate time to set it.

bigemike

iTrader: (36)

I would set droop after the car is built and ride hieght is set. You usually want like 1.5mm all around and adjust from there.

You can also use the associated gauge if you want, if you are using rubber tires there is a known ride hieght and droop and if you are going to set it like that then you could set it when building the car.

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

Like said above, if using Rubber Tires, use the included AE gauge to set the "downstop". If you are using Foam Tires, the tires will wear and ride height is effected, so this will have to be adjusted AFTER the tires are mounted and ride height is set.

When running Foam Tires, you really need to use a ride height gauge that reads between at 4-7mm. Use the ride height gauge to set droop above ride height. In other words, if you want a 1mm front droop (seen on many setup sheets) and have a ride height of 4.5mm, then you will place the ride height gauge under the car at 5.5mm and adjust the droop screw until the front tires just touch the ground.

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Thanks much Mike I guess I'll wait until I finish.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

what's the difference in using the losi shock pistons vs. the ae ones? how does the car react differently?

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

if anyone is interested.. i am selling my TC5. you can view it here. Thanks.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=205008

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Thanks kn for the help with the droop!

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

why would you want to use the optional rear hubs (0.5, 1.0 degree), when you can change toe with the shims at the bulkhead?