YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Thanks for the heads up. I hava a Kawada that has been sitting waiting for this to happen.

Christmas has tightned my budget for now. Hopefully it will still be available after the holidays are over.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Kits are still available. PM an offer if anyone is interested.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Just found this thread by accident. What great information and love all the photos. Please keep it going.

ECHOLogic

In need of a T-Bar for a 1/10 Delta Villian. Trying to refurbish one with a IFS Font End.

I also have a 1/12 Delta Super Spyder with a custom chassis made with Vintage Trinity Sparkle Graphite using a Team Associated L4 Front End.

camlchris

Hi, I have the Villian T bar and interested to trade with your sparkle chassis. Pls. send me PM. Tks

ECHOLogic

Hummm doesn't sound like a fair trade. Lol Sorry but I already found a source for parts. I did have A large panel I made two chassis and then tried to sell the panel a few years a go with no luck so I gave it away to good customer of the store I work at. I do have the first cut chassis but it does have minor splinters from the bit cutting at the wrong speed. The chassis is not cut to the match the original. It works with a last generation associated front end. When I get the time I'll post a picture on the thread Of the modified Super Spyder

Chris

camlchris

C car on the track with modern ESC & BL motor

camlchris

Testing SPC　on the track:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPsjTeco6fs


jpg.gif IMG_0202b.jpg (161.5 KB)

ECHOLogic

Here's a pic of a Delta Super Spyder that I modified several years ago. I do still have the original chassis, front beam, hubs and axle... Plus a few spare parts.

Chris

Bandit13

Hey guys. I'm restoring an old Bolink Renegade. I'm trying to locate a speed resistor. Anyone know how I might find one like this?

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

perhaps at a hobby shop where they race and or sell slot cars. your resisitor looks alot like the resistors that are used in slot car hand controllers.

Geno-Machino

Contact Rick at RJ Speed
I'd bet he was the guy who designed the Renegade during his time at BoLink. He may not have anything in stock but might be able to point you in the right direction.

sundevil67

Hi All,
I've decided to turn my 'shelf queen' Fantom into a runner. The car is in pristine condition, but since I've acquired an NIB version, I've decided to hit the road with this one. Anyway, I recall struggling with this exact problem back in the late 80s when working on my old Plazmas. There has to be a better way to adjust these tie-rods than sticking one end in a vice and twisting the ball-end with a pair of pliers. The brute-force method works, but when I'm done the ball-end looks like the dog tried to eat it. I just can't twist them into the right size by hand, it just requires too much force. I'm wondering if anyone's found a more elegant solution to share. I have several more to adjust.

Here's my chewed-up tie-rod:


Any advice appreciated!

Thanks.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Try reaming the hole slightly on the rod end and put a little grease on the tie rod. Then use a pair of dull old dikes to hold the rod securely by hand and stick an allen wrench through the eyelet to twist it onto the rod.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Whether or not its metric or standard, use a tap to cut the threads. Most hobby shops that handle Dubro products will have the tap you'll need.