Originally Posted by mojo tom

I have to chime in.

I own a lot of 2wd and even if I was not interested at all by Kyosho cars when I get back to the hobby I went naturally to them because the plastic are just great, harldly broke, and because just about every aspect of the car seems very well thought out.
Ballcups never came off (unless a very big crash where another brand of car would have broke wishbones and caster blocks), diffs are the best by far (I run a diff 6 months with a Bfast kit) and shocks are just great.
I race 13.5 boosted so transmission got hit pretty hard on high grip.

So RB6. Just awesome. Since July I broke a front shock tower, a mid rear bulkhead (at the ball end location) and one front wishbone. Got a thread gone on a caster block but I used a too short ball end.
I'm not gentle at all, got a lot of crashes and our club track got a triple jump that is a car breaker.
10 months of very hard use, beside a very hard crash that cost me the rear bulkhead (used on the shortest position, that explain it a bit) and a friend running the car and hit the pipe metal hook at full speed costing me a wishbone I'm looking at a shock tower I broke two days ago. Extremely sturdy.
That means a huge price on parts I didn't have to buy so I'm seriously thinking this car price is rather competitive in the long therm.

Options parts.
I put Lunsford turnbuckles and screws from a previous car RB5 based as well as a set of Boca orange but other than that I race it stock (mid motor).
For my style of driving, alloy steering rack was a must (I broke twice the plastic one at the same race, never had issues after using the Exotek one).
I put old blue alloy hubs from my older K car, might have broke once a ball end thread.
That would be about it if budget is a concern.
I noticed quite some slop from the plastic rear hangers using metal bushing and put some delrin one and it was way better, still is.
Any car needs some slop, at least offroad cars. I noticed right from the build that Kyosho really improve their part fitment over the 5 series, just the right amount of slop.
I have to say the rear/rear hanger in rear motor format isn't as strong as expected so I might advise for that part if you run rear motor.
I did tweak the front hinge pins holder and bent the front brace. Went for an alloy block from Ghea and a custom machined brace.

Considering how happy I am with the car, I'm planning to add more options parts from Kyosho as I have to say they offered the least they could do in the kit. Plastic hangers, plastic steering, plastic hubs, rather thin non ventilated motor plate,... But I will be happy to buy those upgrades parts as I just love the car.

Handling wise, the mid motor car is just amazing, up to the best conversion offered for rear motors cars and that was very hard to nail.
Rear motor is more conventional but yet I felt very comfortable running the car the few times I did. Will do more as we have some races on dirt but I do believe the car is up to the best here too.

Three points to check after 10 months :
- Some wear on diff outdrives and CVD
- Rear plastic blocks slope (might have been too much use of metal bushing)
- Steering parts got some serious slop, mainly due to not shim the Exotek plate and wear from alloy to alloy friction (bushings/plate)

Now I'm eager to see what they could do on the ZX6 !

Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore

Ok how about this...
I need more stabity in the sweeper, it gets a little bit squirley mid corner, an wants to go into the wall. What do you guys suggest.?
When I was in midmotor configuration I could hold throttle all the way through and rail it.

Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore

I am running 30* block and 0* inserts . Also the tires are 1/2 worn barcodes with a whole rear stock open cell foam in em. I know alot of guys cut em to 3/4 before putting them in the tire.
I can get through the sweeper fine but it was seriously railing through full throttle when it was mid motor. I recently switched back to rear and that is really the only area I am missing. Maybe I was a bit spoiled with the mm for that section.

Originally Posted by aloksatoor

Built my second rb6 in mid motor. That thing is light with the mid motor parts for some reason. I just put titanium turnbuckles and aluminum cranks and rack in front. Rest is all plastic and it weighs around 1520 grams RTR (promatch IP shorty, tekin 17.5, hw 3, futaba low pro servo, sanwa receiver,16ga wire). Hope it drives as well as it weighs!!!!

Originally Posted by gelshocker

Hey guys, looking to upgrade my ESC on the 6:

HW3.1 or VTX10R-BE? Price not a consideration.

The HW has built-in on/off switch, but the Viper has better specs, lighter, smaller footprint and the BEC would support HV servos.

I'm going for the Viper, unless there are glaring issues I do not know of? Thanks,

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

Cool, if you have any questions or need help setting up your VTX10, let me know.