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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 05-01-2014, 10:14 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by CapTob
It has alot of tamiya hop-ups. But it could't help completely fixing the steering slop.
is the issue that it doesn't run straight on full throttle?

im new to this as well but one interesting thing I found was using rally blocks vs on road tires is that the difference in trim was +6 points. I assume only that the blocks are a tad wider hence the need for extra trim...

Have you also added shims? I've added them as well to the front wheels which reduces play...
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:12 PM
  #317  
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A little bit of steering slop is fine, I have a lot of cars and they all have some slop (even the top end cars) My TT02 has the aluminium arms and I shimmed it a little and I have very little slop now, its precise and sharp on the track.
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:17 PM
  #318  
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Okay thank you for the informations.

I bought the Carson steering set... but it was crap so I put back the stock one but with the Tamiya 54550 Low Friction Screws. Fixed a little play.

Then I noticed play on every tire. Basically, there is play between the shafts and the rear and front uprights. So I bought aluminum front and rear upright, but it still didn't fixed the problem...

So I bought nylon shims to put between the outer shaft bearing and the small metal "stick" that holds the bearings in place... Breaks my tire so that the car won't drive anymore... Put a lot of grease and now it's okay.

3 more posts and I will be able to show you nice pics of my yellow Lancia and every piece that has slop or play.

Thanks a lot guys. One day I'll fix this with your help.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:57 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by CapTob
Okay thank you for the informations.

I bought the Carson steering set... but it was crap so I put back the stock one but with the Tamiya 54550 Low Friction Screws. Fixed a little play.

Then I noticed play on every tire. Basically, there is play between the shafts and the rear and front uprights. So I bought aluminum front and rear upright, but it still didn't fixed the problem...

So I bought nylon shims to put between the outer shaft bearing and the small metal "stick" that holds the bearings in place... Breaks my tire so that the car won't drive anymore... Put a lot of grease and now it's okay.

3 more posts and I will be able to show you nice pics of my yellow Lancia and every piece that has slop or play.

Thanks a lot guys. One day I'll fix this with your help.
You can shim the axle movement with Tamiya shims you need Tamiya 53586 4mm Shim Set. You only need a few between the axle pin and the bearing. You can also put them on the inside of the axle at the base of the axle going into the inside bearing. you still want a little movement to ensure they spin freely.
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:21 AM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
You can shim the axle movement with Tamiya shims you need Tamiya 53586 4mm Shim Set. You only need a few between the axle pin and the bearing. You can also put them on the inside of the axle at the base of the axle going into the inside bearing. you still want a little movement to ensure they spin freely.
Thank you very much for the Tamiya shims Reference, I'll order them right now. As I told before, I put 9mm Nylon shims between the axle pin and the bearing but they really break each wheel.

Do you guys feel like there is play between the shafts and the front and rear uprights? I mean that the axle are slightly to thin for the bearings?

A few more posts and I'll show you with pictures and co.
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:59 AM
  #321  
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No, I have no movement between the axles and the bearings, the shimming will help.

remember though, a little bit of movement is fine, a car with no slop is usually binding or shows up any other minor imperfection in the rest of the components.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:53 PM
  #322  
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Default Has anybody purchased the TT-02D?

It comes without a body but that's okay since I'm not totally happy with the rally based body choices in kit form.
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:40 PM
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Has anyone upgraded their front knuckles to aluminium ones? After about 25 or so cartwheels/front flips, face plants of my tt02 I've finally busted my left front knuckle... i've opted to order the standard parts as they're cheap.. but thinking now maybe I should've gone aluminium ..

If so has anyone had issues of the aluminium knuckles bending under stress from bashing etc?
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:59 PM
  #324  
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Currently I have been using the reenforced plastic ones. These are on the a parts sprue for the TT02D you can buy the A sprue separately. It's well worth it as you get a lot of the key components (steering, towers and hubs) all in the harder plastic.

I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible.

If rallying then I would have no problem swapping the out to these parts.
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:59 PM
  #325  
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Currently I have been using the reenforced plastic ones. These are on the a parts sprue for the TT02D you can buy the A sprue separately. It's well worth it as you get a lot of the key components (steering, towers and hubs) all in the harder plastic.

I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible.

If rallying then I would have no problem swapping the out to the alum hubs.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:47 AM
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Wouldn't have thought they'd change the plastic just for d spec!
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:19 AM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by Djchow85
Wouldn't have thought they'd change the plastic just for d spec!
Only the A parts, they are very good.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible.
yeah i got the jaz ones. They were the cheapest and included the collars etc which the others don't!

I'm already eyeing a buggy for xmas... good learning experience since the tt-02 is my first!
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Old 05-14-2014, 09:20 AM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Only the A parts, they are very good.
Do you have a part number for those by any chance?
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:47 AM
  #330  
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Part number is 19000614

Saying that I have just broken one of the front hubs (Although I whacked a board at full tilt)

Basically it comes with harder plastic versions of the towers, upper bulkheads, Front and rear hubs (and spacers) and it also comes with the steering arms. So most of the key parts you want to be stiffer are there.

You will still need to file down the limiters on the front uprights if you want a lot of lock though.

I am now going to try the Jaz hobby hubs to see how they work.
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