GT class--buggy-based on road!
03-03-2009, 11:46 AM
#1951
lol Jaun I am aware what works for you might not work for me I just trying to get an idea of what others use for there set ups. Its like pulling teeth to get any one to just post there set up in here.
03-03-2009, 12:04 PM
#1952
This is what I helped Bvoltz come up with as far as a list of engines for the "spec" class when we were running these cars in the Bass Pro Series in Jackson, MS:
1. OS .21VG-X, part # OSMG 2059
2. Sportwerks .26 V2 pull start, part # SWK 8085
3. Dynamite Mach .26 pull start, part # DYN 0887
4. Dynamite Mach 427 pull start, part # DYN 0895
5. OFNA Force .28 pull start, part #52217
6. Axial .28 spec 1s pull start, part #AX001 (green), part #AX002 (black)
All of the engines were comparable as far as HP was concerned and all were at a low cost. We did not require a racer to change to any of these over the stock engine in the car, but, if they were having difficulties with their stock engine, these were the replacements that could be substituted. So, a racer could run the RTR engine that came in the car or change to one of these. This was also done as not to leave the LHS out since most of these are carried or easily acquired by the LHSs where we raced. The Texas series (SWCS), we decided to also have an open class where anything goes as far as engine choices because some guys like to spend tons of monies on that stuff. But as far as "spec", the box engines or one from the above list only, no exceptions!!
Oh, thanks for the link. Very useful info as far as true engine HP.
1. OS .21VG-X, part # OSMG 2059
2. Sportwerks .26 V2 pull start, part # SWK 8085
3. Dynamite Mach .26 pull start, part # DYN 0887
4. Dynamite Mach 427 pull start, part # DYN 0895
5. OFNA Force .28 pull start, part #52217
6. Axial .28 spec 1s pull start, part #AX001 (green), part #AX002 (black)
All of the engines were comparable as far as HP was concerned and all were at a low cost. We did not require a racer to change to any of these over the stock engine in the car, but, if they were having difficulties with their stock engine, these were the replacements that could be substituted. So, a racer could run the RTR engine that came in the car or change to one of these. This was also done as not to leave the LHS out since most of these are carried or easily acquired by the LHSs where we raced. The Texas series (SWCS), we decided to also have an open class where anything goes as far as engine choices because some guys like to spend tons of monies on that stuff. But as far as "spec", the box engines or one from the above list only, no exceptions!!
Oh, thanks for the link. Very useful info as far as true engine HP.
Based on this list comparing the GXR28 you have the following differences on your approved spec engines;
Sportswork .26 = +.14 hp but -3 in-oz torque
Dynomite 427 is not listed but the Trinity version is and it is = -.14 hp and -8 in-oz torque
OFNA force 26 = -.14 hp and -.8 in-oz torque
Axial .28 = +.27 hp and +.19 0n-in torque
Have you seen all these engines run and do their performance on the track line-up with the info published in the article?
Lee
Who knows what pipes were used.
03-03-2009, 12:12 PM
#1954
I am running GT1 with GRP 28
03-03-2009, 12:42 PM
#1955
I ran a GT1 all last year and now I am running a GT2. The difference for me is that the GT2 is easier to drive. I thought that the longer wheelbase of the GT2 would make the car difficult to turn but it actually turns better than the GT1.
Our Spec class requires that the cars remain stock except for; 1) radio, 2) brake upgrade, 3) sway bars, and 4) front stiffener. I put the Kyo IFW324 brake pads and sway bars on my car. The set-up that worked best for me on the GT1 car was;
front
camber = +1/2
tow = +1 per side
shock angle = top in lowest hole and bottom in the furthest out hole
sway bar = stiffest
tires = Ipanema 45
ride height = about 1mm lower than the rear
Diff lube = I tried everything from 100k to 3k. I ended up with 7k in the front.
Shock oil = Serpent 50 (really thick - their thickest oil)
I experimented with ackerman angle but could not tell much difference.
I used the front Droop Screws to control the ride height and cranked the front spring keepers down some to make the front springs stiffer.
rear
Camber = -2.5
toe = stock
shock angle = top in the highest hole and bottom furthest out
sway bar = softest
tires = Ipanema 45
Ride height = dog bones angled slightly up from the diff
Diff lube = I tried everything from 30K to 3k and ended up with 3k
Shock oil = either Serpent 45 or 50.
