Hot Bodies Cyclone
06-09-2010, 02:39 PM
WOW 
I've been using Xray and the purple HPI 116-64p spur gears for more the 3 years with the optional HB BL motor mount. I'm now using the lipo mount with the 2mm spacer that comes with it.
Yes I had to take a little off the RTP but the 116 will NOT stick out past the bottom of my 2 HB V1,V2 & 1 BMI chassis AT ALL.
I've been using Xray and the purple HPI 116-64p spur gears for more the 3 years with the optional HB BL motor mount. I'm now using the lipo mount with the 2mm spacer that comes with it.Yes I had to take a little off the RTP but the 116 will NOT stick out past the bottom of my 2 HB V1,V2 & 1 BMI chassis AT ALL.
I am using the (os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2064) 3racing aluminum motor mount
Is that comparable to the (hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/61298.html) Brushless motor mount
or the (hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/61314.html) aluminum motor mount?
I am using the lipo conversion, so I am trying to figure out if I need to use the spacer under the deck mount.
Last edited by killer_tofu; 06-09-2010 at 04:42 PM.
06-10-2010, 05:10 AM
I have the 3R motor mount and use an ORCA lipo with no shims needed.
06-10-2010, 05:43 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Thats very funny 
I like using large spur gears because I can use a slightly larger pinion and still get the FDR needed for my mod (3cell 5700KV) @ 24/116.
I was using the 16 tooth lay shaft pulleys, now using the 18's.
I see there will be 20 tooth so for MOD racing the larger spurs will help. The bigger lay shaft pulleys seems to help the life of the belts.
I like using large spur gears because I can use a slightly larger pinion and still get the FDR needed for my mod (3cell 5700KV) @ 24/116.I was using the 16 tooth lay shaft pulleys, now using the 18's.
I see there will be 20 tooth so for MOD racing the larger spurs will help. The bigger lay shaft pulleys seems to help the life of the belts.
Last edited by Lazer Guy; 06-10-2010 at 08:52 AM.
06-10-2010, 12:07 PM
Hi Guys
I notice on the new car TCX, that they didn't take the oppotunity to re-design how to change the way you alter the roll centre, like it can be on the X-Ray 09 for instance, instead of those pesky 1mm 1.5mm etc washers, also the way the ackerman could be altered to, I personally think HB missed a great oppotunity to have a 100% perfect car imo
Cheers Malc TCCFM
I notice on the new car TCX, that they didn't take the oppotunity to re-design how to change the way you alter the roll centre, like it can be on the X-Ray 09 for instance, instead of those pesky 1mm 1.5mm etc washers, also the way the ackerman could be altered to, I personally think HB missed a great oppotunity to have a 100% perfect car imo
Cheers Malc TCCFM
06-10-2010, 12:23 PM
Hi Guys
I notice on the new car TCX, that they didn't take the oppotunity to re-design how to change the way you alter the roll centre, like it can be on the X-Ray 09 for instance, instead of those pesky 1mm 1.5mm etc washers, also the way the ackerman could be altered to, I personally think HB missed a great oppotunity to have a 100% perfect car imo
Cheers Malc TCCFM
I notice on the new car TCX, that they didn't take the oppotunity to re-design how to change the way you alter the roll centre, like it can be on the X-Ray 09 for instance, instead of those pesky 1mm 1.5mm etc washers, also the way the ackerman could be altered to, I personally think HB missed a great oppotunity to have a 100% perfect car imo
Cheers Malc TCCFM
Not so much on the camber link adjustment. With the TCX it's only limited by the thickness of the shim(s) you put in. On the Xray you're at the mercy of the QRC things. If you're using the L1/L2 QRC adjusters the change between the 4 positions is huge. No fine adjustments there unless you want to pay for the original and H1/H2 adjusters (not cheap for what they are, then again nothing Xray is cheap
) Even then the adjustment range is too coarse.Don't get me wrong I like my T3, but I'm really looking forward to seeing the TCX perform
06-10-2010, 12:45 PM
I'll agree on the ackerman... Xray is super easy.
Not so much on the camber link adjustment. With the TCX it's only limited by the thickness of the shim(s) you put in. On the Xray you're at the mercy of the QRC things. If you're using the L1/L2 QRC adjusters the change between the 4 positions is huge. No fine adjustments there unless you want to pay for the original and H1/H2 adjusters (not cheap for what they are, then again nothing Xray is cheap) Even then the adjustment range is too coarse.
Don't get me wrong I like my T3, but I'm really looking forward to seeing the TCX perform
Not so much on the camber link adjustment. With the TCX it's only limited by the thickness of the shim(s) you put in. On the Xray you're at the mercy of the QRC things. If you're using the L1/L2 QRC adjusters the change between the 4 positions is huge. No fine adjustments there unless you want to pay for the original and H1/H2 adjusters (not cheap for what they are, then again nothing Xray is cheap
) Even then the adjustment range is too coarse.Don't get me wrong I like my T3, but I'm really looking forward to seeing the TCX perform
Cheers Malc TCCFM
06-10-2010, 10:32 PM
Bah.. You're just lazy Malc 
06-11-2010, 10:35 PM
hey guys i was wondering do pro 4 swaybars fit the cyclone?
06-12-2010, 12:40 AM
06-12-2010, 06:48 AM
Where would you guys recommend buying a complete hex screw set for the TC ? I'm having trouble finding a place on-line... also a complete bearing set would be good as well.... 
regular bearings, no more $90 ceramic sets for me... Thank you....
regular bearings, no more $90 ceramic sets for me... Thank you....
06-12-2010, 08:24 AM
06-12-2010, 11:29 AM
06-12-2010, 12:03 PM
06-13-2010, 06:12 PM
Tech Rookie
hello friends, I have a little problem with the rear differential of CYCLONE S, there is the possibility of putting the Differencial oil in CYCLONE S? My differential is always loosening.
Thx, this is my firist post.
Thx, this is my firist post.
06-13-2010, 10:00 PM
Tech Master
Diff oil won't work for a ball diff mate.
If it's coming loos all the time, check a few things:
1. Is the diff assembled exactly as per instructions.
2. Is the diff installed in the car the right way around.
3. Is the diff smooth when you rotate it by hand? it shouldn't be "gritty".
If all of those are OK, you may need a new diff nut.
If it's coming loos all the time, check a few things:
1. Is the diff assembled exactly as per instructions.
2. Is the diff installed in the car the right way around.
3. Is the diff smooth when you rotate it by hand? it shouldn't be "gritty".
If all of those are OK, you may need a new diff nut.