18Likes"How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch"
08-08-2011, 02:25 AM
#91
Tech Apprentice
I rebuilt my diff a while ago according to this and this is the smoothest and most longlived diff i had yet,runs awesome! thanks again!
08-08-2011, 06:44 AM
#92
Tech Master
Thread Starter
This is awesome. I'm installing the TLR kit on my SCB and the diff would have been a mess had I not found this. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I rebuilt my diff a while ago according to this and this is the smoothest and most longlived diff i had yet,runs awesome! thanks again!
Racer53
08-09-2011, 06:41 PM
#93
Okay when I was putting my transmission together on my new Factory Team Sc10 and I posted this as a question on another forum:
Okay today I've been putting together the kit, I have gone through most of it along with the transmission (loose screws held on by thread lock). But now when I put the V2 slipper on with the spur, the whole transmission is binding at a point and gets a slight bit looser as the rotation goes through and repeats.
What I thought was first was that the bearing that I had tried to taken the seals off of, didn't quite go as planned as they were plastic, not rubber. I got them off finally on one bearing and sprayed it with Mootor Cleaner and Degreaser along with Moo-Slick. It felt as smooth and even smoother than the other bearing so I thought I was okay, but I didn't want to try the other one (too hard to do).
After a couple tries of taking off the slipper assembly and putting it back together I got it to go a little smoother, but it doesn't move freely enough for me.
Is it possibly that it is the bearing? Is there a trick to the V2 slipper, it is very tricky to get those gold pads on without them flying around.
As soon as I take the slipper assembly apart if gets smoother, weird..... I don't want to put too much stress on my motor....
My Slash transmission moves WAY more freely, so I don't really understand what's going on.
I'm confused.
Do you know what may be going on?
Okay today I've been putting together the kit, I have gone through most of it along with the transmission (loose screws held on by thread lock). But now when I put the V2 slipper on with the spur, the whole transmission is binding at a point and gets a slight bit looser as the rotation goes through and repeats.
What I thought was first was that the bearing that I had tried to taken the seals off of, didn't quite go as planned as they were plastic, not rubber. I got them off finally on one bearing and sprayed it with Mootor Cleaner and Degreaser along with Moo-Slick. It felt as smooth and even smoother than the other bearing so I thought I was okay, but I didn't want to try the other one (too hard to do).
After a couple tries of taking off the slipper assembly and putting it back together I got it to go a little smoother, but it doesn't move freely enough for me.
Is it possibly that it is the bearing? Is there a trick to the V2 slipper, it is very tricky to get those gold pads on without them flying around.
As soon as I take the slipper assembly apart if gets smoother, weird..... I don't want to put too much stress on my motor....
My Slash transmission moves WAY more freely, so I don't really understand what's going on.
I'm confused.
Do you know what may be going on?
08-10-2011, 07:46 AM
#94
Tech Master
Thread Starter
First thing I would do, is post this in the SC10 thread, as they will know a lot more than I do about this specific car...
But I will try and help as much as I can...
So after reading your post, it sounds like the tranny is free before you put the slipper clutch assembly on, correct???
If so I would imagine it's probably the bottom slipper plate rubbing against the tranny case...It seem like i've heard about other's having that problem a while back...Other than that go back and make sure you assembeled every thing correctly...There is a trick to the slipper pads...When you put the first one on[The one facing the tranny case]Hold the car to the side so gravity holds the pad down on the spur gear, then slip it up the shaft and hold it against the slipper plate...Once it's seated correctly turn the car back over and install the other...This has proven to be the easiset way for me...
Hopefully you figure out your problem, and sorry if I wasn't much help...
Good Luck, Racer53
But I will try and help as much as I can...
So after reading your post, it sounds like the tranny is free before you put the slipper clutch assembly on, correct???
If so I would imagine it's probably the bottom slipper plate rubbing against the tranny case...It seem like i've heard about other's having that problem a while back...Other than that go back and make sure you assembeled every thing correctly...There is a trick to the slipper pads...When you put the first one on[The one facing the tranny case]Hold the car to the side so gravity holds the pad down on the spur gear, then slip it up the shaft and hold it against the slipper plate...Once it's seated correctly turn the car back over and install the other...This has proven to be the easiset way for me...
