219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-16-2017, 05:27 AM
#5221
Tech Master
Question for you guys. My buddy has a Losi 8ight-E and 8ight-N, also a SCTe.
Every week when we race has dnf's because some breaks. weather it be something diff related, esc, motor, servo, etc...
Lately I haven't been able to run much and whenever I comment on him breaking stuff he just says its because he actually runs his stuff.
Now I know my Tekno SCT410.3and EB/NB 48.3 have both help up very good. I just now had my first real break (snapped a dogbone and outdrive is pretty mangled). But my diffs are bulletproof, a-arms are still good.... my Tekin esc/motor's feel like day 1, and my mks servo's are amazing...
Now he buys chinese electronics for the most part and they break constantly....
I was wondering how long do most of you think common parts like A-arms, diffs, shocks, etc should last. He has blown through diffs and pinions like candy... I feel like hes doing something wrong, but he won't admit it. I know that AE parts feel cheap and thin compared to my Tekno, and I feel like TLR is still decent quality, but he is replacing stuff on a weekly basis for the most part.
So if I could just get some basic wear and tear timeframes for common parts id appreciate it so I can talk to him about it. How many races would you say you get out of certain parts?
Every week when we race has dnf's because some breaks. weather it be something diff related, esc, motor, servo, etc...
Lately I haven't been able to run much and whenever I comment on him breaking stuff he just says its because he actually runs his stuff.
Now I know my Tekno SCT410.3and EB/NB 48.3 have both help up very good. I just now had my first real break (snapped a dogbone and outdrive is pretty mangled). But my diffs are bulletproof, a-arms are still good.... my Tekin esc/motor's feel like day 1, and my mks servo's are amazing...
Now he buys chinese electronics for the most part and they break constantly....
I was wondering how long do most of you think common parts like A-arms, diffs, shocks, etc should last. He has blown through diffs and pinions like candy... I feel like hes doing something wrong, but he won't admit it. I know that AE parts feel cheap and thin compared to my Tekno, and I feel like TLR is still decent quality, but he is replacing stuff on a weekly basis for the most part.
So if I could just get some basic wear and tear timeframes for common parts id appreciate it so I can talk to him about it. How many races would you say you get out of certain parts?
My SCT, and buggy I Usually rebuild with a full bearing kit between seasons. (SCT before going indoors, and vice versa) And replace parts as needed, which normally doesn't amount to much. My truggy is just now at the point where I may throw new hubs on, and I'm at the end of season 2 with it. I put new front arms on before a big race this spring, JUST to tighten things up. The ones I took off are still in my box of spares, because they can still be run.
Losi guys, from what I have seen, throw parts at their cars about every other week. Seems they slop out pretty quick.
I have a buddy that ran losi for a season, switched to AE briefly before switching to Tekno. Since he has switched to tekno, he keeps asking what upgrades...Still isn't use to the fact that the Tekno doesn't need anything for durability.
08-16-2017, 12:22 PM
#5223
Tech Fanatic
Do the people that constantly break AE cars use them as battering rams or something? Can't see any subtler way to accomplish that 
08-16-2017, 12:25 PM
#5224
The whole CST to wt conversion is tricky. I would say 35/30 or 37.5/32,5 should get you pretty close on oils for shocks. I also switched to 10-7-5 for diff oils, but recently tried a truck that had 10-10-10, and found it very easy to drive. I plan to have a separate set of diffs ready and built to swap in and out to try out for my next race.
I would take a look at the recommended indoor setup on teknorc.com for overall setup to start.
I'm usually in the mid 20's outdoors (22-23), and get pretty low indoors.
I would take a look at the recommended indoor setup on teknorc.com for overall setup to start.
I'm usually in the mid 20's outdoors (22-23), and get pretty low indoors.
08-16-2017, 01:21 PM
#5225
there's nothing wrong with associated , it is what it is . A light weight racing machine. Slapping 6s in it a running it into a wall will cause it to break. Tekno is very durable and good machine , but it's a heavy weght. Tekno and associated, different strokes for different folks
08-19-2017, 03:57 PM
#5226
What body are you guys running. I recently bought a body for another vehicle but don't see it lasting long on a tekno vehicle.
08-21-2017, 09:22 AM
#5228
Tech Master
And no SCT body will last very long....Unless you drive without crashing, or getting crashed into...which I don't see many doing that, so...
08-21-2017, 01:24 PM
#5230
Tech Master
08-21-2017, 02:52 PM
#5231
Also, most of us running indoor turf/carpet ran softer springs than we otherwise would have liked, to get appropriate ride height.
Bet you this chassis is stunning on carpet/turf with a proper setup with the new springs.
08-22-2017, 07:03 AM
#5232
Tech Master
I would imagine people will love it more, being able to run the stiffer springs, AND attain the ride height they want. I'll be going to turf in the next month or 2 on occasion, so can't wait....Plus try out my 2wd conversion..
08-22-2017, 08:15 AM
#5233
well I found what I think was the reason my daughter busted the diff cup. The screw going into the front hub carrier fell out of the bottom, so it let it flex far enough back that it must have popped the cup.
She needs a rebuild anyway so I am going to look into that probably today to get her vehicle ready for thursday.
She needs a rebuild anyway so I am going to look into that probably today to get her vehicle ready for thursday.
08-22-2017, 08:25 AM
#5234
Tech Master
well I found what I think was the reason my daughter busted the diff cup. The screw going into the front hub carrier fell out of the bottom, so it let it flex far enough back that it must have popped the cup.
She needs a rebuild anyway so I am going to look into that probably today to get her vehicle ready for thursday.
She needs a rebuild anyway so I am going to look into that probably today to get her vehicle ready for thursday.
08-22-2017, 10:58 AM
#5235
Yeah I remember one falling out on my old vehicle . It would be cool if they could have some sort of better retaining method though not sure how. something like another screw that butts up against it like how we hold in hingepins.
All in all though still good to see the vehicle take a beating. Its a tough sucker.
So, here is a question for those running carpet, for the new LF springs what are you find are great to start with?