I used the rear droop setting to control the ride height. Whenever I loosened the rear droop the car would get loose.
Gear = I put the GT2 gears on the car which made it faster.
My GT1 car was ballistic! This is what worked for me. I sold the car and the new owner races with us and it is fast for him too.
Lee
Our Spec class requires that the cars remain stock except for; 1) radio, 2) brake upgrade, 3) sway bars, and 4) front stiffener. I put the Kyo IFW324 brake pads and sway bars on my car. The set-up that worked best for me on the GT1 car was;
front
camber = +1/2
tow = +1 per side
shock angle = top in lowest hole and bottom in the furthest out hole
sway bar = stiffest
tires = Ipanema 45
ride height = about 1mm lower than the rear
Diff lube = I tried everything from 100k to 3k. I ended up with 7k in the front.
Shock oil = Serpent 50 (really thick - their thickest oil)
I experimented with ackerman angle but could not tell much difference.
I used the front Droop Screws to control the ride height and cranked the front spring keepers down some to make the front springs stiffer.
rear
Camber = -2.5
toe = stock
shock angle = top in the highest hole and bottom furthest out
sway bar = softest
tires = Ipanema 45
Ride height = dog bones angled slightly up from the diff
Diff lube = I tried everything from 30K to 3k and ended up with 3k
Shock oil = either Serpent 45 or 50.
I used the rear droop setting to control the ride height. Whenever I loosened the rear droop the car would get loose.
Gear = I put the GT2 gears on the car which made it faster.
My GT1 car was ballistic! This is what worked for me. I sold the car and the new owner races with us and it is fast for him too.
Lee
03-03-2009, 02:09 PM
#1956
Guest
Juan, looks like I will be stuck running what I have. Its a Kanai 3 chassis with the GT shock towers etc to allow mounting a GT body on it. It will probably not have a 2 speed in it. Do you think the .26 you are running has enough grunt to pull tall gears and get it off the corners.
03-03-2009, 09:28 PM
#1957
Thanks for the info, I am running 100 in front and 5 in rear, I have not tried anything else yet, but here in Vegas and In cali , when we run rubber I use the PMT tires.
03-04-2009, 06:00 AM
#1958
If you go to a lighter oil in front you should get more steering especially off throttle. The only draw back is the possibility of diffing under braking. I only experienced this when I applied too much brake when I was already well into the turn. Overall the lighter diff oils gave my car more traction at the front and rear which resulted in a car that was easier to drive and one that turned faster lap times.
Lee
03-04-2009, 06:41 AM
#1959
Juan, looks like I will be stuck running what I have. Its a Kanai 3 chassis with the GT shock towers etc to allow mounting a GT body on it. It will probably not have a 2 speed in it. Do you think the .26 you are running has enough grunt to pull tall gears and get it off the corners.
Your car would classify you for running in the GTRTR open class only. So, you could run any onroad or offroad .21 or any engine up to size .28 you want. The Sportwerks would probably be okay but with your car classified as an open car, you can used any of the higher powered, non-pullstart motor for the power and torque you need, especially with tall gears.
Juan
03-04-2009, 06:56 AM
#1960
Guest
Yea, thats the problem. If I could spend $300.00 plus for an engine I would just get a new car and run the spec class. Looks like the Axial is the ringer of the bunch for the money. I may try it. I have too much RC junk sitting around and none of it runs except my T-Maxx, Its going on the self to sell shortly. Time to clean house.
03-04-2009, 07:52 AM
#1961
Yea, thats the problem. If I could spend $300.00 plus for an engine I would just get a new car and run the spec class. Looks like the Axial is the ringer of the bunch for the money. I may try it. I have too much RC junk sitting around and none of it runs except my T-Maxx, Its going on the self to sell shortly. Time to clean house.
03-04-2009, 10:43 AM
#1963
Yea, I was thinking about getting the Axial engine as well to try out in my IGT2. All of the Axial engines are very affordable and look to produce good power and torque. It would be nice to see you at the next race if you could make it. I have slowly been cleaning house myself.
For me, the gray headed axial ran much better on 20% than it did on 30%. Your actual mileage may vary....
03-04-2009, 11:22 AM
#1964
03-04-2009, 12:41 PM
#1965
I have been have steering issue going into the turns I will try the lighter oil. Thanks