219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-11-2017, 10:42 AM
#5207
Tech Master
Our oval has actually just moved, and the straights will be about 15'ish longer each side. It will be interesting because she will require gear changes in everything.
I am intrigued by your 2wd setup as well, my daughters want to race an indoor series this fall and there is no 4x4 class just a Pro 2 (unlimited motor). I like the idea of running different toe per side to help on the high bank, high grip indoor track.
Thank you.
First post, hooray!
Thank you.
First post, hooray!
And this is a power HD servo after 5 hours of use
stripped servo by Nicholas Simpson, on Flickr
servo 2 by Nicholas Simpson, on FlickrI run battery back in everything. I've never tried it forward though.
08-11-2017, 05:25 PM
#5208
I'm running my truck on an indoor tight medium grip with some dust on it as SCT is next to the last race of the round. I have all of the option parts suggested on the front page, I'm just not sure on the diff oils, it seems stock takes a bit to spool up and get the truck going. I don't have many oils as all of my 10th scale cars are TLR so all ball diffs and TLR oil. I did change the pistons to the 8x1.4 conical cause I like the way conical pistons work, and use TLR 35 F 30 R. I need to get the truck to get power to the wheels much faster then it is now. Suggestions would be helpful. Other then that and the nose dive issues I am having (just got to baby the throttle to correct in the air) the truck was very drivable, and managed 3rd place my first race with it against guys who have had the truck for over a year.
08-14-2017, 09:56 AM
#5210
Tech Master
I'm running my truck on an indoor tight medium grip with some dust on it as SCT is next to the last race of the round. I have all of the option parts suggested on the front page, I'm just not sure on the diff oils, it seems stock takes a bit to spool up and get the truck going. I don't have many oils as all of my 10th scale cars are TLR so all ball diffs and TLR oil. I did change the pistons to the 8x1.4 conical cause I like the way conical pistons work, and use TLR 35 F 30 R. I need to get the truck to get power to the wheels much faster then it is now. Suggestions would be helpful. Other then that and the nose dive issues I am having (just got to baby the throttle to correct in the air) the truck was very drivable, and managed 3rd place my first race with it against guys who have had the truck for over a year.
I would take a look at the recommended indoor setup on teknorc.com for overall setup to start.
I'm usually in the mid 20's outdoors (22-23), and get pretty low indoors.
08-14-2017, 03:15 PM
#5211
I finally bought the kit yesterday, it's on backorder from Amain. Good thing is I had a $50 off when you spend over $400 VIP voucher, so I got a stainless screw set for it aswell, taking it to just over $400. What's even better is that $50 USD is about $67 Australian $$
In a separate order I also got
- Proline pre-painted flotek body
- Traxxas Slash BF Goodrich wheels, the silver ones
- Hobbywing Max10 sc 120amp / 3660SL G2 4000kv motor combo
- All 4 aluminum suspension hangers
- Aluminum split centre diff mounts
- Aluminum shock caps, and pre-load
I've read about the Hobbywing 3660 G2 can splitting, but they were old posts, and I'm sure Hobbywing has fixed the problem. Probably just a bad batch
Can't wait to build the kit, it looks awesome
In a separate order I also got
- Proline pre-painted flotek body
- Traxxas Slash BF Goodrich wheels, the silver ones
- Hobbywing Max10 sc 120amp / 3660SL G2 4000kv motor combo
- All 4 aluminum suspension hangers
- Aluminum split centre diff mounts
- Aluminum shock caps, and pre-load
I've read about the Hobbywing 3660 G2 can splitting, but they were old posts, and I'm sure Hobbywing has fixed the problem. Probably just a bad batch
Can't wait to build the kit, it looks awesome
08-15-2017, 06:05 AM
#5212
Tech Master
I finally bought the kit yesterday, it's on backorder from Amain. Good thing is I had a $50 off when you spend over $400 VIP voucher, so I got a stainless screw set for it aswell, taking it to just over $400. What's even better is that $50 USD is about $67 Australian $$
In a separate order I also got
- Proline pre-painted flotek body
- Traxxas Slash BF Goodrich wheels, the silver ones
- Hobbywing Max10 sc 120amp / 3660SL G2 4000kv motor combo
- All 4 aluminum suspension hangers
- Aluminum split centre diff mounts
- Aluminum shock caps, and pre-load
I've read about the Hobbywing 3660 G2 can splitting, but they were old posts, and I'm sure Hobbywing has fixed the problem. Probably just a bad batch
Can't wait to build the kit, it looks awesome
In a separate order I also got
- Proline pre-painted flotek body
- Traxxas Slash BF Goodrich wheels, the silver ones
- Hobbywing Max10 sc 120amp / 3660SL G2 4000kv motor combo
- All 4 aluminum suspension hangers
- Aluminum split centre diff mounts
- Aluminum shock caps, and pre-load
I've read about the Hobbywing 3660 G2 can splitting, but they were old posts, and I'm sure Hobbywing has fixed the problem. Probably just a bad batch
Can't wait to build the kit, it looks awesome
You want 0 offset, so Losi scte/Tekno sct410
08-15-2017, 01:33 PM
#5213
08-15-2017, 01:38 PM
#5214
Tech Master
08-15-2017, 01:43 PM
#5215
So the offset is wrong, but do they fit ?? I'm only a basher, I'm assuming they will stick out from the body then ??