Hopefully you figure out your problem, and sorry if I wasn't much help...
Good Luck, Racer53
08-10-2011, 10:11 AM
#95
I figured out what was wrong before I saw your post. It was exactly that, I tried a couple more times and it got way smoother.
Thanks!
I tried the Moo-Slick and it seems as if it is as good and or better than the 50 weight oil, all my bearings are treated with it throughout the car.
The Moo-Tor Cleaner and Degreaser works very well for cleaning up shock oil etc..... Used a lot. I did have a problem with the can, you could only spray the stuff out if you turn the can upside down or on its sides. I emailed Heath and 30 minutes later he replied and told me to send the Paypal invoice and he would have a new can sent out to me. I can keep the other can!
The Cow-Duster is amazing, very strong and feels like an actual air compressor. It's smaller and is heavy as the bigger and taller bottles.
The can is labeled lower than what it is, because he didn't count the fillers and propellants!
That's the best customer support I have EVER dealt with.
I listened to your instructions and built my transmission, the diff sounds soooooo much quieter than many of the racer's SC10s have! Great job!
Thanks!
I tried the Moo-Slick and it seems as if it is as good and or better than the 50 weight oil, all my bearings are treated with it throughout the car.
The Moo-Tor Cleaner and Degreaser works very well for cleaning up shock oil etc..... Used a lot. I did have a problem with the can, you could only spray the stuff out if you turn the can upside down or on its sides. I emailed Heath and 30 minutes later he replied and told me to send the Paypal invoice and he would have a new can sent out to me. I can keep the other can!
The Cow-Duster is amazing, very strong and feels like an actual air compressor. It's smaller and is heavy as the bigger and taller bottles.
The can is labeled lower than what it is, because he didn't count the fillers and propellants!
That's the best customer support I have EVER dealt with.
I listened to your instructions and built my transmission, the diff sounds soooooo much quieter than many of the racer's SC10s have! Great job!
08-10-2011, 10:51 AM
#96
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Cool, I'm glad you figuered the problem out
...
Good Luck, Racer53
...Good Luck, Racer53
08-13-2011, 12:42 PM
#100
Tech Master
Thread Starter
I use Nitro Force 2...But you could use some rubbing alcohol and pipe cleaner...
Racer53
Racer53
08-13-2011, 07:12 PM
#102
Increase the resistance of the pads making the slipper stronger allowing more power to hit the floor, if they are glazed they will slip too much meaning more power is lost in the slipper. of course if you are running on glazed pads and you have the slipper super tight you may need to loosen your slipper a little when the pads are unglazed or new as the old tightness might be too much.
someone correct me if i'm wrong please, still new to this also.
someone correct me if i'm wrong please, still new to this also.
08-14-2011, 06:34 AM
#103
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Increase the resistance of the pads making the slipper stronger allowing more power to hit the floor, if they are glazed they will slip too much meaning more power is lost in the slipper. of course if you are running on glazed pads and you have the slipper super tight you may need to loosen your slipper a little when the pads are unglazed or new as the old tightness might be too much.
someone correct me if i'm wrong please, still new to this also.
someone correct me if i'm wrong please, still new to this also.
08-15-2011, 05:11 PM
#104
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Guys I want to thank you for 3000+ views on Part 1...
I have been working on re-doing the videos, after watching them again the other day, and seeing the sound and video quality as well as the MoNoToNe voice
Anyway, the videos should be up in the next couple of days...They will have improved audio and video quality, as well as more personality...I'll let you guys know when they go live...
Thanks guys,
Racer53
I have been working on re-doing the videos, after watching them again the other day, and seeing the sound and video quality as well as the MoNoToNe voice
Anyway, the videos should be up in the next couple of days...They will have improved audio and video quality, as well as more personality
...I'll let you guys know when they go live...Thanks guys,
Racer53
08-18-2011, 12:25 PM
#105
Tech Master
Thread Starter
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Last edited by racer53; 08-18-2011 at 12:36 PM.