AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

For guys that crash more than they would like to turning a diff into a spool is a great alternative.

Tightening a diff full tight is not enough. If you really tighten it you could pop the thrust bearing circlip out, damage it groove and ruin an out drive.

To make a diff into a spool:

1. Disassemble a diff but leave the thrust bearing in the female out drive alone.

2. Remove the diff balls and clean all the silicone diff lube from the pulley, diff rings and out drive faces.

3. With thin CA glue header card stock to one side of the diff rings. Cut them out so that one side of the ring is faced with paper.

4. Reassemble the diff with no diff balls and the paper side of the diff rings facing towards the pulley. The paper takes up the space normally occupied by the diff rings so the width of the spool is correct.

5. Adjust the Spool/Diff just like a diff. Full tight then back off 1/4 turn. This will allow the spool to slip and dissipate energy during crashes. It will NEVER slip while racing, only during crashes.

The only disadvantage to the spool/diff is that it is heavier than the kit alloy spool. You will have to judge for your self what is best for you. For club races I run a spool/diff as blades will last forever and the out drive will never spread no matter how hard you crash (if the spool diff is back off 1/4 turn on the adjustment screw).

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

U2151 - Steel MIP CVDs $44.99
U3020 - Mi2EC Alloy CVDs $39.99
TNM2564W - TiR Mi2EC Alloy CVDs $39.99

The two alloy CVD are actually stronger than the steel units. You can bend a dogbone on the U2151's. I have not seen that done on the TiR or Schu CVDs.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

I've done it!
Schue CVD in a nice banana shape! It was a cool crash though!

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I didn't realize the alloy ones were cheaper. I've never run anything other than the alloy and the older Ti ones. Learn something new every day.

bad-monkey

who makes a complete screw set for the mi2?

PW

rcscrews had one for the Mi2, not sure if they still do.

A couple packs of the Take-Off screws work well

bad-monkey

thanks paul..
is there a website for either?

PW

http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/searc...rtname2=partno

roadrashracing2

I was also wondering if any one had a spring chart? I was also wondering if different c hubs and rear hubs fit it like, losi or ae?

jimnew

Brad,
Welcome to the friendliest most helpfull thread on R/C Tech
Which springs do you have?
Sorry, nothing else is a direct replacement.
You can PM me with any questions that you have. Also, if you need parts for your car and don't have them don't be afraid to ask
I'm glad that you chose Schumacher, you will be very happy as it won't break as easy as the others you had.

Later
Jim

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Drop me an Email to [email protected] and tonight I'll send you a spring chart that I made up with all the most common brands. It has their published rates as well as the actual rate. XRC Magazine did an article last year where they used a spring dyno and tested all the major manufacturers springs. I made a comparison chart from it.

jimnew

Me too please, Jon i always wanted a complete spring chart. Should have known you would have it
[email protected]
Thanks
jim

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I have all that stuff.

nemisis

how good is the mi2 ec i am curentley runnin a standard mi2 and want a new car scince i know a lot about the car i am wonderin if the ec is ant good

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

The EC is essentially an evolved version of the original Mi2. Everything we've been doing to the original car for the last 2+ years to make it faster has been put into this car. Improved suspension geometry, drivetrain efficiency, new shocks, etc... etc... If you're familiar with the Mi2, you'll have no problem working on or adapting to this car. It's just one step up the ladder from the original Mi2.