08-15-2017, 01:50 PM
#5216
those wheels will stick out too far. the concepts hazard +3 offset fit perfect...even though not technically roar legal
08-15-2017, 01:55 PM
#5217
Ok, I should of gone for the Proline Trenchers like I was going to, just trying to save some $$$
08-15-2017, 09:20 PM
#5218
Question for you guys. My buddy has a Losi 8ight-E and 8ight-N, also a SCTe.
Every week when we race has dnf's because some breaks. weather it be something diff related, esc, motor, servo, etc...
Lately I haven't been able to run much and whenever I comment on him breaking stuff he just says its because he actually runs his stuff.
Now I know my Tekno SCT410.3and EB/NB 48.3 have both help up very good. I just now had my first real break (snapped a dogbone and outdrive is pretty mangled). But my diffs are bulletproof, a-arms are still good.... my Tekin esc/motor's feel like day 1, and my mks servo's are amazing...
Now he buys chinese electronics for the most part and they break constantly....
I was wondering how long do most of you think common parts like A-arms, diffs, shocks, etc should last. He has blown through diffs and pinions like candy... I feel like hes doing something wrong, but he won't admit it. I know that AE parts feel cheap and thin compared to my Tekno, and I feel like TLR is still decent quality, but he is replacing stuff on a weekly basis for the most part.
So if I could just get some basic wear and tear timeframes for common parts id appreciate it so I can talk to him about it. How many races would you say you get out of certain parts?
Every week when we race has dnf's because some breaks. weather it be something diff related, esc, motor, servo, etc...
Lately I haven't been able to run much and whenever I comment on him breaking stuff he just says its because he actually runs his stuff.
Now I know my Tekno SCT410.3and EB/NB 48.3 have both help up very good. I just now had my first real break (snapped a dogbone and outdrive is pretty mangled). But my diffs are bulletproof, a-arms are still good.... my Tekin esc/motor's feel like day 1, and my mks servo's are amazing...
Now he buys chinese electronics for the most part and they break constantly....
I was wondering how long do most of you think common parts like A-arms, diffs, shocks, etc should last. He has blown through diffs and pinions like candy... I feel like hes doing something wrong, but he won't admit it. I know that AE parts feel cheap and thin compared to my Tekno, and I feel like TLR is still decent quality, but he is replacing stuff on a weekly basis for the most part.
So if I could just get some basic wear and tear timeframes for common parts id appreciate it so I can talk to him about it. How many races would you say you get out of certain parts?
08-15-2017, 09:35 PM
#5219
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I usually only break arms and bend hinge pins on the hardest shots to front end, like trying to triple a huge jump and lawn darting. Tekno keeps going though, just change out bent pins maybe damaged arm, sometimes pins are bent and arms are ok.
My diffs and shocks and what not never miss a beat
My buddy finally gave up on his AE stuff, and went Tekno. He was breaking and DNF'ing every race. And he is usually a top 3 finisher. Last Saturday was the last straw. He punted his AE across the lot after the latest DNF.
I LOL'd and said come join the Dark Side, so he ordered a Tekno
My diffs and shocks and what not never miss a beat
My buddy finally gave up on his AE stuff, and went Tekno. He was breaking and DNF'ing every race. And he is usually a top 3 finisher. Last Saturday was the last straw. He punted his AE across the lot after the latest DNF.
I LOL'd and said come join the Dark Side, so he ordered a Tekno
08-15-2017, 11:01 PM
#5220
