xDeeDubYax

MIKE: On my car its a little less than 2 degrees of toe when using the circle and X3.0 blocks. These blocks give the car plenty of rear toe for carpet or high bite asphalt... but if you run on a normal low bite parkinglot, more rear toe could be better.

IMR: The drilling seems to have no negative effects on the upper deck, and there is room to remove the top cover for diff access, but just barely. Just be sure to use a new drill bit and go slow, so the cut will be smooth and clean.

- DaveW

DawgMeat1

3racing product's steering rack seem to sit lower the stock part, if you look you will see that the ball cup clears the main shaft

exint2

Just got my FT (5 days from Tower in the states to the UK!) reading through the instructions / set up and I've got to the bit about the Chassis braces and spline plate, now am I being thick or is it just not very clear???

MikeDeadly

Thanks Dee,
Well at the track i race at, ive seen 1/12th and even nitro cars traction roll, so traction is definitly high (it's sealed asphalt). Ill have to try my set up with those 2 blocks and see what happens.

Jeel

iTrader: (16)

No problems here.

bjspinner

iTrader: (22)

[QUOTE=exint2]Just got my FT (5 days from Tower in the states to the UK!)


Wish mine was that fast from tower been waiting since 25th of august when it was shipped

frog racing

Does anyone know what the maximum case size for the steering servo is? I am thinking about putting in the ne JR Z9000 High speed digital servo but have read that it is slightly larger than others in its class.

If it will not fit what is your recomendation for the steering servo?

Thank you,
Keith

bdcowell

iTrader: (1)

Well, I had one hole in the chassis that wasn't countersunk, but it just took a couple of minutes with a drill press and 82 degree countersink bit to fix it.

My willingness to fix it myself increased after I talked to someone at Associated and was assured they'd still replace the chassis if I messed up the repair. I'm happy with the kit and their service. It helps knowing that anything I screw up can be replaced with a trip to the LHS, which isn't true of all brands.

Brian

imr

A spacer underneath one of the steering posts (between the steering post and the chassis plate) was slightly thicker, so the servo saver was rubbiin against the top of the post.

macvolcom

iTrader: (5)

Done!!!!!!!!! Going to try it out soon.

WD40

iTrader: (8)

How are the shocks that come with the FT TC4? Are they any different that came with the FT TC3?

xDeeDubYax

MIKE: You might wanna try removing some of the washers under the inner camber link ballstuds as well, if you do have a traction rolling issue. You will have to use shorter threaded ballstuds than what is provided, the part # is ASC3981, and they are available, six come in a pack, and you would need four. Its a shortneck, short thread ballstud that will not let the threads hit the diff outdrives when you take washers out. The shortneck will allow the car to corner with the tires flatter, giving you good tire wear, great traction, and reduce sidebite, so the car wont flip. If you were running the Losi XXX-S hubs in the back of the car, you could also swap the front and rear hub ballstuds to the longer neck silver studs and reduce sidebite even more. Think of the link ballstud height as controlling sidebite, and the lower hingepin change as controlling the "rollcenter". You feel ballstud height more throughout the corner as the suspension is compressed (cornerspeed), and hingepin change moreso through, but not only, the transitions on the track (chicanes-moving from one apex to another through multiple corners). Using a paint pen and making a line across the width of the tire will show you tire wear, which should be almost flat, and let you know what to do. Maximum traction is gained with the tire being flat through the corner. Traction is friction, max friction is gained with the whole tire on the racing surface. The front tires should wear almost evenly on the outside edges before the middle (this is a mix of caster and camber/camber location, bumpsteer adjustments), and the rear should wear close to the middle of the tire, or 1/16" towards the inside of the tire from the middle, depending on the amount of rear toe you run. If you have to reduce your camber to more than 2 degrees negative to achieve this, then it is time to change the washers/ballstuds. Optimal camber, from my experience, is a little more than 1 degree negative F/R. You can reduce your camber adjustment to lose some sidebite, but foams soon wear and the change is minimal. You mainly end up with coned foams. Low bite tracks and rubber tires are a completely different subject.

Hope this helps...

- DaveW

xDeeDubYax

WD40: The shocks are the same blue threaded as the TC3. The light colored hard anodized ones you see on some cars are AE aftermarket. Like MACVOLCOM, he has the aftermarket AE threaded bodies with Yokomo bladder caps.

- DaveW

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Hey Dave, Can you email me. I would love to chat some about setups.

Bob

[email protected]

MikeDeadly

Thanks for the help Dee. But im running rubber tires on asphalt. You mentioned that this advice was for foams but i think i can translate some of it into a better rubber setup. Its an outdoor sealed asphalt track, and the only cars ive seen traction roll are the ones running foam tires. The electric/rubber guys have never had that problem. as far as my ball studs, im just running the long stud with no washers (shims, spaceers, whatever you want to call them), and 4 hingepin block shims on both in the rear with 2 on both in the front (no antisquat or kickup on either end). Every thing seems to be ok, but i cant wait to try this new "wider" rear toe block set up. If you have any rubber-asphalt advice id like to hear it too, you can never have too much information. Thanks
Mike