valk

iTrader: (13)

of course its binding. i just didnt think id have to adjust it every single time i tap something. it really has been that easy to throw off.
im also woried about the front upper arms being soft and throwing my caster off in such taps.
ill be trying some hard xenon plastics shortly. is it possible to get harder side links? i think part of the problem im having with the football is how easy it is to bend the sidelinks.
ah well. i have had the car since jan 2014.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

I typically re-do the damper tubes every 5-6 runs or so (probably overkill). Whenever I do, I will reset the football. Make sure you have it tight enough as I hit plenty of things and have only had it get bindey twice in 2 years.

Max K

iTrader: (26)

If the car handles different after a hit then usually the center pivot has moved. When you take any kind of hard hit you should always check your center pivot and reset it. To do it properly take your motor out, tweak plate, and damper tubes off the car. By this time you should be able to instantly tell if the pivot is bound up at all. Loosen and retighten the main 3mm screws attaching the pivot to the rear pod plate while holding the lower pod plate level with the main chassis. The rear should have free movement and full range without any clicking or binding. It should basically feel like an arm on a sedan. Free with no binding.

12th scale can be very touchy and frustrating if you don't know what to look for. Let me know if you have any more questions!

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

Different car but a good video on resetting the rear pivot.

http://youtu.be/-ct2L3KEkE0

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

This is a good video, but this method doesn't work very well for the VBC L12 due to the way the pivot mounts, which is opposite of most AE cars where the pivot ball is on the pod (and not the main chassis.)

Max's recommendation to hold the chassis plate and lower pod plate level while you re-tighten the pivot seems to be the method that works the most consistently. Just be sure to wiggle it side-to-side a bit after you have loosened the two side screws and before you tighten it back down to make sure everything moves around a bit to get re-centered.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Nice. Thanks for sharing this tip.

valk

iTrader: (13)

I tend to tighten the screws down just snug then pull both ends to stretch the links out/sest the pivot. Tighten a little more, pull, check for bind, repeat till screws are tight.
Of.course my.sidelinks might be worn out too ill change them tomorrow when I do the fill retweak ect. Its hard to confirm if the front end setup is good when I'm.fighhting with this heh. I.don't hit a lot in the infield. If ever its cause I dove into the sweeper too steeply so its usually a pretty good hit ha. I cut cut my corners pretty tight whevever possible. Scuff the body often.

Before.pivot got screwy, car was pretty nice to.drive. I could keep up with craig decently but my car got worse toward end of night where his got better heh. I have to drive rediculous aggressive to come close to blake/craig who barely let off heh.

I.guess its just practice.

valk

iTrader: (13)

car wasn't too bad tonight. easy to drive with lots of steering but i still dont have enough corner speed. most of the straight, sweeper, infield its good but there was a coat hanger section after a short straight i lost most of my time in. the car rotates super nice when you get off the throttle but i feel its scrubbing off too much speed doing so and doesn't really carve into it like some of the other cars.

not sure if i should mess with the front end or the rear.. you did mention the stock shock is too soft. maybe i should try putting a light touring car shock on there one night to see if stiffer fixes that problem. rear feels pretty stiff already with the stock gold and 1500wt oil..
but who knows.

stiffer side springs?

basically running your front end settings max, but i had to add a bit more camber to level the tires. the smallest tick of droop in the front, maybe 1 mm of droop in the back. crc 50s in the back.
i also tried the new crc double blue front tires.. i dont like them.. ill try them on the mod car but they were a little skidish in the 13.5 car. seemed pushy at speed but then i got a weird double steer at lower speed.
ended up at bf/gr but i might go back to mf/gr.

of course the layout gonna change and ill have to start all over again.

Max K

iTrader: (26)

Its not about the dampening being stiffer in the shock. That doesn't make the action of the shock that much different. The stiffest VBC Spring is the Black one. Ive never seen a Touring car shock on a 12th to be honest but i know a lot of people run the wildfire shock on the F1! If you don't mind spending $20 then pick up one of the hyperdrive shocks and put an AE Gold or Blue on it.

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1542

Double blue front is what we use sometimes when we want a little less steering in modified. But usually we are always fighting for steering so we stick with blue/magenta/pink fronts.

Double steer usually means that your dampening is too light. I re-learned this at snowbirds this year. I usually never run 30k in my modified car, but at this race i had to because the traction was so high and my car would double steer through mid-high speed corners.

So CRC 50 side springs are pretty light. In 13.5 I've been bouncing back and fourth between Speedmerchant 20s on the link and AE Silvers on the pod. I run CRC 45s on the link for modified to give you a comparison.

More Rear droop will give you more steering as well. Try to bump it up to 2mm over ride height.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

My new Silva HPS2 shock arrived yesterday.
http://muddslidemotorsports.com/hpshkired.html

Looks pretty good, but what is everyone using to attach it to the car? What ball ends are you using? Pics would be helpful as well, Thanks!

valk

iTrader: (13)

I've run a tc5 shock on a 5.1 before and it does worj. Though pancar springs aren't as stiff generally. But if stiffer is what I'm looking for, I have like 10 spare spec r shocks now and arc/yokomo springs 2.3 and up.
Ill try that this week at practice.
I like the vbc shock now that its airless. Smooth and pretty consistant. Maybe more spring options could be made available in the next revision?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

It would work, but do you really want that much weight up high on your pan car ?

valk

iTrader: (13)

I doubt my plastic shocks are appreciably heavier than stock. But why not try what I have to see if it gets what I'm looking for before spending more money?
My.racing budget is somewhat limited and split with full scale heh

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

Anyone?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I use AE's really cool Ti-Nitride ball studs, and the open end ball cups from the 12R5. I think they are used on their touring cars too. Just trim as needed to get the amount of droop you need.

-Korey